[gman2304]

Hello everybody, I bought a snapper sr140 off of cl yesterday and it has a couple of what I hope are minor problems. The deck belt keeps jumping off and the clutch doesn't engage until it's to the top and is kinda grabby.Are these issues adjustable? So far I have changed the oil and replaced the air filter, greased the front end and the battery is charging. The rubber disc looks to be good, but admittedly it's the first one I have ever seen! I have always wanted a little snapper rer and I think I am going to enjoy it. The model # is 3312513BE and the serial # is 35260147. It has the Briggs 12.5 HP IC engine and seems to run good.I don't know much about them but I am willing to learn. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks, Gman

 

[Dude11]

Ther's a "C" type clamp under seat around tube frame.loosen and extend tube a bit.When blade is engaged,should have bout 1in.between belt at the idle pulley.:trink40:

 

[gman2304]

Thanks Dude11, will try the frame extending. Any ideas on the clutch engaging at the top of the pedal travel? It's grabby also. I should probably do a search and download a manual. Thanks,Gman

 

[NOVAZ27]

Usually there are hollow spacers with the clutch cable running thru them. They are used to take up slack in the cable usually at the clutch pedal end???. I have an SR150 model RER which has the rectangular tube frame. Your SR125 is probably the same. I have had trouble with the hole on the clutch arm in the rear end that the cable runs thru. That hole over time has wallowed out & thinned/bent the metal thus allowing the cable to loosen up. I have a fix in mind that does not involve replacing the arm hopefully. Some of those spacers may be at the rear end also. I have not looked back under there for a while. Your problem is probably to much slack in the cable. Take up the slack and the problem may be solved. Adjusting the slack for the belt may take some slack out of the clutch cable also.

HOPE THIS HELPS

 

[Stan the Air Man]

It is important to use the correct lubricants in the drive system. Snapper dealers will have them and they are available as aftermarket.

If you need a service manual for mower and/or engine, I sell them at a fair price. I am a former servicing dealer.

Link to Operators manual. This covers adjustments and servicing:

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/dffnvJvLlSZk.pdf

Link to Parts manual:

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/aherzJvLlSZk.pdf

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/aheruJvLlSZk.pdf

 

[propwash]

Welcome: The clutch system in the RER is difficult to visualize,the only thing that holds the drive disc to the driven disc,is a spring,this acts through the lift yoke to the chaincase which is driven by the driven(rubber),disc.The clutch arm ,mounted to the yoke,travels toward the rear of the mower to engage the clutch. The spacers,at the pedal,seem to have more to do with the release point,of the clutch,than the engagement point. Wear of parts,especially the "rubber"disc, yoke,and the "bushing" on the chaincase,that moves on the yoke,will move the engagement point. A "grabby" clutch is a characteristic of the disc drive Snappers.
By all means,if you want to work on the mower yourself,get the Owner/operator,parts,and service manuals,you can also try Snapper.com/manuals,enter the model number.

 

[Dude11]

Extending the frame,as mentioned,also has a effect on length of b/c cable as well.