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Discussion Starter #1
So the other day my Cub Cadet decided to let a set of rocker arm bolts come loose... at 4000rpm and that decided to bend a set of valves nick a piston and make a pushrod bend and attempt to make a pushrod go rocketship status and enter the Stratosphere. So I had to tear it down and the bores are worn .014 at this point I am thinking its a wonder this thing has not tried to send a piston into the Stratosphere so at this point it would cost too much to repair reasonably and even if I were to rebuild it it would be at a fraction of its former glory.

So now I need to replace its engine so I look where all reasonable people look... Harbor Freight their 670 almost perfectly matches with the mower other than it needs a pto shaft adapter (flywheel side) and a 1 in to 1 1/8 in spacer and this https://www.performance670.com/product-detail/predator-670-kohler-adapter and I will need to build a custom exhaust for it

Would there be anything else I need to worry about

Here is some info about the tractor it has a 54 in deck 2300 hours a Kohler 23 hp 674cc Twin a mint set of tow ropes and a fuel tank/crankcase vent reroute/catch can it is used for almost everything Moving trailers, moving trees , pulling small trees/bushes out , moving partial trees ,moving anything to big or heavy to be moved by hand , and to jumpstart stalled things.

Thanks, WRA :tango_face_grin:
 

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Assuming the HF 670 motor includes the exhaust in the picture (other manufacturers seem to sell the exhaust separately for their twins...), you may want to figure out what electrical needs your tractor has, and if the HF engine has a powerful enough alternator for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Assuming the HF 670 motor includes the exhaust in the picture (other manufacturers seem to sell the exhaust separately for their twins...), you may want to figure out what electrical needs your tractor has, and if the HF engine has a powerful enough alternator for it.
I was going to build my own exhaust for it as I hate these stock exhausts because they are too restrictive. My plan was to start with 1 in pipe joining to a 1.5 or 38 mm pipe and going out to a dirt bike muffler I’ve had in the garage forever and the stock exhaust is to high and in the wrong position for the hood.

My other concern was the wiring that’s one of the main reasons I came to ask questions because this mower has been finicky in the past if any fuse blows i’D be willing to rebuild any harness I need to I just really need to know what’s in the engine harness
 

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This a great project and I'm following it closely. I'm wondering if that engine and the adapter in the link you posted would work on a CC2166 that has a 16 hp single cyl. Kohler Command.... also will you have to modify the drive shaft length to allow crank side with pto clutch to line up with the mule drive?
Please keep us posted on this project along with pictures if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This a great project and I'm following it closely. I'm wondering if that engine and the adapter in the link you posted would work on a CC2166 that has a 16 hp single cyl. Kohler Command.... also will you have to modify the drive shaft length to allow crank side with pto clutch to line up with the mule drive?
Please keep us posted on this project along with pictures if possible.
I will do so it may be a week or two though before i post any updates because i head to Florida next week i hope to get this thing back running as soon as possible:tango_face_smile_bi
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s extracted (sorry bout the mess my garage is a lil full right now so I do not have much room)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I am back after my very extended leave of absence with a update😅
2449905
 

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That was a bit of a break, but it's excellent to see you back!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That was a bit of a break, but it's excellent to see you back!
thanks just had other things to do too cold really to work in the barn and there were cars in the garage didnt feel like moving stuff it is warm now so im back to working and the lawn needs mown and the john deer zero turn decided to crap a tranny at 59 hours for no apparent reason lol just bad luck i guess
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Pto adapter came in all I seem to need now is a engine
2450053
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I got more updates 😅
2450222
The new motor is here
2450223
Removed the blower cover and stock drive plate
2450224
Remember to locktite bolts you want to stay in red for permanent
2450225
the Kohler drive adapter before install
2450226
The drive adapter mounted
2450227
The drive hub that will be mounted to the adapter
2450228

The mounted drive hub this is the hardest part so far because when you thread the bolts in it feels like they are bout to strip out “they get real tight”.
2450231
The starter wired up
2450233
the engine sitting on the mounting plate not mounted yet. I have to make a .5-1 in spacer because the crankshaft sits lower on the predator then I have to mount the pto I have it sitting on there right now with the adapter inside. So what’s left now is killswitch wiring, electric clutch mounting and hook up I have to get new bolts for the drive because the old ones snapped when I removed them and I have to make a exhaust that will mount under the hood. possibly relocate the oil cooler to somewhere with fresh air, don’t want this one to overheat like the last one that got fubared 😂.
 

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You might want to visually check how much overlap the key for the pto has into each keyway (in the crankshaft and the electric pto pulley). Particularly if you need to use a stepped key, the commonly available ones have very little actual overlap, and will shear much easier than if they go further into each keyway.

