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I am also looking at the cub LTX 1050. Does anyone know if it has a limited slip differential or only one drive wheel? Is there a snowblower attatchment available and what is the cost? Thanks!
 

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For $3500 you could about get the Cub 2500 AND get shaft drive plus have a real GT.
 

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I am also looking at the cub LTX 1050. Does anyone know if it has a limited slip differential or only one drive wheel? Is there a snowblower attatchment available and what is the cost? Thanks!
Yes there is a snowthrower attachment. The two main options are the MTD 190-032 and the Bercomac.
 

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I am also looking at the cub LTX 1050. Does anyone know if it has a limited slip differential or only one drive wheel? Is there a snowblower attatchment available and what is the cost? Thanks!
No limited slip. It might be safer if you don't have limited slip. I've got a steep hill that I only mow in the downward direction. Sometimes I'll lose traction for about 10' before I regain traction, and it doesn't miss any grass either when it happens(I may add wheel weights someday, already have windshield wiper fluid in the tires). The hill flattens out and there is nothing to run into so I don't find it dangerous when it happens. It is easily controllable for me when it does slide on this particular hill, however only one rear wheel is sliding. The other rear wheel is turning and is not sliding.

Would a limited slip rear cause both rear wheels to slide? It might take more for them to break loose than a conventional transaxle, but I certainly wouldn't want to lose traction on both rear wheels at the same time.

Anyway, I can pull hills with my conventional rear transaxle that seem plenty steep enough for me. The limited slip would give you more traction, but what happens when both rear wheels lose traction is the question.
 

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For $3500 you could about get the Cub 2500 AND get shaft drive plus have a real GT.
But he doesnt need a GT for mowing, You are a little late anyways.
 

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Good luck with the new cub, If I get a mower it will be the LTX1050 KW and a snowblower, And a GT2542 for the garden and a snow blade for it.
 

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To anyone owning a LTX1050, I would suggest reading the post by Panchohughes dated today (05/20/10., it could or should helpful to all that own one.

Dick
UPDATE: After mowing my 1 acre lot for about 2 months now, everything is working well. The tranny noise that was bothersome is no longer there after the mod and I am very happy with the tractor.
 

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Any opinions on the Cub Cadet GTX 1054?...I am planning on buying one in the morning as my John Deere has broken down again!
 

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Any opinions on the Cub Cadet GTX 1054?...I am planning on buying one in the morning as my John Deere has broken down again!
I debated getting the GTX 1054 when I bought my SLTX 1050. The main differences are a slightly beefier deck, 1" versus 3/4" rear axle, different hydro, 1" wider tires. For my own use, it wasn't worth the price difference. I wanted the front anti-scalping roller and 12" diameter rear wheels, both available on the SLTX 1050. I didn't really care about the rest for my intended use (no ground engagement). If I was going to spend more than $3000, I was going to bump up to a 2500 series to get a 'real' garden tractor. The GTX 1054 is sort of the odd man out in the Cub Cadet lineup, which left me uncertain about long-term parts availability. The turning radius of the GTX 1054 is also significantly wider (21" versus 12"), which mattered to me.

Just my buying criteria. For the price I think the GTX 1054 is a nice machine, it just sits in between a lawn tractor and a garden tractor and I was going one way or the other. Grab the 1000 series brochure from the cub cadet web site to see a high-level view of the differences in the lineup.
 

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My main reason for choosing the GTX 1054 is the serviceable hydro with filter. I want the best chance that this tractor will last. I will be using it on a steep ditch in the front of my property and ocassionaly pulling a loaded trailer on level ground (no ground engagement plans). I would move into the 2500 series but $3000 is my absolute limit! Thanks for your comments.
 

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Now I know I will likely get blasted for resurrecting an old or what some people call a dead thread, but I just joined here after picking up a used LTX1050 for free over the weekend. The reason it was free was the seller said the engine won't turn. Needless to say, I am looking to research why it is this way, and heck even which engine it has in it.

Obviously, I am searching the forum to see what info I can find out about these units. Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me with any diagnosing of my machine.
 

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Now I know I will likely get blasted for resurrecting an old or what some people call a dead thread, but I just joined here after picking up a used LTX1050 for free over the weekend. The reason it was free was the seller said the engine won't turn. Needless to say, I am looking to research why it is this way, and heck even which engine it has in it.

Obviously, I am searching the forum to see what info I can find out about these units. Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me with any diagnosing of my machine.
Welcome to the forum. Your unit could have a Kohler, Kawasaki, or B&S engine in it. Check under your seat for a data tag and see if you can match up any numbers here--> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
 

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On a side note, I also own another older International Cub I would guess is 90's vintage. I forget the model number. I got that one at auction years ago. It ran and the mower deck was in good shape, but I discovered it had something like a wire ( picture a throttle cable, bicycle brake cable type wire) wrapped around a bearing/pulley) which I removed and made sure the deck spun freely and was greased etc. This mower gave me fits in 2 ways. First, was likely carb related as I would get it running, get set to mow and then it would not get up to full speed smoothly. Sometimes it would seem ready to mow, so I would trailer it to my friend's house and pull it off the trailer one last time,,,,,,,,,,, it stalled and would not restart.

