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I think this will be the next modification I do to the 12v under the hood. These twin ram systems are a pretty controversial subject it seems but they distribute air more evenly across the intake plenum vs. having a single factory opening. It's been found the sixth cylinder runs a little hotter than the others and the twin ram is supposed to flow more to the back. The Pusher system increases piping by .5" and should compliment the bigger Mishimoto intercooler and forced induction mods as well. More air pushed effectively is never a bad thing and hey, it looks pretty bad under the hood too. :tango_face_smile:



Pusher 3.5" MEGA Twin Intake System 1994-1998 Dodge Cummins 12v





Interesting take on intake temps. I bet it would help!


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Just got a really good deal a few months ago on this brand new 2015 Audi Q7 TDI. Basically a 3-4 yr old new (71 miles) vehicle with full new warranty, etc... Was caught up in the diesel emissions crap with VW. We both love driving it.

Beautiful! I love vw diesels!

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Discussion Starter #263
This is what you do apparently when you have too much time on your hands. BTW, gonna aim for a good cold start vid this week. It's supposed to get down in the 20s (F). Post your winter diesel cold start videos for fun!

 

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Yes it is much happier. I think it was down to about -10 that night.
Guy I worked with had an old Power Stroke, think it was a 7.3 NA, when he would start it at work below 0 fogged the whole parking lot.
It's name was Ol Smokey
 

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Anyone else but me tempted to put two 4D semi batteries in their diesel pickup ?..

My truck will need batteries ,the two Duralsts in it were used when I bought it in 2003!--they still start it OK when its above 40 F,but the past few months I've had to leave the charger on them when I let the truck sit a few days..
BIG batteries like a group 31 will fit in the trays,and are actually less expensive than the "correct" group 78's cost,I'm tempted to go with them..


The glow plugs sap down the batteries before they even get the load of cranking the starter ,with 15W-40 oil that's like mud at temps below freezing..

Starters take a beating in diesels,I'm on my third one on my 6.2 GMC--the one in it now is a newer gear reduction one off a 6.5 Turbo,but unless you have two fully charged ,large enough batteries to crank it over for 30 seconds at full speed on a cold morning,the voltage drop can fry the starter..
I've learned to give up cranking as soon as you hear the engine's cranking speed slow down,it ain't gonna start unless its whipping over at full speed...by then the starter is hot enough to fry eggs too..

I have a manual glow plug switch and use 60G AC glow plugs,haven't had much luck with them lasting though--it starts better with this setup,but the terminals rot off the glow plugs in 2-3 years and I've had a few fail in less time than that..one broke off in the cylinder while I was driving,I thought it spun a bearing!..evidently the remains got crunched up and spit out the exhaust--I cant imagine that did it any good,that cylinder probably has a very dented up piston top and head now..but it seems to run as good as it ever did..
 

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Discussion Starter #268
Anyone else but me tempted to put two 4D semi batteries in their diesel pickup ?..

My truck will need batteries ,the two Duralsts in it were used when I bought it in 2003!--they still start it OK when its above 40 F,but the past few months I've had to leave the charger on them when I let the truck sit a few days..
BIG batteries like a group 31 will fit in the trays,and are actually less expensive than the "correct" group 78's cost,I'm tempted to go with them..


The glow plugs sap down the batteries before they even get the load of cranking the starter ,with 15W-40 oil that's like mud at temps below freezing..

Starters take a beating in diesels,I'm on my third one on my 6.2 GMC--the one in it now is a newer gear reduction one off a 6.5 Turbo,but unless you have two fully charged ,large enough batteries to crank it over for 30 seconds at full speed on a cold morning,the voltage drop can fry the starter..
I've learned to give up cranking as soon as you hear the engine's cranking speed slow down,it ain't gonna start unless its whipping over at full speed...by then the starter is hot enough to fry eggs too..

I have a manual glow plug switch and use 60G AC glow plugs,haven't had much luck with them lasting though--it starts better with this setup,but the terminals rot off the glow plugs in 2-3 years and I've had a few fail in less time than that..one broke off in the cylinder while I was driving,I thought it spun a bearing!..evidently the remains got crunched up and spit out the exhaust--I cant imagine that did it any good,that cylinder probably has a very dented up piston top and head now..but it seems to run as good as it ever did..
Have you tried a block heater?
 

