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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am new to the forum, first posting. I havea Wheel Horse riding mower model 1-0300 1971 I believe. The engine turns over and it rises, but when I turn the key back to the half way point which cause the mower (deck) to engage nothing happens. I was cutting the yard yesterday, made a couple of passes without any problem then suddenly the cutting stopped.

I am not what you would say mechanically inclined, though I have done a lot of work on it. I guess what I am saying is that when you give advice could you keep it in laymen terms? :thanku:

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I checked for wires, everything looks intact. Is it possible that the control behind the ignition is where the battery wires connect along with other wires is fried? If so, can I use any replacement do I have to order one fromm Wheel Horse? If there is a substitution, what would you recommend?
 

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At a minimum it requires a 12 volt test light and one that does not have batteries. These are powered by the circuit you are testing.

Today one can get a cheap digital DC voltmeter/ohmmeter and some have limited amp meter capabilities. If you go for one of those it may read AC voltage up to 250 volts which is handy around the house also. To test the stator output of the tractor's charging system it requires the AC setting.

AC= alternating current which is in the house and what your tractor produces. A rectifier/voltage regulator on the tractor turns the AC into DC current.
DC= direct current which is what the tractor uses.

Garry
 

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Jim,

Do you have a test light or a volt meter for testing?

Garry
That's going to be what you need to test for any electrical problems--and still cheaper than just throwing parts at something--

Track down all wires--look for a break, or bad connection (Remember how old these tractors are...)
Also check any fuses...
glenn
 

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If the battery is bad and not fully charged the electric clutch won`t work if you don`t have a meter and you got a Pep Boys they`ll check the battery for free, could also be a bad or corroded battery terminal or ground. Yeah check the fuse going to the clutch, only use the same size fuse if that needs replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the fuse it was blown, so I replaced it. I also replaced the switch - it looked like it burned out. The problem is, the drive will not engage the deck. The rest of the tractor works fine, I can drive it around the yard, all gears work - it just will not engage the mower deck. Please, ANY help is greatly appreciated.
 

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you can get a cheap meter for about two or three dollars.
theres a switch not working or the electric clutch is bad.
but we need a picture of the pto side of the tractor.
 

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Here`s a link to a PDF file on how to test your electric clutch, don`t worry about it being for Scag they all work the same. http://www.ganos.com/electricclutchtesting.pdf

Now while you have been using your tractor have you smelled any funny odors, like a acidic smell like a electric motor burning out smells like. If so that was most likely your electric clutch, some times if your electric clutch is adjustable try adjusting it, that may work if not then it time for a new electric clutch, they are not inexpensive. I had to replace one and it cost me over $250.00. But we need your model # not the 1-300 there is a data plate on your tractor there are numbers the even the serial #
 

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Jim it could be several things at this point
Bad ignition switch, wrong pto switch,or wired wrong, bad safety, electric clutch has failed or faulty wiring.
Like the others have said a multi meter will be your best freind at this point to figure it out. The wiring in these are fairly simple and easy to trace out.
Heres you wiring diagram. Let us know how it goes.

 

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Are there safety switches on that thing?? Anyone? If there are if one isn't working would that disengage the deck?

Good luck.
 

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On my GT14 the safety interlock is actually the pto switch and if not wired correctly or the wrong one it wont start/engauge pto. also in this system, power is supplied to the pto through the aux power outlet ( for us old guys it the cig lighter).
My thinking would be if the fuse blew and its at the beginning of the circut which includes lights/pto/aux outlet it could be any of the 3.
 

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You can replace the fuse that blows with a test light that does not have batteries. Hook the spring clip to one fuse holder and tester probe to the other fuse holder. As long as there is a load on the circuit the light will be lit. That means you will need to disconnect the lights and the pto clutch wiring as those loads under normal conditions will light the light. With those disconnected try moving the harness around in case the wire insulation is worn off somewhere and disconnect one connector at a time and reconnect until you get the light to go out. When that happens the short no longer exists.

Garry
 
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