[TheSaturnV]

Not wanting to club it like a neanderthal, but this one is giving me a devil of a time. The pulley is either frozen on solid, or I am missing something. The ring on the face of the pulley is pinched on 4 sides, and I can't tell if it stays with the pulley, threads off or what. No set screws that I can find holding a keyway or the like. I did try a puller and all that happened was it began to bend the pulley so I quit. Looks like the bearing is held in by 3 slotted screws and a piece of thin metal, so I think the trick of removing Cub Cadet steering wheels is out where you put the nut back on and drive it through.

On the rear bushing, I've tried filling the cavity with grease and then later with compressed air to use the effect of forcing it out with pressure....no go on that one either. I see a little gap at the bottom and I may be able to come up with a custom slide hammer

Pretty well stumped at the moment, kind of frustrating because the S/G rebuild was cruising right along until now. Thanks for any help guys.

:howdy:

 

[D-Dogg]

The pulley on mine came off with a lot of PB-Blaster and a small puller.

The bushing was another story. I still need to get mine out as it is pretty worn. You need a blind bearing puller according to an article I read.

I suppose you would use a metal-cutting jig saw blade VERY CAREFULLY and cut the bushing on opposite sides then remove it with a cape chisel (I think it's called).

 

[TheSaturnV]

Thanks D-Dog, so there's nothing left to remove in that pulley photo? Is that little crimp ring part of the pulley?

 

[D-Dogg]

You know, it has been so long I don't recall if mine had the crimp ring or not, but I would guess you want to try to spread it and get it out of the way before pulling the pulley. Is it open or a complete circle?


I think it was OCC where I found the article on rebuilding them.

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

A side shot picture of that pulley would help to determine whot to do to get it off.. Does the shaft have threads or is it straight & rusty? So many questions.. I scanned a bit and from what I've seen it just comes off but it's been about 30 years since I've been in one of those..:dunno:

 

[TheSaturnV]

Shaft is threaded, ring forms a complete circle and PB blaster pools up around where it meets the pulley, rather than seeping in as you would think would happen it they were separate pieces. I've even tried pulling up pics online of just the pulley to see if it's one piece. Seems to be a lack of detailed info online. I've found several PDF manuals but they are more about testing and less about assembly, etc.

 

[D-Dogg]

OK, out to the parts box to look at my spare!

 

[D-Dogg]

No crimp ring on my pulley. Sorry!

 

[qub qadet]

This ma help with the bushing. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=221620

 

[hydrive_sam]

I just got done doing a full rebuild on my S/G. I had trouble with the pulley as well. Dont remember a ring but the end of the pulley on mine kinda looked like a ring. Give this a try. Pull the armature out of the case. Get 2 pieces of wood, like a 2x2 or smaller, and support the front plate behind the pulley on these 2 pieces of wood. Standing it straight up and down on the wood. Get them as close to the center as possible. Put the nut back on the end of the pully shaft and tap the shaft down out of the pully. If your lucky it will bring the bearing with it. For the bushing, i used a blind hole puller with a slide hammer. Got a set at Harbor Freight Tools for 50 bucks and it worked like a champ. Be careful when pulling the bushing out, there is a plastic ring that could break if you are not paying attention. If i remember i had to stop halfway, remove the puller, set the plastic aside, and then pull it the rest of the way out. Hope this helps, Sam

 

[TheSaturnV]

Give this a try. Pull the armature out of the case. Get 2 pieces of wood, like a 2x2 or smaller, and support the front plate behind the pulley on these 2 pieces of wood. Standing it straight up and down on the wood. Get them as close to the center as possible. Put the nut back on the end of the pully shaft and tap the shaft down out of the pully. If your lucky it will bring the bearing with it.

Success.

I had been trying variations of this, and wound up putting the armature back into the empty case, nut back on the shaft and setting the whole thing on a couple of pieces of 2x6. Just a few decent taps with a rubber mallet and it started moving. I'm shooting a video segment on this whole procedure, so we'll see if the bearing slides out too. I went ahead and removed the 3 screws on the bearing retainer just to let everything move freely.

A big thanks to all you guys.

:howdy:

 

[TheSaturnV]

Hopefully this thread will help the next person that runs into this. Current info on the topic seems a bit scarce on the InterWeb. Here are some photos of what I ended up doing:

 

[jsoluna]

Never had one of these apart, very nice pics and descriptions! Congrats on gettin it split!

 

[glenn27]

Nice write up and explanations---:thanku:

glenn

 

[hydrive_sam]

Nice pics! Glad you got it out. One other thing that i ran into was that i had a hard time finding a new oil wick. Mine was deteriorated and had brass power all throught it. I did find one guy on ebay that sold a pair for something like 3 bucks. Most other places wanted me to buy a min of 10 feet of the stuff. Hopefully you can clean yours up and re-use it.

 

[TheSaturnV]

Sam, do you have to pop off that thin metal cap to get at the wick? If so, it probably ruins it like the little ones in the carb. Did the wick kit come with a new cap? Thanks bud.