The 2nd issue was the mower deck itself. I never could seemingly figure out how the belt was supposed to go, as if memory serves me right, the deck would either spin ok a short time, but slow down even in light grass, or else the belt would jump off pulleys. Once I get better info on the exact model and into diagnosing this tractor, I will either post here or in any topic that covers that particular model.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Your unit could have a Kohler, Kawasaki, or B&S engine in it. Check under your seat for a data tag and see if you can match up any numbers here--> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
Thank you Steve. I had a hurried day on Sunday when I got it and it still sits in the back of my truck. Just prior to acquiring it, I also managed to find a running but sort of well used,, John Deere LX 172/176 Hydrostatic tractor too. HAHA the seller was missing the hood and made one from that foam core board stuff. That unit was still worth the $40 I gave the kid but I had to unload it by myself using the hill behind the truck and muscle method. The darn kid kept the key off it and of course my Deere STX 38 key won't fit it, so I could not even ride it up our driveway before racing off to get the Cub.
 

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Welcome to the forum! That's kind of funny (though not so much for you!) about him keeping the key, sorry that created extra hassle. Good luck with the LTX! The engine should have some sort of ID tag/sticker on it. Pictures would probably at least help identify brand, anyways.

And from there, the troubleshooting steps are fairly universal anyhow. Plenty of folks here willing to help, as you get a better handle on the problem.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Your unit could have a Kohler, Kawasaki, or B&S engine in it. Check under your seat for a data tag and see if you can match up any numbers here--> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
Thanks Steve, I just went out and flipped up the hood to find the Engine id tag. The engine is a Kohler SV715 which makes it a Courage, if I am not mistaken. I also recognize the dealer this tractor was originally purchased from.

Believe it or not, I am soon accumulating experiences with almost every popular motor maker. From all the mowers I have acquired since my first Steiner with an 18 Hp Briggs, I now have 2 Cub Cadets, 2 John Deeres, 1 Craftsman and 1 MTD Yardman I think. Pretty sure most of all of these have either Briggs or Kohler's in them but since I am unfamiliar with the Deere's I actually have to look and verify. I am sure I have operated someone else's machines that had Kawasaki engines in them ( maybe some walk behinds that friends used) So, I am quite interested in learning more about not only my Kohler equipped LTX 1050, but also the Kaw equipped ones of some of you guys.


Also, I found the ID tag for the Deere, but of course the model number is Scratched through the sticker right where the 3rd digit of the model is. Looks like I need to get busy cleaning things up to access the engines' ID info's, Deck info's missing or broken parts cataloguing, and photographing everything for references.
 

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Ok I have a better understanding of these Kohler engines from watching some oil Leak, cracked block repair videos on these things. I can deal with oil leaks, but of course if it went dry and ruined the piston/cylinder, that is a different scenario. So, I will have to get it off the truck, pull a few things apart and see about if the engine will free up or not.
 

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Thanks Steve, I just went out and flipped up the hood to find the Engine id tag. The engine is a Kohler SV715 which makes it a Courage, if I am not mistaken. I also recognize the dealer this tractor was originally purchased from.

Believe it or not, I am soon accumulating experiences with almost every popular motor maker. From all the mowers I have acquired since my first Steiner with an 18 Hp Briggs, I now have 2 Cub Cadets, 2 John Deeres, 1 Craftsman and 1 MTD Yardman I think. Pretty sure most of all of these have either Briggs or Kohler's in them but since I am unfamiliar with the Deere's I actually have to look and verify. I am sure I have operated someone else's machines that had Kawasaki engines in them ( maybe some walk behinds that friends used) So, I am quite interested in learning more about not only my Kohler equipped LTX 1050, but also the Kaw equipped ones of some of you guys.


Also, I found the ID tag for the Deere, but of course the model number is Scratched through the sticker right where the 3rd digit of the model is. Looks like I need to get busy cleaning things up to access the engines' ID info's, Deck info's missing or broken parts cataloguing, and photographing everything for references.
I did a little research online today Wednesday. and will post the basic here and then make my own thread about the Deere LX 176 elsewhere so as to not confuse people who came here looking for CUB Cadet LTX 1050 info. I essentially concluded the Deere has a Kawasaki 14 hp FC 420V engine.
 

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Now to continue the more pertinent topic of a 1050 Cub, since my unit has the Kohler Courage 22 and not a Kaw KW engine, does anyone have experience with engine swaps in these mowers? In other words, is the Kaw more reliable than the Kohler? Like is it less prone to things like the oil leaks, loosening engine bolts, cracked blocks from the above and ultimately the design of the horizontal single cylinder Kohler Courage engines?

I have focused my concern here so far, due to the " stated condition" of the engine being the reason the owner was giving his mower away, and I wound up with it sight unseen.
If I get further details on the condition of the Kohler engine, I will post about it further later.
 
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