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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been changing disc pads and rotors for years but I've never done rear drums. With the front brakes, I've always felt there was almost no way to screw it up. Is there anything I can get wrong? What adjustments are there? Is that just for the emergency brake? How do I get it right? My only symptom right now is the parking brake is useless, but at 102k I figure I might as well change them as long as I have it apart. Thoughts? What do I need to know?
 

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If you've never replaced brake shoes before, I'd say there are all kinds of ways you can get messed up! :sorry1:

I have three suggestions:
1. Do some Youtube searches to find something comparable to your vehicle.
Pay close attention to any special tools that you will need.
2. Take some pictures before you start...both sides.
3. Buy your parts someplace where they are knowledgeable and will have a hardware kit (the clips, springs, etc.) in case you end up needing it.

:goodl:

Gerald
 

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Do one side at a time- if you get stuck, you can look at the virgin side. Pictures are a good idea too as G-1 suggested. You will also need several tools, a pair of brake spring pliers and the tool to release the hold-down springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are there any adjustments that I need to get right?
 

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The initial adjustment, which is accomplished by turning the wheel backwards and tightening the adjuster until you feel just a slight resistance. Also, check the wheel cylinders for leaks or rust, and replace them if necessary.
 

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What type of vehicle?
I agree, only do one side at a time, then you will always have reference if you forget what springs goes where.
I adjusted until they just start getting slight drag when turning drum.
I've done GM ones for almost 30 yrs, not hard once you've done it. Used to have front drums, talk about pains getting them adjust correctly so you didn't end up in ditch or in someones grill coming the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
02 Ford Escape, 2 wheel drive
 

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Older cars with drum brakes in the rear had to have the shoes with the shorter linings facing the front of the car...saw a 71 Buick my friend is restoring for a customer thad had them installed "backwards" on both sides!...(no wonder the brakes stunk!)..

Some newer vehicles dont have a "long and short" shoe,the linings are equal in length,so I guess it no longer matters ?..
 

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one side at a time, just remember that the opposite side of the car is a mirror image, not and exact image. hold your hands out in front of you and stick out your thumbs to give you an idea what i am talking about.

of course this is with old stuff the new stuff may be completely symmetrical:)

parking brake slack does not always equal shot rear brakes. cables stretch, lever pinion points wear ect...
 

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one side at a time, just remember that the opposite side of the car is a mirror image, not and exact image. hold your hands out in front of you and stick out your thumbs to give you an idea what i am talking about.

of course this is with old stuff the new stuff may be completely symmetrical:)

parking brake slack does not always equal shot rear brakes. cables stretch, lever pinion points wear ect...
You are right about the "new" stuff possibly being symmetrical. That is why I said to take pictures of both sides. I think it was one of my Chevy trucks that had the e-brake cable coming in from the left no matter which side you were looking at. I had always seen the mirror image thing and that upset my apple cart until I realized what was going on.

Gerald
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One thing I love about being in the south and not having to drive when the weather is bad is that when I pulled my drums everything looked brand new. A quick shot of brake cleaner and a few turns of the adjustment wheel and the e-brake is working perfectly again. The shoes still had plenty of meat on them, and the drum didn't look bad at all. $0
 

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It's only a pain if you have to do it!!

The 'One side at a time' is Excellent advice! The brake adjusters are opposite threads from one side to the other on most cars I've ever worked on! RHT or LHT.. **If they are reversed side to side the brakes may get looser and less effective every time you press the pedal if you reassemble wrong!!:eek:mg:

There isn't a ton of tools you need to do this job and the spoons and pliers/spring installers are available at any auto supply or even HF --> HERE

Caution- Wear a dust mask and try not to breath the dust from brakes.. It ain't too good for ya!:howdy:
 

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After seeing what a pain it is to install the tiny brake shoes many newer rear disc brakes have for the e-brake, that go into a miniature drum cast into the rear rotors ,I hope I never have to change any..watched my friend do several of those on various newer vehicles,and it takes a good 2 hours sometimes,just to jet the stupid clips and springs in them on correctly,its a real chore that requires every curse word you can remember..
 

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After seeing what a pain it is to install the tiny brake shoes many newer rear disc brakes have for the e-brake, that go into a miniature drum cast into the rear rotors ,I hope I never have to change any..watched my friend do several of those on various newer vehicles,and it takes a good 2 hours sometimes,just to jet the stupid clips and springs in them on correctly,its a real chore that requires every curse word you can remember..
i think i might have invented a few curses a time or two doing those:sidelaugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I ran into one of those little drum operations inside the rear rotor on my mother in law's Grand Marquis. The rotor was shot and torn up and I was concerned when it wouldn't budge coming off. Once I thought about it for a second I released the emergency brake and off it came.
 

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My first drum brake rebuild was an "experience"..I had a '63 VW Beetle,that needed a rear wheel cylinder,and probably new shoes too,as fluid was oozing out of the drum on the drivers side..I was 16,hadn't worked on cars much by then yet..

My neighbor who sold me the car was a VW enthusiast and had a garage with about every tool needed to fix one..

First thing I had to do,was remove the cotter pin from the HUGE nut holding the rear axle to the drum..that took about 2 hours,it broke off and was rusted tightly into the hole..finally had to drill it out..

Then I borrowed a large 3/4" breaker bar,the huge socket that fit the nut,and a 10 foot hunk of pipe to jump up and down on,till the nut came loose (torque spec was 225 ft lbs!)..OK,got the nut off..now the drum wont budge..tried beating on it from behind with a hammer,and feared I'd destroy it..pried on it with big screwdrivers,it was not budging!..

My neighbor told me "You need a puller to get them off sometimes,and I have one"--he lets me borrow it,and I set it all up,and start cranking on the nut to pull the drum off..finally after using a cheater pipe on the wrench,I hear a loud "CRACK",and the drum pops hree--SUCCESS!..but when I took it all the way off,the shoes,all the hold down hardware,and half of the wheel cylinder pistons fell to the ground..
I had no idea what went "wrong"..

Then I remembered !!..I had set the emergency brake TIGHT when I went to jack it up,because it tried rolling off the jack as I lifted the car up...so,the shoes were so tight against the drum,I litteraly ripped them off the backing plate,and bent it badly,and ruined the wheel cylinder ,which I had planned to rebuild instead of replacing,already bought the kits to do both rears!..:(

DUHHHH!..I felt really stupid that day...my 30 dollar wheel cylinder job turned into 100 bucks worth of parts...had to scour junkyards to find a good backing plate,luckily I came across a bug that evidently just had new brakes installed just before it crashed,so I bought everything off both sides for 50 bucks..

I learned early that some auto repairs should be left to real mechanics..as I age,I send more work to a friend,even though I know how too,and maybe could,do it myself..you really need air tools and a lift as you get older,and I dont have either of those..
 

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My brother had a kia Sephia. Actually it was my dads old work car and my brother got it off him. Needed rear brakes and he decided to do them himself. The rear drums as most imports do, had screws holding it to the hub. He ignored those screws because they would not come out and decided to break out a puller. By the time all was said and done, he had split the sealed hub assembly in half and thought that it could just get stuck back together.. The bearing hub assembly was about $100
 

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as Home Simpson says "DOGH!"
 
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