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A cold start on mine would be boring to watch.
 

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Mine used to be an exciting cold start, now its boring as well. After two winters of wondering wtf was wrong, finally narrowed it down to the compound intake grid heater relays. Replaced them and she barely can tell its not summer time.
 

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Have you tried a block heater?
The truck has one,it's the heater hose type that isn't very effective though--the one in the block from the factory had its cord cut off,the engine came from a salvage yard and they just cut it--those type often leak too,so I did not try splicing a new cord to it..might not even work anyway..

I have left it plugged in overnight and it only seems to heat the coolant in the heater hoses and core,not so much the engine--it has still balked or refused to start a few times despite being parked in my (cold) garage and the tank heater plugged in--all it did was waste $$ on electricity..(this was when it was below 20 above F )..

Another thing--what good is a block heater,if you drive somewhere and have to park it long enough to get completely cold again,and there is no outlet available to plug it into ?..even my friends didn't like the idea of me jacking up their electric bill just to "maybe" help my truck start..

Semi's use a propane powered version,that makes more sense to me,but I'm not about to get one for this truck..despite it having only 7 out of 8 glow plugs working (one refuses to come out and I refuse to bust it off trying to remove it,I have attempted to get it out several times,gave up)--it usually starts OK as long as the batteries are fully charged..
 

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You could try just getting a new cord for the block heater. Normally they make it so you can just plug a new cord into the block heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #274
Here's a 29 degree F cold start and short walk-around from this morning. The camera went out of focus after I set it down. I'll do another next year when the mornings are lighter again and you can see more.

 

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Here's a 29 degree F cold start and short walk-around from this morning. The camera went out of focus after I set it down. I'll do another next year when the mornings are lighter again and you can see more.



https://youtu.be/36yO_KdKyMo


No drama there Austen! I never saw our work Dodge cold as someone drove it home.


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Here's a 29 degree F cold start and short walk-around from this morning. The camera went out of focus after I set it down. I'll do another next year when the mornings are lighter again and you can see more.

https://youtu.be/36yO_KdKyMo
You can do better than that! Need a 0 degree cold start without the heating grid working! You know, keep us on the edge of our seats...

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Discussion Starter #277
Yeah, nothing too over the top. I was thinking about doing a grid heater delete at the same time I do that Pusher system but I think I'll keep it to help reduce any cylinder wash on the really cold starts.

BTW, watched this interesting video Banks just put out yesterday and no it's not about the diff covers. A lot of folks on forums despise his products for different reasons, but that aside, it's hard to dispute facts when they're put to the test.

 

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Would love to have another diesel powered truck. I ordered a 86 Chevy K5 full size blazer with the 6.2 diesel w/auto the lowest gears I could order it with as I was using it to pull my car trailer with.
At about a year old the posi let go so when replacing it I went with 4.11 gears front & rear with stock 31” tall tires and this made the truck a lot better to drive but nothing like a gas powered trucks. At just about 100K and needing a full exh system I went with a Gail Banks exh system hooked to one of his turbo kits. Now this made the truck drive just like a gas powered one and a lot of fun to drive. Well at 16 years old, 230K on the clock, the body needing work like floors put back in for the 3rd time, A/C not working and needing a 2nd injection pump rebuild it was time for a new truck to pull my car trailer. At the time if you wanted a diesel you had to come up with 5k more over a gas one and diesel fuel more than gas price I went with a gas truck/suv.

Now that I moved south and older trucks don’t rust out like up north I will be looking for an older P/U to haul stuff with and if I find one with a diesel great other wise I may look into a Cummings 4BT swap as my brother in cali has done a few swaps and loves them.
Dave ----

Don't mess around with a 4bt go all out like I did and put a 12v in https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cummins-conversions-shop-talk-tools-fabrication/2313754-84-k5-blazer-12v-47re-build.html
 

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Nice Austen! Too bad you couldn’t tried our cold start last Wednesday, -30°f.


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