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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I bought this 455 about 2-1/2 years ago in mechanically-sound-yet-cosmetically-hurting condition. It has run flawlessly the entire time. But, it's time to show the ole girl a little love I think.

There are a few reasons for doing this. Primary objectives:
  • Fix rear end leak
  • Remove JD Cat 3-pt hitch and install Ruegg limited Cat 1 3-pt.
  • Get all the lights repaired and working
  • Clean the deck thoroughly and sharpen the blades (or install mulching kit, or Gator blades, up in the air)
  • Get years of gunk and debris removed from everywhere
Secondary objectives:
I'm jealous of all you guys with your beautiful clean shiny tractors and I want mine to sparkle too! I don't know if I can use polishing compound and then wax on the floor and fender pans to get a decent enough job, or if I need to get them resprayed. If they need to be resprayed, I'll need to fix some cracks and reinforce the bolt hole areas. Might be a winter thing.

I have had a brand new pair of side panels sitting around since I bought it, but haven't put them on because the rest of the tractor was too ugly...LOL.

I will be posting pictures, progress, and questions in this thread to avoid having 10 threads going on with questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Started last night by power-washing everything off and out from underneath the best I could.
Brought it in the garage, removed the deck, seat, floor pan, fender pan. Nasty!
Started a list noting everything I needed to repair/buy/replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pressure washed
Soaked in Engine Degreaser
Pressure Washed
Soaked in Simple Green
Pressure washed again

Had to call in some special help...
 

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Look'in good Dave.

You don't want to utilize regular rubbing compound on the hood. It'll be disastrous. Myself and other members utilize Meguiar's Ultimate Compound:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It'll make hoods that are super sun faded flat shine like new again. I do mine with a power buffer, in which you have to be careful not to be burn through, especially on edges. You'll get the same results by hand, just takes a fair amount of elbow grease. It works great on the foot board and seat pan--but stay away from the decals as it will take the print off.

If your foot board and seat pans are rust, gouged or need reinforcement around the bolts holes to the point you'll be re-painting, I'd check into having them sandblasted and powder coated. It is pretty reasonable around here and the quality of finish/durability is great. However, you are replacing decals which can get pricey.
 

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Also, be sure to check with Bill Ruegg and confirm he has resolved the CAT1 3-point issue of the left rockshaft lift arm hitting and preventing the rear PTO lever from being moved when all the way up and the centerlink from hitting and denting the center of the seat pan.

I'd also suggest adding rear taillight retainers, either the JD Euro items or Aux Hydraulics has a couple of versions, also.

The headlight housing reflectors really get coated with dust, greatly diminishing their performance. I pull mine off every couple of seasons, soak them in a bucket of hot soapy water, then push a soapy rag into them through the bulb opening, swish it around, rinse in hot water, and let air dry. Makes a world of difference in headlight performance.
 

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Yep this is how you start, and you are off to a good one. BTW That is some great help you enlisted. :tango_face_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I appreciate all the replies, motivation, and informative responses! I'll get back to some individually later on when I have a bit more time.

Got the rear out tonight. I didn't have a "how to guide" so I just kind of worked my way through as I went along, figuring out what needed to be disconnected. The only thing that really hung me up was the hydraulic fluid line coming off the cylinder on the left side of the frame, it wrapped down and around the uh, lever for the thing you pull up on the back of the tractor.

Side note: I really need to study a parts diagram to read up on what everything is and what it does. There are so many moving parts and pieces to this thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I need to get in there with a couple Ziplock baggies and round everything up, before the kids kick everything to the furthest corners of the garage getting their bikes and whatevertheheck else they do. Now that the tank is off and the rear is out, there's some more cleaning that needs to be taken care of.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am pretty confident this is the source of the leak. It almost looks as if they smacked something and tried to epoxy a leak shut. I'll know more when I can get the cover off. I want to dig into the transaxle the least amount as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is the JD rockshaft. Side question: Does a non-3-point-hitch tractor come with a rockshaft? Or is it only part of the 3-point kit?

The Ruegg kit does not contain that threaded sliding piece on the right side. Do I knock that pin out to remove it, and move it over to the Ruegg rockshaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Video of steering shaft going into steering gear box? Lots of slop and play -- can this be adjusted out, or what's the correct fix?

 

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Jumped-across/disabled -- Whatzit do?
Thats the reverse implement lockout switch. It shuts off the pto every time you go near the reverse pedal. Big PIA. The earlier 4x5's didn't have them.
 

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This is the JD rockshaft. Side question: Does a non-3-point-hitch tractor come with a rockshaft? Or is it only part of the 3-point kit?

The Ruegg kit does not contain that threaded sliding piece on the right side. Do I knock that pin out to remove it, and move it over to the Ruegg rockshaft?
A non 3-point hitch tractor does come with a rockshaft as it is required to lift/lower the mower deck. The non 3-point does not include the "threaded sliding piece".

Yes, the Ruegg kit does come with the "threaded sliding piece" or at least it should have. It is the down stop for the 3-point. It limits how far it will drop. You adjust it by turning the shaft via the roll pin driven through it. I thought you had the JD CAT0 3-point on this, which would have the "threaded sliding piece". Perhaps you just received the components from Ruegg to convert your CAT0 to a CAT1 at a reduced price?
 

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Video of steering shaft going into steering gear box? Lots of slop and play -- can this be adjusted out, or what's the correct fix?

https://youtu.be/08ahEH-hCic
It is not a true steering gear with a continuous mechanical connection, but more of a hydraulic valve and pump (when the engine is not running). So "lots of slop and play" is the norm.
 
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