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Discussion Starter #1
the
NEWDISC1.jpg
was running good a month ago, sorted out a few issues a no start, a valve adjustment.

she starts but when letting clutch out she dies

09 snapper rer w/ 12.5HP intex difficulty w/ adjusting brake/clutch I put clutch cable back exactly like previously. what I did was tighten the clutch cable thinking it was the brake safety switch that was preventing ignition. which trurneed out to be a a switch issue.

to be honest I don't know what I was adjusting brake or clutch.

while in neutral Mine doesn't have park,I think the pedal has to be held in place halfway and the yoke should be parrael to land this adjustment is w/ collects attached to cable.

then pedal is all the way down and locked still in neutrel the adjustment is adding/releaseing tension on the cable under engine. two differnt ways to adjust the single cable is confusing to me.

what I did was when in neutrel brake locked adjusted the clutch so basically I ddin't adjust brake w/ collects so brake never got adjusted all I did was effectively adjust clutch incorrectly because the brakes needs to be correct beffore the clutch is adjusted.

I never touched any of the collect of the brake adjustment thought why it was fine before.

am I understanding this procedure as a 2 step, correctly?
thanks for any tips
 

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Not sure of your "series" but must be fairly late , You might have the brake set too tight ,and kills the engine when trying to engage ,The clutch cable is adjusted with shims at the brake/clutch pedal.
2458759
Scan_20200523 (2).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my snapper is a 2009 model

all I adjusted was the cable in the back. I believe this tightened down the brake so the safetey switch would contact, I,ve observed over the years having to press extremely hard on brake to get iginitio)

I put this cable I tightened back to where it was using dirt as a guide this adjuster is basicely very close to not much more tightening due to cable strech.

I'll try to loosen the brake an report back. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
please look closely at the image I post.
image taken 6 years ago when I purchased and swapped new disc. in major improvement not hard to install.

do you notice the amount of slack in brake cable I never mearsured it's adjustment at the tubes end speced at 3/4"
will attempt to duplicate the slack in image.

also I never removed the brake pedals rubber pad so the ferrots were unafected.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
update:when in neutral I press brake pedal half way and the yoke is parrel to ground.
secondly I removed one of the cables ferrot still dies.

I release about 1/8" of tension at the adjuster she still dies when letting off clutch/brake. in both 1st gear and reverse.

look at the amount of slack in the transmission cable 1st image is neutral second in 5th seams like alot of slack I never noticed since ownership 6 yr ago.
red snapper season opened last friday which is a big deal for deep sea fisherman like myself around here.

I can't go until the lawn is cut.

at the ten minute mark jims cable appears very tight w/ zero slack then he tightens more.
slack in trans cable.jpg
 

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please look closely at the image I post.
image taken 6 years ago when I purchased and swapped new disc. in major improvement not hard to install.

do you notice the amount of slack in brake cable I never mearsured it's adjustment at the tubes end speced at 3/4"
will attempt to duplicate the slack in image.

also I never removed the brake pedals rubber pad so the ferrots were unafected.
please look closely at the image I post.
image taken 6 years ago when I purchased and swapped new disc. in major improvement not hard to install.

do you notice the amount of slack in brake cable I never mearsured it's adjustment at the tubes end speced at 3/4"
will attempt to duplicate the slack in image.

also I never removed the brake pedals rubber pad so the ferrots were unafected.
please look closely at the image I post.
image taken 6 years ago when I purchased and swapped new disc. in major improvement not hard to install.

do you notice the amount of slack in brake cable I never mearsured it's adjustment at the tubes end speced at 3/4"
will attempt to duplicate the slack in image.

also I never removed the brake pedals rubber pad so the ferrots were unafected.
It could still be electrical , The "rider presence switch" shown in photo might still be involved, basicly it by-passes the seat switch when the pedal is fully depressed so the engine can easily be rope started standing up. it might start and then be killed when the bypass is released, I believe yours is electric start and really doesn't need the bypass ,but there's sometimes dead batteries etc. From what I can tell your mower is an early series 23 these were built around 10 years with some changes later. A feature of this forum is a "RER manuals" section downloads are free. you would need the earlies 23 parts manual (no revision shown) .a "operators manual" is also shown ,which gives minor maintenance tips. There's a "service manual" but it's for earlier mowers (series 4.5.&6) but a lot of the drive parts are still the same.
update:when in neutral I press brake pedal half way and the yoke is parrel to ground.
secondly I removed one of the cables ferrot still dies.

I release about 1/8" of tension at the adjuster she still dies when letting off clutch/brake. in both 1st gear and reverse.

look at the amount of slack in the transmission cable 1st image is neutral second in 5th seams like alot of slack I never noticed since ownership 6 yr ago.
red snapper season opened last friday which is a big deal for deep sea fisherman like myself around here.

I can't go until the lawn is cut.

at the ten minute mark jims cable appears very tight w/ zero slack then he tightens more.
View attachment 2458833
I believe that cable is the "no mow in reverse" cable ,and keeps you from shifting to reverse if the deck is engaged. I just replaced one on mine. The main clutch cable runs from the pedal down the main tube to the arm on the yoke. Then there's a spring from the yoke to the rear of the main case. The motor is supposed to run if you lock down the pedal and no weight on the seat. Then sit down on the seat and release the pedal and mow. try sitting down before releasing the pedal, if it runs then its still something in the "safety" system .Per the forum rules we are not supposed to suggest any safety system be dis-connected or disabled even for test.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
yes it's electric start and pull w/rope it's 2006 model (I've never been able to start w/ rope when I pull I yank the mower up off the ground) intex 12.5HP, yes I'm always seated during startup whenever I get off like to empty the bagger she dies at 2-3 seconds has always done this always cranks afterwards.

I wouldn't ask to how to bypass whatever is killing her. but would like to know so I can mow.

note the previous owner must have deleted the reverse no mow switch because since purchase I always been able to mow in reverse, I never knew there was this feature built in.

I realy need to ffix myself I no longer have the chevy express I bought her home in. I called a repair place they want $60. to pick it up $50. to diangnose then jack me some more for some more on parts.

can you post a image of you'res for comparison .

according to Jim my clutch and brake control cables are properly adjusted.
Thanks for advice I'm becomeing farminal w/ the snapper.

edit: I confirmed the year as 2006 my first riding mower 2006 rear engine snapper w/ 12.5HP briggs and straton model #7800105

edit2 I'm proud of myself for getting her to run now I want to mow.
 

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There are 3 "switches" and a "Module" . They don't want the mower "running away". If it won't start with the seat un- occupied and will with the "pedal locked down" it's probably the seat switch. The other switch (pedal or rider presence) bypasses the seat switch when depressed The system works by grounding the engine magneto if everything isn't in place and the right position. The "pedal switch" is mounted under the main case and actuated by a tab on the yoke. p,s,: the "pedal switch" is the white one in your photo and the seat switch is under the seat. You can't bypass the seat switch by unplugging it as the plug grounds when unplugged. The 'no mow in reverse" is actuated by the cable on the R/H side near the "shift quadrant. sorry I can't help more. but they would just delete my post,

p
 
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