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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2005 Craftsman DGT6000 tractor with a 27HP Kohler engine. While I am cutting grass the engine starts to cut out or stall and then comes back. It has never stalled but it seems like the condition is worsening. I thought it was due to the kill switch underneath the seat.

Once in awhile when you slide to one side of the seat the tractor will begin to stall. It is very similar to that type of sound but now it is happening when I don't slide to one side or hit a bump, etc.

I have not noticed, but it may only occur when the blades are engaged. I usually don't ride it around much unless I am cutting. I can go test drive it without the blades engaged and see if it happens.

I am wondering if there could be a loose wire or switch going bad that would make the engine want to start to stall.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks, MR
 

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Discussion Starter #3
[I sent a picture link in your message box that shows how to test/check if the switchs are not working right./QUOTE]
Thanks, Ill check my message box.

I made a typo error in the first post, the tractor is year 2005, not 1995. No matter, I just realized you can edit.
 

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Fuel filter may be starting to get clogged.
It would be more noticeable under load when the governor opens up the throttle plate in the carb and the engine requires more fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
[Fuel filter may be starting to get clogged./QUOTE]
Bill, I put a new fuel filter on about a month ago, while changing the oil.

There are only two switches that I can find, brake switch and seat switch.

The brake switch is working of course as it needs to be engaged for starting.

The seat switch must be working OK, as I just test drove it and the stalling does not occur when the blades are not engaged. I used a jumper wire on the seat switch with the intention of driving the tractor with blades engaged to see if the stalling would occur and therefore eliminate the seat switch. However the jumper did not work. As soon as I took my foot off the brake the engine would begin to stall. I don't understand how the seat switch works, it seems like it should be simple on/off switch by sitting on the seat and a jumper should bypass it.

Does anyone know why the jumper cable would not bypass the seat switch?

I am not sure what switch txsteve was testing in the photo he sent me in my message box, it looks like its under the seat and he has a jumper in a connection, but I don't see a switch anywhere. My tractor setup does not look like his in the photo.

The DGT6000 is model 917.2760890 and I can not find any other switches in the diagram than the seat and brake switch that would shut down the engine. If anyone knows of anymore please let me know.

Of course there is the ignition switch and the blade engage switches, which are working, so I am thinking there could be a loose/corroded wire in the wiring leading to the blade engage switch. Or perhaps an in-line fuse that is going bad.

If anyone has any further suggestions, I would appreciate it.
Thanks, MR
 

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"The DGT6000 is model 917.2760890"
You have an extra digit. Post the correct number so I can make sure I look at the correct schematic.

The PTO switch is also a safety switch.

Your seat switch may have simply gotten more out of adjustment or worn etc.

Did you use the genuine Kohler filter? There have been reported "incidents" where using a different filter has resulted in similar symptoms.

The fact you WERE having problems when sliding in the seat points to the seat switch being a bit "more" out of kilter in some manner.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bill,

Sorry, model is 917.276080. I looked at the schematic again and found an operation presence relay , part no. 109748X, which the website states that stops the engine when you leave the seat.

I cleaned some terminals and an in-line fuse that I don't believe has anything to do with the seat. Without taking out the battery/battery plate and removing tie connectors it is hard to follow the wires.

I found that the wire going to the seat switch is supposed to be secured by a tie clip and the wire harness was not in the clip, so i secured it. That could have been the problem.

I cut more grass and did not have one problem. My wife cut some grass and said that it happened twice, but for very short instant and believes it is because may have hit a bump and slide her to one side of the seat.

My guess is that it would be the safety switch under the seat , rather than the relay. It may just need to be more secure in its place, so I either need to buy a new switch or maybe there is an adjustment on the metal bracket that it fits into, so that the contact is solid when you are sitting on it. I will continue to monitor it.

I am not sure where the PTO switch would be, unless you are talking about the deck blade engage switch on the dash. In order to engage the blades, you pull the knob on dash because it is electric.

The filter I got is not a genuine Kohler. I went to automotive store and the cross referenced it in their system. However, I know I was having this problem prior to the change of the filter, I just didn't realize it. I thought it was all because I was sliding on the seat when I hit a bump, but then realized it was beginning to happen more often and at anytime.

Right now I am inclined to believe it is an adjustment too or worn seat switch. I am going to try to make sure the switch is secure in its slot before I replace any thing.

I would appreciate you looking at the diagram and suggesting what else it maybe.

Thanks, Mike
 

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I am not sure where the PTO switch would be, unless you are talking about the deck blade engage switch on the dash. In order to engage the blades, you pull the knob on dash because it is electric.
:duh::duh::duh: thats the pto switch u pull it out on the dash
 

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I certainly don't see an OPR in the schematic!

