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Looks like you are having some fun! If not already in your library, might be useful to go on the Tuff Torq website and download the K92 parts list and exploded parts diagrams for the hydrostatic trans/differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Looks like you are having some fun! If not already in your library, might be useful to go on the Tuff Torq website and download the K92 parts list and exploded parts diagrams for the hydrostatic trans/differential.
Did not know that this existed -- thank you!

Link for the curious:
Support --> Parts & Service --> Visit Service and Parts Website --> Tech Info --> K61 and K92 Teardown and Reassembly Guides --> K92 Service Manual (.pdf)
https://www.tufftorqservices.com/instance1EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TechInfo/docs/manuals/k92.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #43
OK, more coherent posting than last night.

I was a bit confused trying to get this apart. I was trying to follow the reverse of the installation instructions, but there was no mention of all these gears and crap. I didn't realize until after that they were installed in this center housing, and did not need to come out. I also didn't know what little things attached to the cover would need to be removed to get the cover off. Turns out it's nothing. Thankfully I didn't go crazy trying to follow the instructions too closely.

Once I got the rear cover pulled off:
20191126_004432.jpg



I was a bit worried I was going to have to get this snap ring off in order to get the gears off, to get the PTO gear holding cover off. Thankfully, you don't. It's part of the assembly.
20191125_202052.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Unfortunately, I did pull this little snap ring off. I might replace it, I don't like the way it looks or goes back on. See closely on bottom-left gear.
20191125_202038.jpg



And the most important thing: Once I got the PTO-mid-cover off (whatever it's called, sits between main housing, and back outside cover, holds PTO gears), the main case is perfectly fine, and no junk or debris in there.
20191125_224907.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Obnoxious amount of what I presume to be epoxy or JB Weld or something. Layers upon layers.
20191125_225753.jpg


Got a good bit of it removed and scraped with a wood chisel last night. Need to maybe use a dremel to clean up the rest. First I need to get the areas with bearings/gears dried off so I can tape it all off and seal it. Try and keep anything from getting into it.
20191125_233500.jpg


OK let's follow these directions carefully!
silicone o-ring installation.png


Or not. Or maybe the channel did it's job. I'm going to guess based on the craftsmanship of the rest of this install that they filled 'er right up.
20191126_004119.jpg



20191126_004152.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Here are the problem areas. Who knows what this clown did.
I see the ear on the left was welded, and it appears to be a decent job.
But that part in the middle/bottom? I don't know what that is.

The sucky part is, I don't know if it was one of the repairs that was leaking, or if it was just the sealing job.
How would I test that? I think I should get the right-side "repair" redone.

20191126_004723.jpg



Closer view of that other spot at the bottom.
20191126_004539.jpg



Closer still. Appears to still have a crack extening out to the right from the melted fishing weights. :drunkie:
20191126_004539 - Copy.jpg



This repair appears to be solid.
20191126_004641.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I dunno guys. The more I dig, I'm not sure if it's worth saving the PTO on this tractor just to say it has PTO and "cool" factor. Originally I thought, "Awesome, it has a rear PTO!"

But, I did some digging around, and it seems the "best" use of it is just to run a generator, and I honestly don't ever see myself doing that.

I have a 47" snow thrower, and wouldn't mind having a bucket some day.

I've got the Ruegg hitch to install...that's about it.

I'm concerned with the amount of work it's going to take to fix. I guess it needs to be soaked in detergent, baked, soaked, baked, soaked, baked etc. in order to expel as much fluid out of the pores of the Aluminum as possible before welding it. I assume then to do that, all of the gears and bearings need to come out of the cover. With that, I assume some are press-fit, and now we are talking a lot of labor (I don't have a press), and the cost of welding.

I can get the original gear and cover for $35 on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-425-445-455-TRANSMISSION-REAR-COVER-CENTER-GEAR-AM878394/233404947839?epid=1101416592&hash=item365804dd7f:g:xLsAAOSwmjZd0CCP

What do you all think?
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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There is another hair line crack going at a diagonal from the tiny hole on the 1st drop of what ever also. Those could be your leak since those should have been weld too.
 

