[Sears_ST]

I have a 1975 ST12 with original Tecumseh HH120 engine.

Can anyone tell me if this engine was equipped with a low oil safety shutoff?


Thank You,

Rod
Oriental, NC

 

[TUDOR]

Nope. They installed a dipstick so you can check the oil level before you start it.

The theory being that if you start with the proper oil level, driving through a blue cloud will suggest that the oil should be checked often, and if you see a black stripe on the lawn where the previous path was, maybe it's time to check for a problem.

If you don't check the oil, the smoke goes away pretty quick sometimes... then the engine stops. :hide:

 

[mcavvie]

Nope. They installed a dipstick so you can check the oil level before you start it.

The theory being that if you start with the proper oil level, driving through a blue cloud will suggest that the oil should be checked often, and if you see a black stripe on the lawn where the previous path was, maybe it's time to check for a problem.

If you don't check the oil, the smoke goes away pretty quick sometimes... then the engine stops. :hide:

Had a bolens 1556 with HH150 in it, every hour I used it, had to stop and check the gas and fill up with oil!

 

[rookie1]

Why do you ask if it has a safety? Is it not running or are you having problems with it.

 

[CHEVY&SEARS]

Yea, it's called the engine welding itself together. :fing20:

It's a good habit to check the oil frequently even if an engine has an auto shut off.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

A very few tractors were equipped this way.
Imagine crossing a highway and..........

Post the Sears 917.xxxxxx and possibly there is a schematic where one can see for sure.

I do recall seeing at least one schematic that did have one. I don't have a clue which model however.

 

[Sears_ST]

I've heard that the low oil safety shutoff switches on some Tecumseh engines can fail and cause the engine not to start, or to start and stop erratically even when full of oil.

I just wanted to be able to eliminate that as a possible cause for the engine cutting off periodically.

Run's fine for 5 minutes or 20 minutes, 2 hours or sometimes all day, but at some point it will just cut off like someone turned the key off.

It usually cranks right up again immediately and runs fine until it cuts off again later on.

It must be something electrical.

When it does cut off, it's off like a switch...no starving of fuel.

I use this professionally as my spray tractor.

Thank You,

Rod
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[CHEVY&SEARS]

I would check all your connections. I had a Cub Cadet that would do the same thing. The wire connection at the points was lose. Sometimes it fire, sometimes it wouldn't.

That's an awesome sprayer setup. Is it from TSC? What do you spray in it/with it?

 

[Sears_ST]

I've checked all of the connections but I'll double-check them again.

It was a TSC sprayer but it has been highly modified. The only thing still original is the spray tank and boom.

I usually spray 2,4-D (Trimec or Speedzone) mixed with atrazine.


Thank You,

Rod

 

[Hugh-SS/16]

Check the connections on your SSI unit which is the coil type part under the flywheel. No engine from that era (that I am aware of) will have that feature.

 

[TAHOE99]

.......Run's fine for 5 minutes or 20 minutes, 2 hours or sometimes all day, but at some point it will just cut off like someone turned the key off.

It usually cranks right up again immediately and runs fine until it cuts off again later on.

It must be something electrical.

When it does cut off, it's off like a switch...no starving of fuel.

Thank You,

Rod
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

Yep, your right, sounds electrical....exact same signs my OH160 did when the SSI module went out.....two of them, both did same thing, sometimes for hours, other times for a few mins before they cut out. I figured mine out by keeping a plug wrench on me, as soon as she died, I pulled plug and checked for spark...nothing. Let it cool for 5-10 mins, would start right back up until they both finally died and wouldn't start again.
There should be 3 wires coming from behind flywheel through a connector up to regulator and the middle wire going to the switch. When it dies, unplug that connector and see if you you get fire. If you do, then it's a switch issue and needs replaced. If still no fire, then most likely that module is getting hot and no working. Have to make sure if you replace switch you get correct one, the switches on these ground out the module when you turn it off. Wrong switch and you could posibly send 12 volts to module and burn it up.
Check all connections first, that's easy route.
There is also a small wire that should come up from under the flywheel in the front, that gives the module it's juice. Sometimes they get chaffed and ground out module. Yours possibly could be doing that when ya hit a bump shutting motor down, then starts back up when you try.