I've heard of some people actually having to use a shim on their seat switch because the plunger travel/adjustment was so minimal.
IF your wife is lighter than you, that could explain things, since she seems to have the problem occur more often. Or, she simply might "sit different".
 

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its not recommended by the site. but take a wire put connectors on either end unplug the seat safety switch plug the wire in. now some machines wont like this and will refuse to fire up but its worth a shot. start it up and mow with it if it still cuts out you got a problem else where. this will tell you if its exactly the seat safety
 

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its not recommended by the site. but take a wire put connectors on either end unplug the seat safety switch plug the wire in. now some machines wont like this and will refuse to fire up but its worth a shot. start it up and mow with it if it still cuts out you got a problem else where. this will tell you if its exactly the seat safety
Maybe you should look at and UNDERSTAND the schematic before you make recommendations like this?
 

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Try moving the seat adjustment more forward, especially if one of you is short. This will put your butt further back in the seat, and if it's the seat switch that's causing the issue, you'll notice an improvement.

A good test is to just fire it up in the driveway, engine the deck, and then sit there. If there's no cutting out just sitting there, with the tractor not moving, wiggle around in the seat and see if you can get it to cut out. If you can, focus your attention to the seat and seat switch assembly and how they function together. If there's still no problem, I'd start thinking in terms of, "what's bouncing around while mowing/moving that's killing the ignition." Maybe it in the relay, maybe in the connections to the relay, maybe the wiring at the engine, or inside the engine fan shroud, etc. When I've had one doing this, I've set something heavy in the seat, and run the engine w/ deck engaged, hood removed, and gone around pulling and flexing the wiring, feeling if the relays are getting too hot, pulling/twisting the fuse, etc. until I've duplicated the problem....or not duplicated the problem, and then gone on to further diagnostics from there.

Just had one yesterday that was all burned up inside the fuse holder and the old fuse. Even putting a new fuse in didn't cure it because of the damage to the contacts. Wound up giving the metal tabs on the new fuse a slight twist, and that cured it. Had one a few months ago that had a bad section of wiring harness where the wires went into the side of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally Posted by craftsmanmowerfreak
its not recommended by the site. but take a wire put connectors on either end unplug the seat safety switch plug the wire in. now some machines wont like this and will refuse to fire up but its worth a shot. start it up and mow with it if it still cuts out you got a problem else where. this will tell you if its exactly the seat safety
If you are talking about creating a jumper wire to bypass the seat safety switch, I already tried that. The tractor started, but soon as I took my foot off the brake the engine died. In a previous post, I stated that I tried this and I still don't understand why that would not work. I would be interested in knowing why. It appears that seat safety switch is more than just an on/off switch.

However, I do think I found the problem. The seat switch snaps in and sets between two metal plates (spring loaded) which compressed the switch when you sit on the seat. I noticed that one of the nuts that secures the plates/bracket together was not threaded in as far as the one on the opposite side. I snugged up both nuts which pulled the plates closer together.

I was concerned that I could over tighten, so once tightened, I started the engine and lifted off the seat and the engine started to stall. This tells me everything is working fine and most likely the loose nuts were causing to much play and the switch was not being compressed all the time and bumps and turns would cause it to open. I will test it out next time I cut the grass.

Thanks to all and especially Bill for your help.

Mike
 

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The seat switch grounds the kill wire (M terminal of the key switch) to KILL spark.
Closing the switch KILLS spark, since it grounds it.

Look at your schematic.
On the lower right is a "truth table" that tells what connections are made (or not) in the various switch positions.

Many people assume the ignition is powered by 12V to the coil. That was the case when engines still had battery/breaker point ignition systems. They went out of fashion before most the posters (apparently) on this forum were born.
The "newer" engines just use a magnet on the flywheel that induces a magnetic field in the coil. When it gets strong enough, it discharges through the spark plug.

Think of a walk behind lawnmower. Does it require 12V to run?

Just to add-
The seat switch may be NO or NC. It just depends on how it's implemented. There's probably a dozen different ways. Some do provide 12V to an Operator Presence Relay that might be hooked to other relays or ??
When they first introduced seat switches, one would simply unplug them to disable. So, the engineers had to try to stay one step ahead.....
 

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Just to be clear I know that some of these do require 12v in order to have spark......those with the igntion advance modules, for example. But normally, no, they don't require 12v to fire the plugs, but they do require that the kill wire(s) attached to the coil(s) not be rubbing and shorting out against the engine, shrouds, or tractor frame.
 
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