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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey i know i have alot of questions, and i keep making new threads sorry about that, but i have more questions as i go.

How does the hydraulic pump work the cylinder, pumps in bottom and cylinder is on top. If i remove the hydraulic housing that hold piston, do i have to worry about any alignment issues or can i regasket and put together?


The top of the three point with the big spring, i imagine that is under alot of tension can i remove it without any concerns/problems?



I really apprecaite all of the help you guys are providing me.

Thanks again,.
Paul
 

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????'s are why we are here. When you put the top back on just get the gasket lined up and all will be fine. DO NOT use any sealer on the gasket for the cover or hydraulic pump, put them on dry.

The spring is not really under any tension to speak of and you can remove it without worry. Just be careful NOT to try to turn the end of the shaft or you will break the attachment point under the cover. Generally taking the shaft that go though the spring apart requires a LOT of work and penetrating oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
alright, so another question john sense you answered my last one, can you leave that shaft on and remove the hydraulic piston/pump. from the lift coverr?

I feel stupid for asking but isn't the "pump" sitting in the bottom of the tractor?
 

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alright, so another question john sense you answered my last one, can you leave that shaft on and remove the hydraulic piston/pump. from the lift coverr?

I feel stupid for asking but isn't the "pump" sitting in the bottom of the tractor?
Leave the shaft alone...(it will be heavy caution)The piston is in the top, pump is in the bottom..

The PTO shaft must be removed to remove the pump from the bottom..
 

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A tip to make things a little easier. When replacing that top cover, get yourself a couple studs the same size as the bolts. Put the two studs in the bottom case, place the gasket on the studs, then lower the top down on the studs.

The studs keep the gasket lined up and just make things easier to do. Remember, that top cover is very heavy. Put in the rest of the bolts then remove the studs and stick in the regular bolts.
 

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A tip to make things a little easier. When replacing that top cover, get yourself a couple studs the same size as the bolts. Put the two studs in the bottom case, place the gasket on the studs, then lower the top down on the studs.

The studs keep the gasket lined up and just make things easier to do. Remember, that top cover is very heavy. Put in the rest of the bolts then remove the studs and stick in the regular bolts.
:trink39::trink39::trink39::trink39::thanku:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
okay that doesn't sound too bad, just want to replace gaskets on cover between cover n piston. Thanks for the responses Ken your lift cover looks awesome by the way spray paint or gun?

So exactly how does the piston work when the pump is on the bottom and there isn't any hydraulic hoses connecting the 2?? I have to be missing something.
 

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There is a metal tube in the housing to carry the oil from bottom to top, look at the right side with the top off and you will see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright next time I'm in the barn I'll have to looks thanks :) I feel slighty stupid considering I work on vehicles everyday of my life I'm a mechanic :/ oh well sometimes vehicles can be les tricky even with all of the electronics
 

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Since you have the lift cover off you may as well replace the lift piston. Use the NAA piston that has an O-ring versus the steel ringed OEM piston. You'll be miles ahead by doing this.

I've done this with both of my N tractors and love it. no more lift piston leakage. I understand they have a teflon wiper now instead of the leather wiper which should make this job even easier. I haven't had any experience with the teflon but the leather wiper was a PITA to install correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
please explain, what the wiper is??? and good point slip knot, i was going to ask if i should replace anything sense i have the lift cover off, just on my cell phone at work lol. so i get in as much as i can.

I defiantly want to do everything correctly, this is why i have so many questions, sometimes it is easier to ask in here then look at the manual or parts diagrams, because typically with everyones responses there is experience and you can't beat experience.
 

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okay that doesn't sound too bad, just want to replace gaskets on cover between cover n piston. Thanks for the responses Ken your lift cover looks awesome by the way spray paint or gun?

So exactly how does the piston work when the pump is on the bottom and there isn't any hydraulic hoses connecting the 2?? I have to be missing something.
A lot of the pictures that I post, are unfortunately, not of my tractor..:crybaby:

I do have a library, on CD, with pictures that I have captured over about 13 years.. :fing32:
 

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I think the 9N is the same as my 8Ns. So while you are in there, look at the "cam follower pin". Mine was worn and it gave me lots of grief until I replaced it. Not much to replace, but if it's wore it would be a good time to do it. I will attach a drawing (or try to) of the location. I got the pin locally, but I was told that a drill bit cut to the right length will work also. You should also check to see if any "sludge" is in the bottom.
I went with the NAA piston. It is SO MUCH better then the old style metal rings. I have no leakage what-so-ever. Before, when I replaced others with the metal style, they worked but I did have a little fluid drip back.
When putting the cover back on, it is a 2 man project. You have to have someone line up the control shaft so it fits in that "little" hole. With one person doing it, the hole is REALLY LITTLE.
 

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I think the 9N is the same as my 8Ns. So while you are in there, look at the "cam follower pin". Mine was worn and it gave me lots of grief until I replaced it. Not much to replace, but if it's wore it would be a good time to do it. I will attach a drawing (or try to) of the location. I got the pin locally, but I was told that a drill bit cut to the right length will work also. You should also check to see if any "sludge" is in the bottom.
I went with the NAA piston. It is SO MUCH better then the old style metal rings. I have no leakage what-so-ever. Before, when I replaced others with the metal style, they worked but I did have a little fluid drip back.
When putting the cover back on, it is a 2 man project. You have to have someone line up the control shaft so it fits in that "little" hole. With one person doing it, the hole is REALLY LITTLE.
No cam follower pin on the 9N/2N..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well, thats alright ken, proud of the CD full of pictures :thThumbsU

People don't understand how i get geeked up about going out in the barn and working on the old girl(they tell me you work on cars everyday) but its different, its fun to fix the parts to the tractor then assemble them on the tractor and watch the old girl slowly come back to life.
 

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well, thats alright ken, proud of the CD full of pictures :thThumbsU

People don't understand how i get geeked up about going out in the barn and working on the old girl(they tell me you work on cars everyday) but its different, its fun to fix the parts to the tractor then assemble them on the tractor and watch the old girl slowly come back to life.
Old Henry designed these tractors to fixed by the farmer out in the field..Thus the tool box supplied with the tools..:thThumbsU
 

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The NAA piston swap is fairly easy to do. Lots of threads on this site to help explain the exact procedure. The factory 928N's all had a lift piston with steel rings. these rings all had endgaps that leaked a little and when worn leaked a lot. The NAA had an improved lift piston that only has 1 ring, An O-ring. this O-ring has a backup wiper that helps seal the O-ring to the cylinder walls and helps keep the cylinder lubed. The old leather ones were a real pain to get on right but I have heard there are teflon wipers available now. If your lift cylinder isn't too scarred up I'd certainly look into this upgrade Probably less than $30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
oh i plan on doing he swap, if the cylinder is scared up i guess i'll have to get a new cylinder believe their 100 dollars, but on the other hand does the swiper come seperate of the o ring then, guess i have some research to do then :).
 

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Yes the wiper is seperate from the O-ring. I used to get several leather wipers because I usually screwed a few up before getting it right. The leather ones needed to be soaked in warm oil to get pliable enough to stretch over the piston and still shrink back enough to settle into the ring groove. I haven't had a chance to try the new teflon wipers but they have to be easier than leathers.
 
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