[awdriven]

Did some of the 2-wheel snow blades not have a separate cutting edge? I picked one up locally that is a QH and has the weights and skids - but no cutting edge. There didn't appear to be holes drilled for one either?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

My guess is they have worn down past the holes. I have a QH style blade and an old style and both had cutting edges. Every one I have seen has had one actually although some are VERY worn.

 

[awdriven]

Interesting theory you have there! I'll get to look at it again in a few days. Anyone know how tall the plow would be in un-worn condition? This one otherwise looks to be in good condition. The weights, skids, mount all are in good shape, not showing a degree of use that would go with a moldboard that had a good 1.5 inches worn off it.

 

[TheOneTrueStickman]

The one I've got is 20" tall, including the wear strip. This is the plain 4-bolt style, no skids or anything.

 

[Loremaster72]

There was a thread on here a couple of months ago about some 4-wheeler blades not having a cutting edge. Maybe there was a batch made some time with no cutting edge, probably as a "cost savings". I don't know this, but I could believe it. I could also see someone making a homemade blade, using factory parts for the mounts and weights. Please post some pictures of your blade, as it might help determine what is going on here.

Another thought I just had - what did the blade for the Mountaineer look like? Anybody here have one or remember?

 

[awdriven]

Here it is - it measures 500mm tall - so 19.6-ish inches.

 

[Loremaster72]

Interesting blade. If it's Gravely made, I'd say its newer, but there doesn't seem to be any red paint on the blade itself. It also seems to be rolled plate, instead of the brake-bent blades I'm used to seeing. I'd guess home-made.

If I were you, I'd reverse the mounting bolts for the skids, and probably try to rig it for carriage bolts. I'd think that the protruding nuts wouldn't help the snow roll off as it should.

 

[gm1276]

That's not homemade. Just a standard quick hitch plow blade. The wear strip mounting holes seem to have been worn off -- A new strip probably adds an extra 1.5" or so to the overall height of the plow, so your measurement makes sense.

 

[Loremaster72]

I'm amazed that the skids would fit on without drilling new holes if there is 1 1/2" worn off of the bottom of the blade. I'll add that I don't doubt it could be worn that much.

 

[gm1276]

Well, Gravely blades switched to black sometime in the early 90's, as far as I can tell -- so that's the reason you don't see red on the blade. As far as the skids, they have a pretty wide angle of adjustment allowing them to pick the blade up or not even really touch the ground. If it makes you feel better, we completely wore out an OEM Gravely wear strip in 2 seasons on only a moderately sized driveway.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

They made both style mold boards, in a break and a slip form/rollers. I have one of each. I have also seen where the bolt holes with a cutting edge still attached are worn 40% of the way through the bolt holes. I do not see it as improbable that the cutting edge is gone and the moldboard looks like a factory edge. I wouldn't worry, add a new cutting edge, and keep pushing. Something to think of as an alternative to Gravely, is to ask a grading contractor for some used motor grader blades. I cut them down to 48" and bolt them on upside down. They add weight and are much stronger material than factory edges.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

To further expand:

Motor grader cutting edges can be flipped but rarely are. These are installed upside down for what I use them for. I get them when we push snow, two to a grader, last 4-8 hrs. They are easy to find after a snow storm around here!

What you start with, it's 6' long here.

Cut it down:

And you end up with this:

Then you clamp it, mark bolt holes, drill for 1/2" plow bolts, and bolt it up. I do cut both ends off as the ends on a grader have two bolts close together and I cut it with 4 evenly spaced bolts for a gravely.

 

[awdriven]

Thanks, Jimmy! I am actually considering a rubber edge. My surfaces are a little uneven. Anyone know how far back the edge-mounting hole are set back from the bottom of the moldboard?

 

[Richard-tx]

Rubber would last about 1 snow storm or possibly less if I used it.

I think that if getting it down to the bare surface is needed then the plow is the wrong tool for the job. A brush is what I would use.

 

[awdriven]

I think it depends on the spec of the rubber. I can get two strips for $35. It's worth a shot.

A brush would be awesome, but they take up a lot of storage space and I think I need to slow down my Orange acquisitions.

 

[arcam8123]

Rubber wear strips are available. They are used a lot on decorative concrete surfaces and surfaces that could be easily disturbed like brick and coble stone surfaces.

 

[bluegoose]

I think it depends on the spec of the rubber. I can get two strips for $35. It's worth a shot.

A brush would be awesome, but they take up a lot of storage space and I think I need to slow down my Orange acquisitions.

They don't take up much space if you stand them on end - but they're heavy (as with all things Gravely), so make sure you lift correctly. One of those snowmobile or furniture dollies would make moving the brush around easier. As for your thought about slowing down your Orange acquisitions, I was looking for something humorous to read today - good luck with that!

:sidelaugh:sidelaugh

 

[awdriven]

I'd like to see what a brush could do with black walnuts in the fall. Great shade trees, but the nuts are a pain.

 

[arcam8123]

I'd like to see what a brush could do with black walnuts in the fall. Great shade trees, but the nuts are a pain.

You don't have enough squirrels. Our walnuts only hit the ground if the squirrels drop one.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Bolt holes are not too far up, maybe 1/2-3/4" max. I'll measure tomorrow on my blade; it is raining and dark right now.