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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I'm stumped!

I'm trying to start the engine in a Case 222. I have no spark. I have 10-12 V at the coil positive terminal. To make sure I have tried running a jumper wire from the battery to the pos. terminal. I have tried several coils, condensers, and plug wires from running engines. I switched out the plug and points. I even tried the jumper wire from the points to the neg. terminal on the coil. Checking for proper ground I used jumper cables to ground the battery to the frame. I've checked the gap multiple times. Yes the point rod is working. I hold onto the plug wirer and no spark!

What am I forgetting???
 

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When I have a problem like that I usually start at the spark plug and work my way back to find the problem. If you start at the end and work back your bound to find the problem.
 

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Break the points open (turn crank), then remove the primary wire (points to coil -), turn ignition 'on' touch & break & the primary lead to coil -, you shouldn't have ANY spark between wire & coil - terminal. If you have spark there, you have a shorted primary wire, set of points, or condensor. No spark is a 'pass'. Close the points, try the same test again. Spark between the primary wire & coil - terminal now is a pass & indicates to me that your condensor is faulty, or your plug wire is open.
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Very good instructions HD. I nailed them to the wall in my shop.

However... There is no spark in either position.
 

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First, it sounds like your points or points wire from the neg side of the coil to the points is grounded out. Second, too large or not enough of a gap on the points. Third, dirty points. But all that would be the obvious. So I'm with you. Oh yeah,did you completely disconnect the tractor electrics from the "new ignition system you fabricated?
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I fabricated a new neg. wire to be sure. The points have been checked repeatedly. I replaced the points with ones that are almost new from a running tractor. I didn't remove the pos wire. I just jumped from the battery to pos. Is that bad?
 

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With the key on, you should have battery voltage on the + side of the coil at all times. With the points open, you should have 12v on the - side of the coil. With the points closed, you should have close to 0 volts on the - side of the coil.
You could use a test light instead of a meter. Please try this and get back to us. Specifically, what you get on the - terminal with the points open, and with them closed. We'll go from there.
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well! I'm embarrassed!

I was checking the meter readings and was getting some hinky numbers, so I took the terminals on the coil to the wire brush.

It runs!:bannana:

Physics is alive and well.
 

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Got 'er done!

:congrats::congrats::congrats:
 

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My late father-in-law who was a master electrician always said that the toughest problems have the simplest solutions.

Time and again I've seen this to be the case.

Perseverance paid off for you.

Mike
 

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Great! Corrosion is usually the culprit in these cases.:trink40:
 

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Glad you got it figured out

Matt
 

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Very good--Rich--

and some very in-=depth, but simple diagnois!!!
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, it was simple. I found that if I put the multimeter probe on the pos. terminal nut, I got 12V. If I put it on the end of the stud, I got zip.
 
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