....I'm still thinking your module is on it's way out though, but if it is, there is solutions out there without paying $200+ for a used 35 yr old module on evilbay.

 

[Sears_ST]

Thank you very much!

I'll troubleshoot the electrical in that area.

Thanks again!

Rod
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC

 

[tafishman]

I just got myself a HH120-120199E SN#5260E. It was free, I don't pass up free very often. Can anyone tell me any thing about it. Are they dependable, what's the pro's & con's, and what year.


Fishing is the biggest waist of time there is, and God knows I love to waist my time.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

I just got myself a HH120-120199E SN#5260E. It was free, I don't pass up free very often. Can anyone tell me any thing about it. Are they dependable, what's the pro's & con's, and what year.


Fishing is the biggest waist of time there is, and God knows I love to waist my time.

It was built on the 260th day of a year that ended in 5.
All you have to do is figure out the decade.

 

[Sears_ST]

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread but I'm still having issues with this tractor cutting off sporadically...it's becoming embarrassing when a customer is watching.

....I'm still thinking your module is on it's way out though, but if it is, there is solutions out there without paying $200+ for a used 35 yr old module on evilbay.

Can someone direct me to a replacement coil setup I can switch to without dropping a bundle...

Thank You,

Rod
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[TAHOE99]

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread but I'm still having issues with this tractor cutting off sporadically...it's becoming embarrassing when a customer is watching.



Can someone direct me to a replacement coil setup I can switch to without dropping a bundle...

Thank You,

Rod
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

For a close to direct replacement to the original SSI module,.....

http://www.overnight-solutions.com/

If you want to convert to a battery-coil ignition....

Scroll down page and look at Mike Brooks email address for a complete kit

http://enginesandmagnets.com/id9.ht...tp://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1elect.htm

 

[Sears_ST]

For a close to direct replacement to the original SSI module,.....

http://www.overnight-solutions.com/

If you want to convert to a battery-coil ignition....

Scroll down page and look at Mike Brooks email address for a complete kit

http://enginesandmagnets.com/id9.ht...You, Rod Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC Oriental, NC

 

[Sears_ST]

There is also a small wire that should come up from under the flywheel in the front, that gives the module it's juice. Sometimes they get chaffed and ground out module. Yours possibly could be doing that when ya hit a bump shutting motor down, then starts back up when you try.

Is this the wire you were speaking of? (see pics below)...The insulation has come off of it...looks like it might have chaffed on the fuel line that runs inside the flywheel housing/cover...or maybe due to heat? This looks like it might be a ground wire because it terminates to the housing on the module...it is (was) a black wire.

That flywheel looks like it would be impossible to get off without a flywheel puller...and then I'm still not sure it would come off.

Thanks for your help on this.

Rod

 

[TAHOE99]

Yes that's the wire and no, it's not a ground. It is attached to a little stud that goes to inside of module and give the module it's juice to fire. If it's chaffed and grounding out, module will not fire, it's essentially a hot wire.

Flywheels can be a bear. I remove the nut, put a big 2 jaw puller on it and smack center of puller. I soak it down with some good penetrating oil. If it is real stubborn, put puller on it, crank down tight and walk away. Some times they will pop off on their own. Gotta be careful not to bust of flywheel fins trying to get nut off.

IF you want easy installation, go with the Overnight solutions, it's a pretty much direct bolt on and you do not have to remove flywheel to install. It's also keeps your current set up as is. All the others convert the system over to a battery coil which means you have to have a good battery and charging system to rum motor. As it is now, you can start tractor, unhook battery and it will run on it's own. Overnights will do the same.
They all cost about same price within $10-15

 

[Sears_ST]

Thank you very much.

Upon closer inspection that wire was heavily heat damaged as well as frayed. I cut as much of it out as I could reach and butt-spliced and soldered a new wire in. Wrapped it well with electrical tape although I don't thing that tape will last with all that heat.

I'll try that for a while and see what happens. I have several yards to spray on Monday.

If it continues to give me trouble I'll order a Overnight Solutions ignition.

Thanks again for all your help.

Rod
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC