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Discussion Starter #42
While I’m waiting for the steering parts to arrive I decided to do some more cleaning last night. I decided to focus mostly on the motor. While cleaning I found what had been causing a buzzing rattle that was coming from the engine area.... I have a sheared off bolt head that holds the left had side tin on. I’m not sure what the best approach will be for removal but I started by soaking it with Kroil last night. I’ll continue to make sure it stays soaked for the next few days until until I get a chance to address it.

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Discussion Starter #45
Just saw your post, yes, try a screw extractor. Left handed drill bits are helpful too.
Sheldon
Sheldon, Thanks very much for the confirmation. I've had that bolt soaking for days now. It has a jagged lip on it so as a test I gave it a very light counter clockwise tap with a punch and a hammer and there was a bit of movement. I'm going to let it soak for the rest of the day and see if I can unscrew it tonight. I may not even have to drill it I'm hoping :tango_face_grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Well, I managed to get the broken bolt out of the cylinder head. Thankfully, it did not require any drilling or easy outs. I was able to carefully spin it with a punch and a few taps of a hammer. Once enough thread was exposed I was able to wind it out with my fingers.

I'm still waiting for the steering rods, ends, steering arms, and pivot tube to come in the mail. Will report back when I get them in.

Pete
 

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Good for you getting the broken bolt out! That's a big bullet dodged!!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Good for you getting the broken bolt out! That's a big bullet dodged!!
Thanks Mikey. I learned my lesson with my 816. I had a frozen exhaust bolt on that one and managed to break the exhaust manifold trying to get it out :tango_face_crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #49
With some great help from Sheldon I was able to get the sloppy steering fixed by upgrading the steering components to 18G spec parts and replacing the worn axle pivot tube.

I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends and added grease seals sourced from McMaster Carr and new Gravely oem tie rods and steering arms. The job turned out to be a little bigger than I expected when I found I had to drill out the existing 3/8" holes in the steering weldment arms to 1/2" to accept the larger bolts for the inner tie rod ends. It involved removing the entire weldment assembly which I found was much easier to access from up top by removing the fuel tank. Being able to see down past the fuel tank also helped seeing the position of the arms after reassembly to aid in final tie-rod/toe adjustment. The left hand steering weldment arm seems to protrude forward a bit further than the right. I'm not sure if this is the way it came from the factory or it had some sort of shunt over the years that caused this. It does seem to create a slightly different angle where the tie rod ends attach in the middle but the toe is good and there is no binding so I'm inclined to leave it alone.

The worn axle pivot tube was a beast to remove. I was able to just tap a worn one out of my 816 a few years ago with a large socket and a hammer. I quickly found this method was NOT going to work on the 16G. I put the axle up on my 15 ton press and had to use a lot of force to push the old one out. Once the old one was out I was able to clean up the hole in the axle with some emery cloth and the new tube slid right in without any problems.

While I had the whole front end apart I decided to replace the needle thrust bearings on the underside of the axle to king pin weldment surface. I'm not sure if this was necessary but the bearings were less than 10 bucks for both so I figured I might as well replace them while I had easy access.

Every thing is back together and things are working beautifully. The steering is snug and smooth. I took the tractor around the yard a few times and the result is very noticeable.
 

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Great job, glad you got it all worked out.

Now, just replace those worn out Turf Chief tires with some new Turf Master tires, which have a more rounded profile, and you will think you have power steering......

Notice the difference in the profile and tread shoulder:



Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Those tires look great Sheldon. They are next on my to-do list.

What size did you go with for the front?

Also, as I was digging through all the prior owners services records and receipts and I saw an invoice with an inner tube listed. Is it common practice to use tubes on these machines?




Great job, glad you got it all worked out.

Now, just replace those worn out Turf Chief tires with some new Turf Master tires, which have a more rounded profile, and you will think you have power steering......

Notice the difference in the profile and tread shoulder:



Sheldon
 

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Pete,

I stayed with the stock 16-G tire size on the front, 16x7.50-8. They are plenty big enough for anything you will ask the tractor to do. And, the combination of the more rounded tread, smaller size and longer 20-G steering arms greatly reduces steering effort.

They did not come with tubes, I don't like tubes. Tubes allow water to get in around the valve stem and rust inside of the rim.

I consider a tube the last resort to repair a flat in an otherwise good tire.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Sheldon,

I'm ordering Turf Masters for the front today. You mentioned you replaced your tires with the stock size of 16x7.5-8. I took a quick look at the current tires on mine before ordering and noticed they are 16x6.5-8. Maybe the originals were replaced with smaller tires at some point? I think mine is an earlier model.... maybe they originally had smaller tires? Just waned to confirm.

Thanks!!

Pete

Pete,

I stayed with the stock 16-G tire size on the front, 16x7.50-8. They are plenty big enough for anything you will ask the tractor to do. And, the combination of the more rounded tread, smaller size and longer 20-G steering arms greatly reduces steering effort.
 

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Sheldon,

I'm ordering Turf Masters for the front today. You mentioned you replaced your tires with the stock size of 16x7.5-8. I took a quick look at the current tires on mine before ordering and noticed they are 16x6.5-8. Maybe the originals were replaced with smaller tires at some point? I think mine is an earlier model.... maybe they originally had smaller tires? Just waned to confirm.

Thanks!!

Pete
I believe the earlier 16Gs (and maybe 18Gs, too) were 16x6.50-8 and the later ones are 16x7.50-8. The switch was around the time they went to electric over hydraulic lifts. I have two 800 series tractors, both use 6.50s. My three 80s era 16Gs have all had 6.50s, too. I just got a later model electric over hydraulic and it has 7.50s I have every reason to think are original. The 7.50s are all mounted on a wider wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Hmmmmmm. If the 7.50s are on a wider wheel I'm probably forced to go with the 6.50? I could probably source some wider wheels but not sure if the end result would be worth the effort? Maybe so? Thoughts?

Pete



I believe the earlier 16Gs (and maybe 18Gs, too) were 16x6.50-8 and the later ones are 16x7.50-8. The switch was around the time they went to electric over hydraulic lifts. I have two 800 series tractors, both use 6.50s. My three 80s era 16Gs have all had 6.50s, too. I just got a later model electric over hydraulic and it has 7.50s I have every reason to think are original. The 7.50s are all mounted on a wider wheel.
 

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Pete, no, I did not increase the front tire size. That was a typo on my part in the earlier thread, sorry.

BUT, there is a big difference in the profile of the old Turf Chief tires that GRAVELY supplied in the early 90's compared to the new Turf Masters I installed.

Again, I stayed with the 16 x 6.50-8 tire, but in the new Turf Master. The original Turf Chief is no longer made.

About the rim widths - about 1989 they increased the width of the front rims on the Professional G series tractors. BUT, that has no effect on tire size choice.

Earlier 8000-G and early Pro G tractors had the older narrow front rims. BUT, even with the narrow rims, 12, 14 and 16 HP tractors came with 16 x 6.50-8 tires and 18 and 20 HP tractors came with 16 x 7.50-8 tires.

That remained the same later as all tractors got the wider rims but tire size was split by HP the same as before.

Either tire will fit either rim. Being a 1995 tractor, mine has the wider rims, and orginally being a 16G came with 16 x 6.50-8 tires. The wider rims are deeper to the outside, increasing track width slightly.

I stayed with the smaller tire, even after upgrading to the 20G steering because it reduces steering effort even more. The smaller Turf Master tire, with its rounded profile, combined with the greater leverage of the longer 20G steering arms and the reduced friction of the lubed tie rod ends has noticeably reduced steering effort compared to when my tractor was new with the square edge Turf Chiefs, and the 16G linkage.

The smaller tires are more than adequate from a load carrying standpoint, and foot print is a function of load weight and tire pressure, not tire size.

I did increase my rear tire size, splitting the difference between the two sizes GRAVELY used. I went with 23 x 9.50-12 and are very happy with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Hello all,

It's been a while. Business has had me travelling quite a bit this year.

I need to get the 16G prepped for pushing snow this winter. I just ordered new front tires. I know from past inspection that the front wheel bearings are worn pretty bad. What all do i need to replace?

Also, the front wheel weights are in rough shape. I intend to prep and paint. I haven't painted anything the shade of this 16G yet. Does anyone know of a spray can that's close in the local hardware stores?

Hope all are well.

Regards,

Pete
 

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WOW As a new 16G owner, this has this been a great and fun string to read through! I intend to go back and re-read most of it again. I've gotten a lot of info from it.
 

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Also, the front wheel weights are in rough shape. I intend to prep and paint. I haven't painted anything the shade of this 16G yet. Does anyone know of a spray can that's close in the local hardware stores?

Hope all are well.

Regards,

Pete
Ace Hardware Banner Red. Not perfect but very close. Also nice and cheap. I have used it for making several old accessories look good. Front mount brackets. Wheel wights. Even rusty footrests on one of my 16Gs.

At four bucks a can, what's not to like?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/spray-paint/hobby/17005

 
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