I repowered a DR Power blower (part of a tow-behind vac setup), and current engines with the same size/power use 3/4" shafts vs the original 1", the stepped key I bought just barely went into the keyway of the fan, and sheared soon after I started using it. I found another stepped key that was slightly better (by 1/32") but decided to just make my own from a small chunk of steel, an end-mill in a drill press, and a x-y vise. The result was a full-depth key going into both the fan and the crankshaft, and hasn't sheared on me yet (but I haven't used it a lot since doing this last fall...).
 

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I got more updates 😅
View attachment 2450222 The new motor is here
View attachment 2450223 Removed the blower cover and stock drive plate
View attachment 2450224 Remember to locktite bolts you want to stay in red for permanent View attachment 2450225 the Kohler drive adapter before install
View attachment 2450226 The drive adapter mounted
View attachment 2450227 The drive hub that will be mounted to the adapter
View attachment 2450228
The mounted drive hub this is the hardest part so far because when you thread the bolts in it feels like they are bout to strip out “they get real tight”.
View attachment 2450231 The starter wired up View attachment 2450233 the engine sitting on the mounting plate not mounted yet. I have to make a .5-1 in spacer because the crankshaft sits lower on the predator then I have to mount the pto I have it sitting on there right now with the adapter inside. So what’s left now is killswitch wiring, electric clutch mounting and hook up I have to get new bolts for the drive because the old ones snapped when I removed them and I have to make a exhaust that will mount under the hood. possibly relocate the oil cooler to somewhere with fresh air, don’t want this one to overheat like the last one that got fubared 😂.
Nice work. Looking forward to seeing this thing up and running. Post a video if you can. I'd like to hear that Predator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You might want to visually check how much overlap the key for the pto has into each keyway (in the crankshaft and the electric pto pulley). Particularly if you need to use a stepped key, the commonly available ones have very little actual overlap, and will shear much easier than if they go further into each keyway.

I repowered a DR Power blower (part of a tow-behind vac setup), and current engines with the same size/power use 3/4" shafts vs the original 1", the stepped key I bought just barely went into the keyway of the fan, and sheared soon after I started using it. I found another stepped key that was slightly better (by 1/32") but decided to just make my own from a small chunk of steel, an end-mill in a drill press, and a x-y vise. The result was a full-depth key going into both the fan and the crankshaft, and hasn't sheared on me yet (but I haven't used it a lot since doing this last fall...).
it goes about 5/8ths the way in the keyway there is no side to side play. If it shears I'll get a new clutch but with the way cub cadet sets these electric clutches up the clutch piece itself has a fixed key there is no way to change it if there was I would but it does not seem possible. If I could afford it I'd just throw a new 1 in clutch on it
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Nice work. Looking forward to seeing this thing up and running. Post a video if you can. I'd like to hear that Predator.
I definitely will I had it running and starting up with the key but I have to figure out what wire is the kill wire on this predator wiring harness to hook it up with the kill wire that used to go to the ignition coils. I have already broken it in using some extra Motorcraft oil that I had left over changing the oil on my F-450 it sounds good but I still have to figure out a exhaust that works under the hood. I won't be using the stock throttle lever ill hook it up some other way because I'm tired of that pos that cabled ripped out the lever 4 times now and I have to tear the whole mower apart to get to it. and sorry about it being filthy when I tore it apart it was in the 30s and I did not want to clean it when the water would just freeze to it, I'll clean it when I get it moving lol
 

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Are you certain it's machined in, and not just a key that's stuck? I say this because I've had electric clutches like that, that I've thought it was machined in, but it came out when I went to reinstall it.

And, as a machining operation, it is WAY more expensive to machine a key like that, vs just a keyway and inserting a key...
 

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...and you may want to consider leaving the oil cooler where it is.

It's not perfect, in that the engine's fan blows air over the cylinder a bit before it exits through oil cooler, so it'll be a little warmer than ambient air temp, but it is a free source of forced air going through the cooler.

If you move the oil cooler somewhere else, you'll need to fab up a cover so you get proper airflow over the cylinder fins, and some way to force air through the oil cooler at the new spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Are you certain it's machined in, and not just a key that's stuck? I say this because I've had electric clutches like that, that I've thought it was machined in, but it came out when I went to reinstall it.

And, as a machining operation, it is WAY more expensive to machine a key like that, vs just a keyway and inserting a key...
Well it is all one piece I looked because I do have a key that's meant for an adapter it seems to be machined go to 0:37 in this video to see the piece I am talking about
the only way to fix this would be to get a clutch for a 1-inch crankshaft
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did not do very much today. I do not have any pictures phone was messed up. All I did was space the motor and drill new mount holes and get some longer bolts to fit it the 670 mount is set a little differently, so I lined the rear drive with the center of the 2 belt pulleys set some washers under it ((later I will make a mount but I don't have access to the plasma table right now)) that would have an ok driveshaft angle and drilled new mounting holes tomorrow I'm going to get some lock washers and lock nuts to mount the motor. Then finish up the electronics and engine belts and then possibly start putting it back together. I will show all the wiring I did and what I kept and what I didn't use.
 
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