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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #1
I have my B80 ready to move some dirt. A friend had a new sewer line put in. Really tore up the yard! I have filled tires, wheel weights and chains on. Also, a snow plow. Am I going to have trouble with the plow tripping?
 

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I have filled tires, wheel weights and chains on
Looks like you got the traction part covered :D
I'd say if theres a weak link, it'll be the blade trip but I'm guess'n that won't be too much of a problem, good luck :D
 

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With my 211-5, I took small blade bites of heavy wet snow and it moved it alot better than taking larger or full bites. Keeping the blade at a right angle to the tractor puts all the pressure on the plow mechanism, that is designed for it. Putting the blade left or right would stress other connections.
Full blade height loads could pose a problem, as well as with rocks. Initially, push with the blade partially off the ground. Then go back, and complete the push.
Final backdragging may not work since the plow doesn't have much weight to it.
Slow and even push. Don't forget to STOP before your front wheel(s) fall into the trench. Been there, done that.
Have fun. Have patience.
 

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Please get us some pics of it working. slkpk
 

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UI'd say yes,I used my Bush-Hog tractor to backfill my garage's foundation,and it's blade didn't have a "trip" feature,it was solid mounted,but it wanted ro "trip" anyway,and would stop it dead in its tracks a few feet after I'd lower tthe blade..it had a push frame that went all the way back to the rear and hooked on the lower pins the 3 point hitch had near the axle tubes..

I ended up tilting the blade way back at the top, so it was a lot less likely to dig in and jam,by using less washers where it pivoted on one side of the frame ,where the plow was pinned on..but I decided to use my 4x4 truck & Fisher plow to do the bulk of it,and the Bush Hog to get in the places my truck was to big to do,it took too long using the garden tractor as a bulldozer..I had no traction problems with AG tires and no chains,it was the plow wanting to buckle under that was the biggest problem I had--using the lift lever at the right time was the way to make it work best,had to be quick and man,my arm ached for a week after a day of doing that!..
 

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i've used my b-60 to push dirt several times over the years, and tripping has never beeen a problem. as mentioned before, take smaller bites and keep it off the ground on the first pass, then finish with it lowered to the ground you're going to have some real fun doing this!
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #8
Okay!!! We're expecting more rain for the next few days, so the ground should be soft enough. I'll be sure and take photos.
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #11
I didn't dig the trench! (That's how rumors get started.) And it is piled on the trench. I'm not talking about plowing mud. I just don't want to push hard, dry clay. I'll show pics of the job before and after. Privided the B80 will create an after. :D
 

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Piled on the trench...make sure that it has been tamped down, removing all the air holes during backfilling. It will tend to sink in in time. The rain will help.

Pushing with the B80 will be more fun than hand shoveling, anytime.
 

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So myour plow does not have a way to lock it down so it does not trip?? Mine has a hole drilled in the pivit bracket so you can insert a clivis pin, and lock out the trip part. Is there a place in the hinge where the two parts cometogher where you can drill a hole, and insert a pin?
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #15
No, no lock out. No place for one. If it needs it, I can use a piece of 1/4" steel w/ 2 holes in place of one of the springs.
 

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When we first moved into our house 20 years ago, I did a lot of "landscaping" with my old 312-8 WH. I used the plow to move and grade problably 60 yards or more of fill and top soil. With wheel weights and chains, I never had much problem with traction or the blade triping unless I hit a big rock. I usually would keep the blade square and cut about a half blade of dirt off the pile an move it to where I needed it. If you angle the blade, the tractor may get pushed sideways as resistece increases. Also, if you have it, install the downpressure link in place of the lift chain (assuming the B lift mechanism is like the old C series). I didn't have one at the time, but it would have helped to keep the blade from riding up at times.
 

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As per the owners manual, the blade has four pin holes for the springs. The top hole is the most aggressive position to prevent tipping. Then when you have it all pushed around you can put the springs in the bottom hole wich helps back dragging.
Take 1/4 to 1/2 blade fullls and you will have no problems.
(Except when you run out of dirt to play with):sidelaugh
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #18
Also, if you have it, install the downpressure link in place of the lift chain (assuming the B lift mechanism is like the old C series). I didn't have one at the time, but it would have helped to keep the blade from riding up at times.

Good tip! Probably would help plowing hard pack in the winter, also.

As per the owners manual, the blade has four pin holes for the springs. The top hole is the most aggressive position to prevent tipping. Then when you have it all pushed around you can put the springs in the bottom hole wich helps back dragging.

I wondered how those holes worked. Thanks!
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #19
Well! This turned out less than good!:Disgus:

The tractor has the guts, but the plow just doesn't have the weight to dig in. Even with the springs in the top holes. We had an inch of rain, but the clay is still rock hard. I have no doubt I can plow snow or gravel or top soil, but not clay. The doufuss who did the dirt work, didn't save the topsoil to put back on. He just shoved it in the bottom of the hole.

So, on to plan B. I have a guy bringing a Bobcat in a day or so.

Here are a few pictures of the B80. I did scrape up enough loose dirt to fill that hole by the front steps.
 

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