[ZTT42]

Today I spent a couple of hours building roller chain for the front tires to help steering in the snow and ice. Let the air out, squashed em with a ratchet strap and put them on real tight. Man o man they worked like a dream - for ten minutes, then worked their way off. Those 4.80 x 8 tires are too arched in the center and I know they won't stay on, no way, no how. :crybaby:

Guess I'll go to plan B. I have some old snowblower chains that I can lengthen about 6 inches and hope they will work.

 

[CADplans]

Why not get some snowblower tires!!??

I have not had snow to try them yet.:crybaby:

 

[mrcaptainbob]

I have roller chain on the fronts on the HT-20. They will not come off no matter how hard I turn at any speed. And they DO grip! Don't know the chain number, it may be #80 or #100. Very stout. And when the tires are aired to their recommended pressure the tread sort of bulges either side of the chain. This chain will not roll off no matter what I do. It came off some old farm implement.

 

[TUDOR]

Are you plowing or blowing?

Hang some weight on the front of the tractor for when the implement is on the ground. If the implement harness is front mounted, as you push there is a tendency for the resistance to jack some weight off the front tires.

 

[scrat2]

This is the first year I put roller chain on my blower tractors front tires. I ran into the same problems as you did. I ended up taking out a link on each chain, put them back on and added five more pounds of air per tire. They've stayed on ever since. Just saying it worked for me.

 

[engine2quarters]

Same here, added abit more air than the 'factory' recommends. That is on the plow machine.
Haven't put the roller 'chains' on the blower yet. I've got more weight on the blower machine front end than the weight of the machine plus driver combined. Then add the weight of the snow.
I'm using old bicycle chain.

 

[ZTT42]

I think the chain would work fine if the tires were wider like on most GT's. My AC710 has 4.80 x 8 tires that are narrow and have a rounded cross section. I have gotten them as tight as possible by compressing the un-aired tires with a strap clamp and taking out links. The tires are just too stiff and the tread pattern can't grip the chains.

Are you plowing or blowing?

Hang some weight on the front of the tractor for when the implement is on the ground. If the implement harness is front mounted, as you push there is a tendency for the resistance to jack some weight off the front tires.

I'm sure this is happening to me. I am plowing and have to make a turn to drop the load at the end of the driveway. If I slow down by feathering the clutch, I can get it to turn if the load isn't too big or sticky. Mostly the snow load just makes it go straight. The roller chains solved this problem wonderfully, but they won't stay on for more than about 10 minutes. The drive has an ice base so grippier tires won't help much. I have some weights on the rear lift, and that probably helps lighten the front end, too. Maybe I will move them to the front and just use wheel weights on the rear.

 

[Tractor-Holic]

You should be able to get them to stay on,unless maybe your tires are so petrified thay wont make a "valley" for them to sit in when you pump them up...my brother races cars on ice covered ponds,and they use roller chain on the front tires--and go well over 70 mph around banked corners,and they dont come off...maybe the chain your using is too wide or something??..maybe using a strip of an old inner tube arounf the tire tread under the chain would help retain it ??..

I want to put roller chains on my plow and blower tractors tires..it does get aggravating when you cant steer,especially if your inches from hitting a vehicle or obstacle,and you have to keep backing up and trying agin,or not be able to plow around a corner,when it only wants to keep going straight ahead no matter where the front tires are pointing...
Tri-Rib tires would likely put an end to this...but I cant afford them..

 

[ZTT42]

Petrified is the correct word for the tires. They are pretty weather checked and not very flexible. I am using bicycle-sized chain, so if I can get it tight enough to dig in it might work. I don't think I can get another link shorter, but might give it another try. I need to get some more tie links though because it sprung them when the chains came off and I lost the itty bitty pieces.

 

[TUDOR]

If the tires are that far gone, I'd forget about adding roller chain.

Leave the rear weight as is and add about 50 lb to the front of the tractor. Plows aren't as heavy to transport as blowers and that much weight should still be manageable for steering effort with the plow up and it should do wonders with the plow down.

