I just use grease to hold them in place while assembling. That's on the F's, I'm assuming the DF has loose conrod to crank bearing like that.
So you use like a #2 bearing grease on the crank and individually stick them on or lap the paper over and the grease will pull them off the paper backing? Am I conceptually on the right track? (Part #5 in diagram)I just use grease to hold them in place while assembling. That's on the F's, I'm assuming the DF has loose conrod to crank bearing like that.
EXCELLENT. Any thoughts on my parts relacement list..? Thanks for the link!!Oh you have new bearing on the strip. They are supposed to stick on thier own
page 11 https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball37.pdf
No the piston assembly comes with the piston and rings. $34.00 or just the rings $31.00 so might as well get the slug too. The bearing liners are like $18 for both !!Sucks you have to buy the whole piston assembly on the DF's. Does it come with bearing liners? #1
Looks like a pretty good rebuild and procedure to me. Ball or shoe hone?
I was actualy looking at a ball but was worried also that the ball would squeeze into 2 stroke ports. Is the one I referenced above pads too small do you think? I kind like the stone hones-how long are your stones on yours?I use a large shoe hone now, because very small shoes hit 2 stroke ports and such. I want to get a ball hone though, this is the one I might get for F's and other similar size bores, seems like a good light grit to just resurface for the new rings. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-3-...MotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fToolsQQsalenotsupported
Yep..they sure do huh. 5-7 strokes in each direction with the ball. Is the bore on the F's the same as the Duraforces? The DFs have a 2.5" bore. So the tool you showed me may be a bit small. I'll look for a slightly larger one from the same seller.He's not reinstalling old bearings, he's installing new bearing that are on factory strip with the sticky on them.
I think my hone has 4" shoes. It works pretty good, not much up and down movement. The LB service manual shows using a ball hone.
Pg. 8 https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball60.pdf
F's have same stroke as DFs but bore is at 2.3"- That seller has a 2.5/8ths tool that says its good for 63mm+ bores. I think that's the one I need.Yeah, that seller has a huge variety of sizes
These are specs on all the older engines https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball64.pdf
Do you use a pad type of hone or the ball? I was thinking because of the flexibility of the ball it would actually work the port edges a but smoother than the paddel style- perhaps adding a touch of bevel to these edges as it flexes into the prts a touch.Check to make sure the cylinder wall is beveled at the top and bottom of the exhaust port. You don't want a sharp 90 degree edge there as the rings will expand into the port a few thousandth's and wear prematurely. I use a fine cut oval crossection file to put a bevel on this area and touch up all the ports edges after honing. I also like to use a good synthetic oil as a assembly lube because of its resistance to burn off and carbon formation. Good luck!
Thanks I was going to go with new liners. To me those take the worst beating. Are they plastic?I always replace the liners with rebuilds. They wear faster than the needles or crank journal ever would. They are a bit pricey, but worth it to get the clearances back in check. A good quality engine assembly lube works good for replacing used needles.
No. They are steel dipped in a nickle finish I believe.Thanks I was going to go with new liners. To me those take the worst beating. Are they plastic?