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Discussion Starter #1
As most of you know I have a snapper 1650 with a stripped input shaft and coupler.
I went out and purchased a couple of 1/4" cobalt bits. I dulled my center punch trying to mark the coupler.
I don't know what I am doing wrong but I cant seem to barely scratch the surface on the coupler let alone drill a hole through it. The bit is sharp and not dulled.:dunno:
 

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As most of you know I have a snapper 1650 with a stripped input shaft and coupler.
I went out and purchased a couple of 1/4" cobalt bits. I dulled my center punch trying to mark the coupler.
I don't know what I am doing wrong but I cant seem to barely scratch the surface on the coupler let alone drill a hole through it. The bit is sharp and not dulled.:dunno:
the shaft is probably hardend steel it cant be drilled.
 

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butchs hobby drilled his. PM him for the details.
 

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The coupler isn't hardened, I simply center punched it and drilled both at the same time or while it was put together maybe I should say. I did have to use a good drill bit but had no trouble drilling through both with a good 1/2" drill. Needless to say use some oil as you're drilling. Don't make the hole too big, that weakens the shaft. I used a 700R4 valve body bolt-6mm-but a good heavy duty roll pin would work too. I used my 1650 that way for six years before I got around to changeing the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The coupler isn't hardened, I simply center punched it and drilled both at the same time or while it was put together maybe I should say. I did have to use a good drill bit but had no trouble drilling through both with a good 1/2" drill. Needless to say use some oil as you're drilling. Don't make the hole too big, that weakens the shaft. I used a 700R4 valve body bolt-6mm-but a good heavy duty roll pin would work too. I used my 1650 that way for six years before I got around to changeing the pump.
Great thank you.
I have put the 1650 on hold and have been working on the 1855..ordered a carb kit from Gary's..rebuilt the carb and did an oil change,added some missing nuts to exhaust clamps. Filled the float bowl and had it running for about 5mins, rear 3 pt hydraulics work. My fuel pump isnt working(external from carb)

I will get on that 1650 drilling project asap, I just picked up a blade for it, and have located a snowblower and tiller(pto driven) for the 1855..he wants $350..what's fair??
 

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I will get on that 1650 drilling project asap, I just picked up a blade for it, and have located a snowblower and tiller(pto driven) for the 1855..he wants $350..what's fair??
For both? Grab them!

This one popped up on eBay tonight. Just a (ahem) few miles south-east of you. It's actually for the 1655/1855 tractors. The MF4250 is for the 1450/1650 tractors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320795352287?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Hmmmm. That's actually closer to me than you............... but I already have one.

Make sure you get the PTO shafts with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow..they don't come cheap...

I'll try and get both for $200..see what happens.

And as far as drilling the coupler with my 1/2 skil drill and 1/4" cobalt bit it aint happening!..I tried 2 cobalt bits, titanium..doesnt even make a dent
..so maybe get some of those couplers with setscrews and a rubber planetary..try that..even weld it to the input....
 

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Even hard steel can strip out.
One sure way to drill hard steel is with a sharpened cement bit.
Go real slow when at the bottom of the hole or the bit will
snag and snap off...
 

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I gave $450 for my 4850 tiller 17 yrs ago when I purchased the tractor and felt that was a fair price for it. I have to suspect it's the drill bit you're useing is the reason for so much trouble with that hole. Remember, I said go slow and use a good drill bit. I got my drill bit set from the Snap-on Tool truck, they were expensive but they work. 1/4" is a little bigger than I'd go with that hole, 3/16" would be the biggest.
 

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The original price in Canada for that tiller was $1500 in 1977. An equivalent tiller today is still going to be $1500 - $2000 in Canada.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I gave $450 for my 4850 tiller 17 yrs ago when I purchased the tractor and felt that was a fair price for it. I have to suspect it's the drill bit you're useing is the reason for so much trouble with that hole. Remember, I said go slow and use a good drill bit. I got my drill bit set from the Snap-on Tool truck, they were expensive but they work. 1/4" is a little bigger than I'd go with that hole, 3/16" would be the biggest.
I will get my butt after that tiller then.
Thanks for the drill bit info. Will source a better one and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The original price in Canada for that tiller was $1500 in 1977. An equivalent tiller today is still going to be $1500 - $2000 in Canada.
Makes you kind of wonder how much the 1855 and 1650 were when new..not cheap..$1500 in 1977 was a lot of cash! I remember my Dad buying a new AMC Concord in Hamilton for under $4000 in `78.
 

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I wish that tiller were closer to the East Coast!

I just noticed the tines on that tiller are bolted to the rotating center shaft. I think I read that exact replacement tines were expensive or not available, but it seems that a generic tine could be found, cut and drilled to mate. I think uniformity would be important....Im not sure.

With some of this older equipment, as you look at it, you need to look at how to fix it...today or 3 years from today.
 

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Makes you kind of wonder how much the 1855 and 1650 were when new..not cheap..$1500 in 1977 was a lot of cash! I remember my Dad buying a new AMC Concord in Hamilton for under $4000 in `78.
I fell in love at the first sight of the MF1655 in 1977. Bought mine used in '82.

When new, the tractor alone was $3175. Add $175 for the 3PH. I got some other prices for options at the time, but old age and time have reduced my memory capacity. The 2 stage Pronovost snowblower that I got with mine originally cost $2000 in '77. Oh yeah, the 54" mower was about $1000, I think.

With all the attachments that the original owner had, I figure he paid about $11000 or $12000, 60" mower, 48" tiller, 48" 2 stage blower, 5' backblade, Johnson FEL and chains. I paid half that and didn't take the mower or the FEL ( I had one sitting in my yard and another on my MF12H at the time). The dealer told me the mower was a 60" which was an option for the 1855. My yard wasn't big enough and had too many obstacles for a deck that size.

The new cab was $600 in '82. Sold it 12 years later for $150. :banghead3 :banghead3

If I recall correctly, the 1855 was just over $3400 new in '77 for the tractor with zero options.
 

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hey slingblade here is a guy in alberta who is collecting these tractors maybe he has found enough that he might part out a machine or two! http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-ve...0-1650-1655-1855-for-parts-W0QQAdIdZ325591416
would love to find out what he has for machines. This spring I posted a similar add and one guy replied about the machine I have now. It had original 411 hours on it which I beleiv to be true becuse of the wear on the foot pedal abrasive covering. I got the machine with a tiller and 54 inch mower with two sets of mower drive pulleys for 1400.00. As for drilling the shaft you can aneal the coupler- heat it to red hot then let cool slowly. the slower the better put in some kind of insulation and let it sit over night.
 
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