 

[engine2quarters]

Another 'trick' is to get the tires (and rims) warm before working on them. It makes them abit more flexible than if you work on them in the cold. If you can't get them near the wood stove, get out of the wind and into the sun. While waiting, sit down in the sun and start on your 2012 'tan'. The sun is good for the bones.

 

[ZTT42]

I decided to give it one more try. I got the tractor inside, warmed up, and went after it with a strap and ratchet. By working around the tire squishing and pushing and tightening, I was able to get another two links out of each chain. SUCCESS! The tires are now concave instead of convex and I tried plowing for 20 minutes or so (not much snow today) and they never budged. Sometimes you just have to get mad at it and show them who's boss. Thanks everyone for the ideas and encouragement :trink39:

 

[Tractor-Holic]

Aha,diamond tread knobbies!..probably the most difficult tread pattern to get a roller chain to stay put in,seeing they have no grooves like a typical saw-toothed front tire has...my brother uses a come-a-long to squash the tires inward using the wire rope on it,then puts on the chains as tightly as possible before joining the links with a master link,then re-inflates them to at least 32 psi...(car tires,I'd keep small tires like yours under 20 lbs ,especially if they are old and might pop!)..

I found an identical pair of those diamond tread knobbies at the dump's tire pile,4:00x8" with 4 lug rims,I think they may be off a Snapper rear engined rider...I grabbed them just before the attendant got them,he was putting all the rims & tires in the loader bucket and was going to haul them out back where we cant get access to them..

 

[ZTT42]

I modified a set of regular snowblower tire chains to fit, But decided they will rub on the frame, plow mount, drag link, and who knows what else. They are also intended to help with traction and braking - steering not so much. I am glad the roller chain is working. I think they will stay on now. The results for steering are fantastic!

 

[engine2quarters]

Don't do any sudden turns. Either the chain will come off the tire or you'll go one way and the tractor will go the other way.
Persistance pays off if you get a good night sleep between attempts. Even just getting fresh air will work.
Good job!

 

[ezliving4ume]

It sure wouldn't hurt to have at least a #40 roller chain. It wouldn't surprise me if the bike chain broke.

 

[peteleft]

It sure wouldn't hurt to have at least a #40 roller chain. It wouldn't surprise me if the bike chain broke.

Well that just answered one part of my question. Now for part two: What would be best? I was just looking at the TS stock of roller chain and guessed #35 would probably break. I'm going to put the roller chain on my Sears 16/6 with the original (style) ribbed tires.

And for part three: I have an asphalt drive. How bad does the addition of the roller chain mar up the drive when turning. I expect some marring and plan on yearly sealing to dress up and protect the driveway. My usual sealing schedule has been every two or three years prior to the tractor.

 

[ZTT42]

Don't do any sudden turns. Either the chain will come off the tire or you'll go one way and the tractor will go the other way.

I don't really need to do sudden turns, just get the snow to go where I want it.

As for the choice of chain size, I had a piece of chain I had saved from a garage door opener that got fried in a power surge. This arrangement cost me $2.38 for a couple of tie links.

 

[Tractor-Holic]

You'd have to be going along at a good clip in order to scuff the driveway with the steering chains---if there is any ice or snow left behind by the plow that will tend to decrease the chances of damaging the asphalt or the sealer,and actually will make the steering chains + traction more effective,it gives them something to bite into.....

I adjust my plows so they leave a half inch or so of snow on the driveway,to minimize chain damage to it...usually that thin a layer melts fast once the sun hits it anyway...
I used to scrape the snow right down to bare tar,but found that sometimes promotes black ice,and I'd rather walk on a half inch of snow than glare ice any day!...

 

[GT_80]

My dad did that for years on the front of his GT18 with the original Sears tires, but they were 16 6.50 8 tires- worked great! But they were much wider and he used standard twist link chain I think. I can't find the chains he used to use though- I think they got lost between my dads house and my brothers and me getting the tractor from my brother....