I'd first try the tires unmodified. You might need nothing. :fing32: Every situation is different. Snow is deep, light, wet, dry, icy, blade is straight, angled...and so forth. You might try two light cuts instead of blasting a full width each time.
Here is a thread on wrapping the front wheels with motorcycle or bicycle chain.
Motorcycles racing on ice use screws from the outside. Someone pointed out it would lose some screws and the family car would find them. Very true, so studding from the inside makes better sense. If you need it at all.
Having handled snow with rubber tired loaders (2 and FWD), FEL/BH's, trucks and garden tractors with no front chains, I say you shouldn't need front chains for a gravel driveway. One small trick if your front wheels are not steering is to put more weight on them by lifting the plow slightly. Not enough to pass snow under the blade (or blower), but enough lift to put some of the blade assembly weight onto the front axle. Also, if you have the differential lock (if so equipped) engaged you won't steer as well in a tight turn...
In deep snow when you can't get that one extra pass without sliding off the snow on an angled blade... you have to resort to straight line pushing in a "herringbone pattern" with the blade set straight. Gosh, I'd love to see that much snow around here again!
Haven't had a need for chains on the front tires on any of my snow movers in 40 years of tractoring. Gilson 8/32 with snowblower, MF12H with snowblower, blade and FEL, MF1655 with snowblower and FEL and MF GC2310 with FEL and 4wd, all of which rarely lost steering control that could not be corrected easily with a different approach.