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If you have no intention of running a tiller or anything off it, I don't see a point in spending the money. Id opt for the 35 dollar cover myself.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Rebuilding my First JD GT
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If you can replace that cover for $35.00 then that is the best option IMO. There are a couple of repair options cheaper than tig welding if you have a hard to find replacement cast aluminum part providing there is not a lot of flexing stress in the area of the crack and the part won’t be reaching or exceed melting temperature of aluminum brazing filler material. Tig welding dirty cast aluminum is not the easiest thing in the world to do. So JB weld if done correctly could work but even better is aluminum brazing rod. Here is a vid for the aluminum brazing option. There are a lot of YouTube videos for how to do the aluminum brazing option. I just linked one I saw and watched really quick. As with any cast aluminum repairs, the cleaner the better. Acetone could be used to further clean the area of the crack/s once all the main dirt is removed.

 

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I would attempt a repair with the brazing rod. Just make sure you clean it well and get rid of all paint / contaminants, so you can see all the cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I think that is the route I am going to go for now -- the original cover.

Maybe another time I will see about fixing it, or trying to sell it to someone who has the time/knowledge to repair this cover.

Do I just need the gear and cover from that eBay link to revert back to the stock setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Today was a long, annoying day. My new cover, and gear came in the mail a while back. I'd also bought a new snap ring, and RTV a while back. I was able to find the new parts, but not RTV. Had to run out to buy some more. Upon searching for the snap ring, which I found in my car on the back seat floor, I also found the RTV I'd bought before. :rolleyes:

As you've seen, whoever did this PTO install did a bad job, both in cracking the case, and loading up the red RTV.
2449606




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On test fit with the new cover, I could not get the cover to align with the alignment dowels. (Top dowel shown)
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Red circle = dowels need to align
Blue circle = bearings that need to align
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Could not understand, so I read into the PTO instructions again. What I found pretty much goes against everything I've ever learned.
I imagine the reason is to properly set the mesh of the rear gears, since the cover supports the bearings. Was still weird to me to do though.
2449613




Buttoned up. Need to transfer that...thing, forget the part name haha, off the old cover and onto this one.
2449614
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Next I get to play "what the **** is this and where does it go?"


2449618




2449616




2449617
 

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Discussion Starter #56

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Pressure washed
Soaked in Engine Degreaser
Pressure Washed
Soaked in Simple Green
Pressure washed again

Had to call in some special help...
So you went out and hired the Simple Green model to help....that's dedication! Looks like the power sprayer got away from her a little bit! Nice you have the kids helping!
 

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I see you noted the instructions about utilizing a pry bar to move the cover over (compressing a spring) so the dowel pins align. Attaboy! More than once I've heard of guys cracking the cover by failing to do so. I'm kind of wondering if that is not what happened to yours.

Another real common issue is that the rectangular O-ring becomes dislodged when prying over the cover. The instructions state to coat it in hydraulic oil---even at that, I've had issue with it becoming dislodged. I utilize some sticky grease. I know you're already beyond that, but unless your 100% positive the O-ring couldn't have moved, remove the cover (and clean up the silicone RTV), check the O-ring, replace if it became damaged from becoming dislodged, and apply sticky grease when re-assembling. If that O-ring leaks, the PTO clutch piston pressure will be very low. In turn, as a result of the low pressure, the clutch will slip, the plates/discs will burn and quickly wear out. A replacement PTO clutch pack is north of $300.00.

Edit by PA318Guy: Sorry, but JD manuals may not be attached to threads. For parts please use the JD online parts site. Otherwise you must buy the parts manual, this is a DMCA issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Great tips on the o-rings and rectangle ring. I did put a dab of something on the backside of the rectangle ring to hold it in place. I noticed the round ring kept trying to slip out when it was wet, so I dried that one off and put it back in.

Man. I sure hope it didn't move around!

Gonna have to pull up JDPC for the IPB to get the rest of this pig together haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
How do I get this out? I don't want to force or break anything. They're not cheap.

20200324_151046.jpg



Screenshot_20200324-151216_Chrome.jpg
 
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