dazed and conFUSED (L245)

3758 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by Ed Fisher, Sep 8, 2010

Ed Fisher

Discussion Starter · Sep 7, 2010

Initially I had an inadequate charge to my battery so I bought a Kubota alternator. I then blew up a battery and I bought a Kubota voltage regulator. I blew up another battery and adjusted my voltage regulator on the fly, as in the tractor was running, and obtained the no-load desired voltage (around 14vdc). Now however, my 1st fuse to the left on the 4 fuse panel gets really hot and blows after awhile. Takes maybe 3 minutes at fast rpms. If I turn off the ignition switch the fuse stays cools as a cucumber but of course I am not charging the battery. Any help?

Ed Fisher
Texas

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Volfandt

· #2 · Sep 7, 2010

Welcome aboard Ed. Thats a perplexing problem you got there.
So if I understand you right, the L245 wasn't charging, you bought a new Kubota alt and it blew the battery. Bought a regulator and blew up another battery. You then adjusted the reg down to give approx 14 volts and now it's blowing a fuse.
Question 1, what is in the circuit that the fuse protects?

It almost sounds like something is really drawing some current on that fused circuit. It's possible that whatever "it" is could have burnt out the original charging system components and is about to get the new ones.

With that fuse out what doesn't work?
Theres usually not alot of electrics on these tractors (pre safety switches) so I'd also recommend to trace out the wireing to make sure nothing is pinshed or skinned and touching metal when the higher rpm vibrates everything more.

Let us know and good luck
Dave

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Ed Fisher

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 8, 2010

Thanks for the replies, one and all. I'm not completely sure what is on that particular circuit and had hoped one of y'all might know. I can tell you that the tractor will not start without the fuse, but will run without it (as it runs without the key on). The red light on the dash, located within the tach/hour meter will not glow either when the key is put into run position if the fuse is blown. I would too believe that there is a chafed wire somewhere, but, this is just too coincidental with my adjustment of the voltage regulator while the tractor was running. I'm sure that I didn't short my needlenose on anything, however at one point I had both cut-in contacts and voltage regulator contacts open at the same time and my meter was reading 30v or so. My bad. That leads me to believe that there may be a diode pack somewhere that was cooked or something of that nature. By the way, lest y'all think that I am more of a do-do than I really am (and I am) the batteries took a LONG time to blow, as in a season of mowing. The voltages were close, just not close enough...

Ed

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Volfandt

· #4 · Sep 8, 2010

I don't know how close the L235 - L275 is to your model but I found an owners manual on line, http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...s/&AutoIndex=87322dbaf06b81be87965d3d04b9a55c which has a wiring diagram towards the end of the manual.
It shows 4 fuses in the fuse block, 3 10 amp and 1 20 amp.
A quick glance tells me that 1 10 amp fuse is wired straight to the regulator on a blk/wh wire which also appears to feed the hr meter and a lamp on the dash labeled (Illmination FLV)?.
My guess is it's that one thats blowing. Check the wiring on those devices.

Check out the schematic and see if it's close to your model. If it is similar theres more electrics on your tractor than I originally suspected.

It also shows a safety switch in the start circuit, so you have to have the clutch depressed inorder to start?

One more thing, make sure the regulator is properly grounded.
How many leads are on thr regulator?
Dave

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Ed Fisher

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 8, 2010

Dave:

The schematic looks remarkably like my tractor, albeit without horn and hazards but those show as optional anyway. The fuse blowing is on the far left on the panel as you are in the driver's seat. I am not at all sure which fuse that is on the schematic, nor am I sure of its function (I didn't see it in the manual). I will endeavor to get the color code of the wire(s) to exactly the fuse blowing and see if I can trace them ohmically to their termination point(s) as well as checking for chafing. I still am concerned about the strong coincidence of my adjustment to the regulator and the slow-blow of the fuse though. The correlation is hard to ignore. Does anyone have a schematic of the regulator? Did I fry it and thusly the fuse goes into slow burn?

I do have a safety switch on the clutch.

All is disabled if the light (illumination FLV?) is out and the fuse is blown.

The fuse cools immediately if I turn the ignition switch to off and continue to run the tractor if that is a clue.

I really appreciate all of the help, and finding an online schematic that so closely matches my tractor was really a selfless gesture.

I may not get back to this until the weekend but don't give up on me! My job is beyond demanding.

All the best,

Ed Fisher
Texas

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Ed Fisher

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 8, 2010

I am going to attempt to load the PDF for the actual manual of my tractor thatn I found in hopes that it will become clear to those much more adept than I on what is going on. The light that is not illuminated when the fuse blows is the battery charge light and it disables starting.

can you see this?

http://www.tractorforum.com/f295/kubota-l245-owners-1395/index5.html#post106645

Ed Fisher
Texas

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