My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I picked up an older Cub LT1040, using the Vari-drive or CVT speed control set up. It has the foot pedal that starts at neutral and slowly increases ground speed the more you push it.

It has Forward Neutral Reverse on left rear fender.
My question, I have checked the pulleys that do the vari-drive and they look great and move smoothly up and down, but after trying tractor not sure of one thing.
It moves well forward and reverse and goes fairly slow and fairly fast, depending on pedal position.
BUT>>>> From a dead start, it seems to be a bit "Jerky" and goes from not moving to about 2 mph fairly suddenly.

I am used to mostly Hydros so Maybe not a great comparison, but it is not smooth on takeoff. It seems there is zero MPH than suddely its moving at about 2mph with no inbetween.

Is this how the Vari drive should work, or should it be able to move or creep at lower speeds and start smoother??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,371 Posts
I picked up an older Cub LT1040, using the Vari-drive or CVT speed control set up. It has the foot pedal that starts at neutral and slowly increases ground speed the more you push it.

It has Forward Neutral Reverse on left rear fender.
My question, I have checked the pulleys that do the vari-drive and they look great and move smoothly up and down, but after trying tractor not sure of one thing.
It moves well forward and reverse and goes fairly slow and fairly fast, depending on pedal position.
BUT>>>> From a dead start, it seems to be a bit "Jerky" and goes from not moving to about 2 mph fairly suddenly.

I am used to mostly Hydros so Maybe not a great comparison, but it is not smooth on takeoff. It seems there is zero MPH than suddely its moving at about 2mph with no inbetween.

Is this how the Vari drive should work, or should it be able to move or creep at lower speeds and start smoother??
This is my favorite setup. Easy as a hydo to use (but jsut a f/n/r lever) but MUCH more durable.
Other MTDs use same double pulley but put a let up clutch on left and not nearly as nice to operate.

Rules for MTD doble pulley (double sheave), two belt system.....
ALWAYS replace both belts AT SAME TIME....and ONLY with GENUINE MTD BELTS.

Otherwise you will most often have jerky grabby engagement issues or low top speed.

Not guaranteeing this is you problem as a center sheave not sliding easily can cause it as can pedal linkage or binding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
This is my favorite setup. Easy as a hydo to use (but jsut a f/n/r lever) but MUCH more durable.
Other MTDs use same double pulley but put a let up clutch on left and not nearly as nice to operate.

Rules for MTD doble pulley (double sheave), two belt system.....
ALWAYS replace both belts AT SAME TIME....and ONLY with GENUINE MTD BELTS.

Otherwise you will most often have jerky grabby engagement issues or low top speed.

Not guaranteeing this is you problem as a center sheave not sliding easily can cause it as can pedal linkage or binding.
I only replaced the rear belt that goes from the transmission around a tensioner pulley and over to the double pulley set up.

I should look closer at the long main belt perhaps? The one from engine shaft to the double pulley CVT set up I guess.

Thanks!

The center sheave moves very smoothly on mine. I will double check linkages, although they seem to move relatively easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,371 Posts
I have just had too many experiences over the years with using aftermarket belts replacing just one belt and you will get exactly the symptoms you described. . I can't guarantee it won't be a waste your time as it could be something else but if you don't use two new belts of the original MTD brand you can get jumping jerky acceleration from a stop and you also typically get a lower top speed of the machine. The belts can look just fine but will still cause problems when they are not evenly worn and matched.

I just make it a rule that whenever one belt needs replaced I do both with MTD belts. I will not install an aftermarket belt for a customer unless it is a very easy to replace deck belt and I tell them there are no guarantees as I have had lots of problems with inferior quality belts.
Lowe's usually has both the belts in stock. One is $29 and one is $39. You might save a couple bucks on each belt if you order them but for me it's not worth the risk of someone saying it's an oem belt but not shipping and exact OEM belt.
You can't even trust blade belt for MTD machines. I had a Troy-Bilt one time that put a nice quality Gates power torque belt on there and it would not disengage properly. It was the exact same specs but it would sit there and would jerk on the pulley and build up heat and get a hotspot and the blade would still try to keep going and it was making a chattering noise and vibration from gripping on the pulley when it should have been sitting there freewheeling. I put the MTD belt on and it was perfect.

You might try adjusting the pedal first. Maybe it has a lot of free play in it. I believe there is a threaded rod that the end that goes through the hole with a cotter pin goes onto. You pop the cotter pin or S clip out and spin the end on the threaded rod to make it longer or shorter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,762 Posts
Not familiar with the cvt version but the other version had a belt adjustment to do after belt changes. Do you the manual describing belt changes?
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top