[dave_r]

Making some progress. Received the Sealed Power H1505CPA-0.50mm pistons today from RA, and the only online info I could find on them were incorrect, but in a good way, as instead of not coming with wrist pins, and using pressed-fit pins, they do include wrist pins, which are likely designed/made to be floating, as they also include retaining clips. I'll drop them off at the machine shop for them to bore out the block to match. The box even includes a bunch of info on doing the boring job to match the pistons, like not measuring the pistons where the special coating is on the piston, and the machined diameter of the pistons and what the clearance should be.

After work, I also did a quick check of one of the intake & exhaust ports on the heads, to check the work, and both now have a seat width within spec (vs more than double before).

 

[609745]

amazing how the seats widen with run time.
sealed power has always been a good brand product my big block holds them pistons, rings, bearings,

 

[dave_r]

It seems to be a decent brand. I've already got their rings (I got 20 over with the plan of filing to size, but no need for that now), and Mahle crankshaft main and rod bearings.

 

[dave_r]

After work, and having dropped off a piston and Sealed Powers machining instructions they included w the pistons, at the machine shop, I started working on the trailer plug. It partially works, parking lights and right turn/stop works, left turn/stop, main power wire (to charge trailer brakes) doesn't, and I still have to test the integrated trailer brake setup to see if it's working.

From the wiring diagram, it's a straight run from the fuse box to the rear connector, and there's power at the fuse box, and none at the connector, so I'll look for obvious damage around the fuse box and at the rear, but I'll probably wind up just running new wire to the back, as it is a high-effort for low reward to untape and examine the main bundle of wires running the length of hte truck looking for a break that may not even be visible (as in, the wire is broken under the insulation).

Same with the main power wire, except the jcase fuse for it was also blown (which, btw, also sucks, why couldn't they use mini or even full size blade fuses, you can test that it's getting power to each side, and they seem to be way more commonly available and cheaper, and WAY easier to remove w/o busting them). Tried putting power directly to the post, and didn't get anything out back, so it's the same deal.

Moved on to seeing how the ambient light circuit works, so I can add a switch to disable it, so the lights go off when I pull up in the driveway at night. The bcm connection is on the X2 connector, pin 11, white wire (somewhat annoying that right next to it is same size white wire for headlights, so you have to be extra sure to get the right wire, dumb).

It's slightly different from the circuit on my '04 Sierra, which had a loop (bcm to ambient light sensor, back to bcm, break the circuit w a switch to fake the sensor into thinking it's bright out). This circuit is bcm to als, to ground, so the bcm provides both power, and measures current in the circuit.

From testing, neither an open circuit, nor shorting the pin to ground works, most likely the bcm notices and ignore the input, thinking the circuit has a problem. I'll need to find a discrete resistor of about 400 ohms, 1/2W, with a SPDT switch to either connect the sensor or the resistor (connected to ground) to the bcm pin.

Finally, way back when I first got this truck, I stripped out some wiring the PO had put in for some equipment they had pulled out of the truck, and while doing this, I found a blunt-cut brown wire going in a harness under the dash. While doing this work today, I noticed there are several more blunt cut wires there, also going into the harness, so it looks OEM. From googling and watching an etrailer video on installing a brake controller, apparently those wires (including the brown one) are for hooking up a 3rd party trailer brake controller (which is nice, as I can tuck that brown wire up with the other ones, knowing it's not supposed to be connected up to something).

 

[609745]

hear you about fuses today dave,
there so many types now one running a shop needs close to a warehouse

Car Fuses | Automotive Fuses - Littelfuse

www.littelfuse.com

 

[Ingersoll444]

I really hate those new fuses. So many fifferent sizes, and styles. Some push in, some bolt in, some and bigger, and smaller..etc etc... Really need more of a standard like we always did.

