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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

I own a 2015 Massey Ferguson GC1710 with a backhoe. I recently acquired a small hydraulic driven post auger that I would like to mount to the backhoe boom. The brackets and mounting the unit and whatnot are the easy part for me but I am trying to figure out the best way to actually spin the auger.

My initial thought was to basically treat it like one of those rental towable units from home depot(with the head mounted onto the backhoe instead of my hands!) and have a separate power pack - a gas engine like a GX390 or similar to run a hydraulic pump with relief valve, tank, cooler, lines to auger head etc and have the hydraulics completely self contained.

The more I think about it, the more I consider running it off the tractor hydraulics though. Which is what I am hoping some of your experiences will help.

My only concerns are I do not want to lose any of the loader or backhoe functions to run the auger. I am also worried that the tractor might be on the low side for hydraulic flow and pressure. The auger unit claims 2600 psi max, with gpm from 3.7 to 14.7 max. Those home depot towable style do roughly 1900 psi and 5.5 GPM. From what I understand the tractor will do around 2000 psi but only 4.3 GPM.

Am I asking too much from the little tractor? I mostly use a 6" or 10" auger for fence post installs. Is there an aftermarket remote hydraulic function valve that will give me forward/reverse with some level of control etc? Or am i stuck running it off the loader tilt valve lol.

Anybody else have any thoughts or ideas? Would love to hear from somebody that actually knows what they are doing haha.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I would run it off a separate pump and spool. Leave the BH fully functionable. You will need all its maneuverability to keep the auger straight as it digs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah is that going to be the best bet? I have always been pleasantly surprised how little the engine actually seems to work running the backhoe hydraulics. The 60" blower will sure make it snort in wet snow however.

I would run it off a separate pump and spool. Leave the BH fully functionable. You will need all its maneuverability to keep the auger straight as it digs.
 

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Also do you mean power or maneuverability? I wouldnt sacrifice any functions on the backhoe, only some power loss from the auger.
I would run it off a separate pump and spool. Leave the BH fully functionable. You will need all its maneuverability to keep the auger straight as it digs.
 

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Will the tractor hydraulics provide to much pressure to the auger head. It will still require a spool with forward and reverse capabilities. A relief valve would take of pressure issues. Then the issue of having enough ports without disconnecting something. You do not want to loose maneuverability anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I definitely agree it would require me to figure out a foot operated forward/reverse controls for the auger. There is a company out there that makes a 3rd valve kit for the tractor that would enable me to keep every current function and also have an aux port for the auger or a wood splitter, cement mixer etc.

As far as actual psi, the tractor only does 2000 psi max and the auger drive unit is rated for 2600 psi max.

This is the machine the auger drive was designed for:

https://www.woodmanstore.com/883/product/mini-excavator-jansen-mb-1500-135-hp-petrol-engine.html
Will the tractor hydraulics provide to much pressure to the auger head. It will still require a spool with forward and reverse capabilities. A relief valve would take of pressure issues. Then the issue of having enough ports without disconnecting something. You do not want to loose maneuverability anywhere.
 

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I was thinking you would be taking the bucket off when using the auger, so why not tap the lines that supply the tilt ram for the bucket. You shouldnt need a ram on the auger as they can be directed easily with the boom.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Plumbing extra remote for auger on Massey Backhoe

Hi there,

I also posted in the custom equipment subforum but they led me this way for additional help. I own a 2015 Massey Ferguson GC1710 with a backhoe. I recently acquired a small hydraulic driven post auger that I would like to mount to the backhoe boom. The brackets and mounting the unit and whatnot are the easy part for me but I am trying to figure out the best way to actually spin the auger.

My initial thought was to basically treat it like one of those rental towable units from home depot(with the head mounted onto the backhoe instead of my hands!) and have a separate power pack - a gas engine like a GX390 or similar to run a hydraulic pump with relief valve, tank, cooler, lines, spool valve to auger head etc and have the hydraulics completely self contained and separate from the tractor. A portable power pack basically.

The more I think about it, the more I consider running it off the tractor hydraulics though. Which is what I am hoping some of your experiences will help.

My only concerns are I do not want to lose any of the loader or backhoe functions to run the auger. I am also worried that the tractor might be on the low side for hydraulic flow and pressure. The auger unit claims 2600 psi max, with gpm from 3.7 to 14.7 max. Those home depot towable style do roughly 1900 psi and 5.5 GPM. From what I understand the tractor will do around 2000 psi but only 6.6 GPM - and its likely the steering takes 2 GPM or so to run.

Am I asking too much from the little tractor? I mostly use a 6" or 10" auger for fence post installs but dream of also using it for small screw piles for decks and sunrooms. Even if I had to do the last couple feet with a cheater bar occasionally lol. I have used a 3pt hitch style auger with the tractor before and it has no problem sinking the auger bit in like a screw pile until the head is sunk - if you're not careful with the controls.

I am also currently in talks with a gentleman that makes a remote valve kit with additional working lines for this exact machine but I would like to confirm the tractor itself will actually run the auger reasonably effectively and do what I want it to do before I go that route.

Anybody else have any thoughts or ideas?

Sorry about the essay but thanks for reading and your input.
 

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Could you put quick couplers on the hoses and then quick couplers on your ram and also the auger? It should work fine like that. Then just remove the ram or tie it in place.
Im not sure if you have rubber hose by the ram or just steel line. Some improvising may be needed.
 

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Bolt a bracket to the control pedestal for a separate valve set. (Watch for knee clearance.) The power beyond kit is already in place. Run a new hose from the return (left side) of the back hoe valve set to the new valve, and move the return line to the return side of the new valve. You may need a new return line to make it long enough to reach the normal return quick connect on the tractor. String the work lines along the boom to the bucket for quick connecting to the auger. Tie them well. You will probably need the bucket cylinder serviceable for making small adjustments to the auger position.

Connect and disconnect the back hoe as normal. Protecting the quick connects from dirt, debris, and sideways impacts when the auger is disconnected will take some thought. If you split the quick connects (one male and one female) for each, the tractor side and the auger side, they can be connected together when not in use to keep the dirt out and so that reconnecting them results in the same rotation direction for the valve position every time that it is reconnected.

The low flow and pressure will limit the size of the bit and the type of ground that you will be drilling. The flow is higher than minimum, but not by much. The 23% lower pressure rating may be of more concern.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your input. That was very helpful and allowed me to picture the routing.

So basically it would go pressure line from tractor to backhoe as usual then to directional control valve to the original return line. Do I just leave the 3rd line (relief) as it is?

I bought a valve today, would like to confirm I have the right thing as there seems to be some extra ports on it. Will I have to block off some of the ports? Am I on the right track? I attached a few pics of what I grabbed.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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The relief line remains as normal.

The outside top and the side ports directly below are optional for plumbing convenience. The one on the left directly behind the relief valve is for supply, and the one at the right back corner is the return. You will need the correct ORB plugs for the unused ports. If PAL doesn't have them, try The Parker Store.
 
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