My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

New to this forum and new to fixing small engines.

So here's what's going on with my 5-year-old D110 (93 hours).

My machine is regularly maintained according to spec.

Recently, while going up a small incline over thick grass, the engine suddenly sputtered and coughed black smoke out the front. Then it sputtered some more and stopped running. I pushed it back to the garage where I checked the mower blades (no blockages) and the oil which was really low (strange since I recently added oil).

After adding more oil I tried to restart. But it just clicked every time I turned the key, until eventually it stopped clicking.

I did some more troubleshooting and opened the engine to check on the head gasket. It was in bad shape, the area full with oil. The spark plug too was caked with oil. So, I cleaned everything up. As I was doing this, I noticed that while the piston could be pushed back the flywheel doesn't move at all.

So, it looks like the flywheel is seized, but I was under the impression that the piston could not be moved unless the flywheel moved with it.

Is this so? Either way, what might be going on in my D110?

Thanks for any advice you all might have.

- Dunc
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,485 Posts
Well, if the flywheel doesn't move when the piston does, then the connecting rod or crankshaft has broken... Or the flywheel is no longer connected to the crankshaft (ie, all the bolts have come out).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
The flywheel would not seize as the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft using one nut and a key. The only possibility for the flywheel to lock up is for one of the flywheel magnets to dislodge and jam between the flywheel and stator, which I have had happen to me. You can pull the flywheel and check this, but I'll put my money on a seized crankshaft and broken connecting rod. Probably due to low oil and an up hill ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks OldGibsonGuy,

Looks like you and Dave_R are of the same opinion.

Is this something a newbie can try fixing, or is it best to send it off to the shop.

-- Dunc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Depends on the damage, if you haven't torn down an engine depends on your comfort level, it's already broken. Chances are though it may be worth just getting it re-powered, but you wont know what way to go untill you peak inside. If you already pulled the head, its not much more work to get to guts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,485 Posts
Track down the service manual for the engine (may be tricky to do, as it may be non-trivial to find the manufacturer's model info for the engine, as JD wants to sell you their version of the service manual (or get you to punt it to one of their dealers). Read through it, and then, take the engine apart and try to identify what has gone wrong.

At that point, you can decide if it looks like something you can do, or you want a shop to do part of the job (say, if something needs machining, or bearings pressed in/out) or you want a shop to do everything. It's also possible that something can be broken inside that makes it not worthwhile to repair the engine.

I find taking pictures of assemblies before/as I'm disassembling things to be very helpful, as the service manuals aren't always exactly clear on what goes where. In particular, the carb & choke linkages can be tricky to get right if you don't have pics of exactly how and where they go.

I also bag small parts that go together in a ziploc sandwich bag, with a label of what/where the parts are/go. And note, some parts should also be tracked where they come from (ie, the valvetrain, like valves, pushrods, lifters, rockers) [cylinder 1, intake, cylinder 1 exhaust, etc...].

If you are methodical about it, and have time, it's pretty straightforward to do. And don't be afraid to buy special tools as needed, as while they can be expensive, it's can also be expensive to get someone else to do it as well...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Doesnt hurt to pop it open and see how bad it is. If it needs a rebuild cost wise it would be cheaper and easier to find a LA or another D series deere with a toasted tt40 or tt46 and use that motor. Can you put a socket on the bottom pully and turn the crank that way?
 

·
Senior MTF Poster
Joined
·
12,970 Posts
I might have a Service Manual for your engine IF I knew what engine. Address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Depends on the damage, if you haven't torn down an engine depends on your comfort level, it's already broken. Chances are though it may be worth just getting it re-powered, but you wont know what way to go untill you peak inside. If you already pulled the head, its not much more work to get to guts.
Thanks Orcus!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Track down the service manual for the engine (may be tricky to do, as it may be non-trivial to find the manufacturer's model info for the engine, as JD wants to sell you their version of the service manual (or get you to punt it to one of their dealers). Read through it, and then, take the engine apart and try to identify what has gone wrong.

At that point, you can decide if it looks like something you can do, or you want a shop to do part of the job (say, if something needs machining, or bearings pressed in/out) or you want a shop to do everything. It's also possible that something can be broken inside that makes it not worthwhile to repair the engine.

I find taking pictures of assemblies before/as I'm disassembling things to be very helpful, as the service manuals aren't always exactly clear on what goes where. In particular, the carb & choke linkages can be tricky to get right if you don't have pics of exactly how and where they go.

I also bag small parts that go together in a ziploc sandwich bag, with a label of what/where the parts are/go. And note, some parts should also be tracked where they come from (ie, the valvetrain, like valves, pushrods, lifters, rockers) [cylinder 1, intake, cylinder 1 exhaust, etc...].

If you are methodical about it, and have time, it's pretty straightforward to do. And don't be afraid to buy special tools as needed, as while they can be expensive, it's can also be expensive to get someone else to do it as well...
Thanks again Dave_R for all he advice. I will tackle it this week.

-- Dunc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Doesnt hurt to pop it open and see how bad it is. If it needs a rebuild cost wise it would be cheaper and easier to find a LA or another D series deere with a toasted tt40 or tt46 and use that motor. Can you put a socket on the bottom pully and turn the crank that way?
Thanks for the advice Summer5 -- will try with bottom pully.

-- Dunc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
Sounds like you broke a rod. Normally when that happens the portion of rod still attached to the crank flails around in there bending the camshaft and wrecking the governor, oil pump, etc in the process. Usually it makes an exit through the back of the crankcase but you'd have noticed that right away. I suspect you'll find that the rod lodged itself somewhere it shouldn't have, therefore giving you the impression that the crank/flywheel was stuck. Crack it open and have a look, but be ready to buy a replacement engine. One quick thing you can do is just drain the oil from it. If you see metal particles then that engine is toast and there's likely no need to proceed with disassembly as it's usually cheaper to just replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Hi Summer5,

Just freed up the flywheel by loosening nut on bottom pully. The flywheel can make one complete revolution then gets stuck (right about where there's a groove in the side edge of the flywheel).

Piston still does not move.

What now?

Thanks,

--Dunc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
That's kind of surprising but I still say you broke some internals. The piston, rod and crank normally move together and if they don't then something has to let loose. I'd go ahead and crack open the crankcase for a look inside. Post some pictures!

Oh and I see you're relatively new here, so welcome to MTF! :MTF_wel2:
I'm new to these forums too but not to tractors and mechanical work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
What is the engine make? Is it a Briggs or a Kohler? I am surprised that it has only 93 hours! Are you sure about the hours? If you bought it new the hours might be right. But if you acquired it as a used equipment, there is a likelihood that the hour meter was probably replaced at some point. I am curious to know. I have a similar John Deere (L130) with almost a 1000 hours. It has a Kohler 23HP engine and other than replacing the oil filter and engine oil every 100 hours or so, I don't do nothing much to it. Still running good.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top