 

[609745]

there 10 types of blade alone another 3 of cartridge, the list is huge

 

[dave_r]

Well, that ambient light sensor research/work I did was useless. First, I phoned a local store about getting a resistor, after a bit of back and forth, they had a 390 ohm resistor in stock, for $1/each (way overpriced for one, but local store and in stock), so I drive over, ask for one, the guy goes into the back, returns with 10 of them. I repeat I only want 1, nope, minimum transaction charge of any time is $10. I understand paying by card, either debit or credit, the base charge makes small transactions for a small business unprofitable, but to also apply it to cash is lame. I told the guy I'll just buy it over the internet for way less.

Then bought some wire for running the replacement power and lt/stop circuits to the rear plug, and some jcase fuses.

After returning home, I realized I had just assumed the overall system worked the same as my '04 Sierra, and that I have to test to see how this truck actually works. After a bunch of testing, it turns out:
a) the truck uses the low-beam lights for drl's, so when the truck is in gear, the low beam lights are always on (vs the '04, which has separate, much dimmer DRL's)
b) when not in gear, I can rotate the light switch to off (it's still spring loaded to return to the 'auto' position), and the lights will turn off with the engine running (vs the '04, where the off position does nothing)

So, instead I need to re-research the wiring diagrams to instead interrupt the bcm signal to the relay in the fuse box to turn off the low-beams via a switch (this may set a bcm code, but that's nbd).

After that, after making sure the circuit didn't have a short to ground, I disconnected the wire from the stud, replaced the 40a fuse for the trailer power wire, cleaned the wire connector, stud and nut, reconnected the wire, and then re-checked for power at the trailer and ....it works. So, no need to run a parallel wire for that. Rechecked the lt/stop, by removing/swapping fuses w rt/stop, but I'm not that fortunate, still doesn't work.

 

[609745]

dave
for stinks and giggles, check the turn signal switch, stops are the same filament as turn, the signals feed though the turn switch for stop and turn, before going back, been there got my six bit,

 

[dave_r]

No, both my '04 sierra and this 12 silverado, everything runs throught the bcm, so the switch only connects to that, then the bcm turns on the various lights/triggers the various relays as necessary. The bcm even combines the stop/turn signals for the taillights and trailer lights (which are separate circuits).

 

[dave_r]

After work, got started on some actual engine assembly.

First, finished up checking the valve seat width for the rest of the valves, then cleaned off most of the bluing dye and the lapping paste.

Then installed the valves and coolant plug for the passenger side head.

While my heads don't have a coolant freezer-style plug in the end (the FSM shows one), while the screw-in plug uses teflon thread sealant, the freezer-plug is supposed to be installed w blue threadlocker? Weird. I even double-checked with the FSM for my '04 Sierra, and it specifies the same stuff (GM #12345382 or #10953489).

 

[dave_r]

After work, and stopping to buy connecting rod bolts (as they are single-use) and a replacement valve spring retainer (previous one flipped off into never-never land in my garage), I worked on the second head.

Two heads are better than one:

Assembled the second head, including the coolant temp sensor and ground strap at the rear of the head (as it sucks to do after the engine is installed in the truck).

Also got the engine back from the machine shop, annoyed that they snuck in a $40 "shop supplies" charge on top of their quoted prices... And they made sure to hide it on the invoice, as they had line items for the machine work on the block and heads, then straight below that was taxes and total, the shop charges was printed smaller, and with their disclaimer/boilerplate invoicing interest rates/shop terms.

With the heads done, I'll move on to working on the bottom end of the engine.

And while driving around, I figured out the turn signals in the new truck. In previous vehicles, you lightly press the turn signal to flash one or twice for a lane change, and you can just release it and the flashing stops right away. I had been doing this with the new truck as well, but the blinker would keep going a couple more times and I would jiggle the handle to make it stop, which seemed to work. However, that's not what what is happening, the bcm has a minimum number of flashes for turn signals, at least 3, so if you only hold for 1 or 2, it keeps going.

 

[609745]

shop supplies tag on , that's a long old EPA related issue many don't like, yet something i have to add on also. cleaning chemicals and their proper disposal doesn't come cheap any more,

we use safety-kleen for the wash tanks, as they keep track of the waste for us , glass or walnut shell blasting media for the blaster , that uses 50 pounds at a time, it's not cheap anywhere from $70.00 to $100.00 a bag depending on what grit size we are using and for what , cast iron or alum, it breaks down into dust fast a so we have to add on to the total, there's only so much that can be absorbed internally.

 

[dave_r]

Made some more progress this weekend.

After polishing the crankshaft w strips of 400 and 800 wet/dry sandpaper w some wd40 lube (it didn't need much work, the journals were very smooth to begin with), I checked the main bearing clearances using the old bolts, and fortunately, they were all within spec. I do wish Mahle had made 0.001 over main bearings that weren't crazy expensive (they make their high end bearings with that size, but their low and mid grade stuff doesn't. EngineTech does, but it's out of stock at RA, and $25 for a seat of main bearings seems a little too cheap for me...

After cleaning off the plastigage from the bearing and crankshaft, I realized I had almost made a fatal mistake, by instaling the center bearings upside down, so the oil ports in the bearing were in the cap instead of the block. Swapped them around and moved on to working on the rods.

Another mistake I made, was not reading the FSM closely enough when I went over the instructions in preparation for doing assembly. At the top of the section on installing the crankshaft bearings, it calls out replacing the side cap bolts because they have sealant on the threads, but upon closer reading of the installation procedure it also indicates the cap studs and bolts also are single-use and need to be replaced, so I need to track those down tomorrow before installing the caps for the final time.

Removed the old pistons from the rods, starting off a bit too fast removing the first clip for the wrist pin, sending it flying by my head, following ones I took out a little slower so they didn't zing into my head. With the pistons off, I put in new 0.001 over bearings in them and installed them onto the crankshaft w some plastigage to check clearance. First and second tries, the crankshaft rotated while doing the 85 degree tightening phase, smooshing the plastigage. Finally came up with this idea to hold the crankshaft in place while I tighten them (temp installed the flexplate and wedged a piece of scrap metal into the teeth):

Redid it a 3rd time, and got a good reading, towards the tighter end of the clearance. I still have to do the torque angle phase carefully and in the right direction, so the rod doesn't rotate on the crankshaft (as they don't have the new pistons installed on them yet).

Finally, this is the dohickey I'm using for doing the torque angle stuff. While it's much more accurate than eyeballing the angle, it's none trivial to use it accurately (at least, the particular one I have isn't easy to use). For mine, the part with the holding bar (that you brace on something to be the starting angle, that isn't supposed to rotate as you turn the nut/bolt) is way too tight on the center shaft, so even if you can get that bar they include to brace on something very close to the unit, it can't be clamped strong enough to not move, so the starting angle pointer moves, and then you've got nothing. I was holding it by hand, which kinda worked, but it's difficult to hold still while cranking on a breaker bar to tighten it. When I do them for the final time, I need to rig up something to the block to solidly prevent it from moving while the bolts are being tightened.

 

[Ingersoll444]

One of the guys in the shop used a angle app on his phone for that. Seemed to work fine. Ive only run into simple "...and a 1/4 turn" stuff so never bothered to get anything to measure it.

 

[dave_r]

That's a great idea. I'll do some testing w my iphone taped to a breaker bar to see how well it works.

 

[609745]

nice work dave
but don't forget to coat the head bolts with sealant also, they go though not into blind holes like other motors, and you also need a new damper bolt, seat the damper with the old at 240 pounds remove/replace the bolt torque to 37 pounds plus 140 degs.

 

[dave_r]

I'll re-check the block, but I'm pretty sure these LS engine head bolts don't go into the water jacket. As well, the FSM doesn't mention it (and they do for other stuff that does screw into the water jacket).

I already have a new crankshaft damper bolt, I need to make the tool to install the damper.

 

[dave_r]

Well, I'm doing some other tasks for the next day or two instead of working on the bottom end, as local dealers want double what RA wants for the bolts, so I can get the bolts, and new UCA bushings, and fedex shipping from two locations, and still be cheaper than just getting the bolts from a local dealer...

 

[609745]

stealership prices how i agree. chevy and ford are not to bad around me, the cub cadet omg rip off msrp plus 40% most of the time .making it cheaper to buy online right from cub cadet and wait a week