My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 116 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm finally getting around to installing the auxiliary spool valves on my Cub Cadet 3235. I have the spool valves cleaned and repainted, new o-rings and I'm ready to reassemble them. I ordered new steel lines from Messick's and will hopefully have them in a week or so.
IMG_20201122_170610837_copy_2137x1603.jpg


I need to find some replacement quick couplings. I'm missing the male ends and the female ends I have are kinda rough. They are Parker SM-251-4FP, which are astronomically expensive.
IMG_20201122_170711678.jpg


I was planning on using these Pioneer (made by Parker) couplings from TSC. They have a lower PSI rating (3000 vs 6000) but still well above what the BDU-21 puts out. Anyone see any other (possibly better) alternatives?
037741.jpg


Also looking for a hydraulic ram for the power angling. Considering the factory unit is over $400, has anyone found an off the shelf cylinder that will work in it's place?
IMG_20201122_162501242_HDR_copy_2137x1603.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Also, don't get caught up in the bulkhead fittings. They are stupid expensive too. I made my own using short 1/4" nipples and couplers, and maybe a washer or two.

Bill
DSC_2745.JPG
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,994 Posts
Joe, list the pin to pin retracted length of the manual angle ram and the extended length with the plow in angle then list how long it CAN be retracted if mounting in a different spot as well as mounting pin diameters.

We need to know how short it needs to be retracted and long the stroke needs to be.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PA318Guy

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
Joe, list the pin to pin retracted length of the manual angle ram and the extended length with the plow in angle then list how long it CAN be retracted if mounting in a different spot as well as mounting pin diameters.

We need to know how short it needs to be retracted and long the stroke needs to be.
Joe I think that is going to be hard to find. I has to be x long and can only be x long. When I got my first hitch, it was not PA and I later got a PA hitch and took measurements to try to buy a cyl for the non PA hitch. I did quite a bit of searching and never found one that I though would work.

I thought I had started a thread about it here, but just did quick search and did not find it so?? I feel certain that I measured and started a thread, but possibly was on a different forum.

I have some PA cylinders that are not currently installed so I will try to measure and post dimensions here.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
I am going to post some photos, but don't have time right now to add a bunch of captions. Some stuff will be fairly self explanatory and I can add more info later if needed.

2481601


2481602


2481603


2481604


2481605


2481606


2481607
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
OEM PA cylinder

Approx. 2" diameter

.625" shaft

Body 9"

Center of pin is approx. 3/4" from end of cylinder body

Pin to pin compressed 10"

Pin to pin extended 15"

5" stroke
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
Since I had parts that were easy to access, I did some comparisons.

Bottom to top: PA Cyl, PS Cyl, Deck lift Cyl, Front Hitch lift Cyl
2481612
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the responses guys, much appreciated.

Joel do you have a spare power angle cylinder you'd be willing to part with?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,994 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
Thanks for all the responses guys, much appreciated.

Joel do you have a spare power angle cylinder you'd be willing to part with?
I don't think so, at least not at this time. I have more hitches/blades than I have PA cylinders and I think(if I ever start selling stuff) I could probably get quite a bit more for a PA setup.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
What do you think here Joel? 2x5x1.

I think that is close but...

IIRC I found that when I was trying to find one a while back.

That cyl is 2 1/4" diameter and the channel where it would go is only slightly over 2". Pin bores are oversize. Not saying that with enough mods to the hitch/cyl, it could not be used, but...

2481628


Very little excess space where the pin goes.

2481629
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
With significant modifications, it might be feasible to use a PS Cyl as a PA Cyl. Would not be exactly like the OEM Cyl, but PS Cyls are cheap and if you can weld, you would have very little cost involved.

Aside from the work/expense, these are things to consider.

PA Cyl has 5/8" shaft and 5" stroke.

PS Cyl has 1/2" shaft and 4" stroke.

Would need to weld ends on the cylinder and the shaft.

My guess is that a 1/2" shaft would be strong enough.

1" less stroke would reduce range of motion, but if you are like me, you probably would only use with the blade straight or with it angled to the right, more than 90% of the time. If so, you could construct so that it would have full range to one side, but very little to the other.

If I needed a PA Cyl I think I would try converting a PS Cyl to work.

2481631


2481632


Cyl is approx. 1/4" smaller in diameter.
2481633


2481634


2481635


NOTE: These cylinders are welded at the factory so I do not see any reason why you could not do additional welding to make modifications, as long as you took steps, such as keeping seals as far from the welding as possible and partially submerging in water/oil while welding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the help guys. I picked up some fittings at tractor supply today. I bought all they had on the shelf, still need to get one more.
IMG_20201123_171626039.jpg
IMG_20201123_171652181.jpg
IMG_20201123_171714096.jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,994 Posts
IDK if these are single acting or double acting but I'd be calling Bailey to find out. Is it possible to move one of the mounts back 2" to allow for a 2" longer cylinder? 12" retracted.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
912 Posts
IDK if these are single acting or double acting but I'd be calling Bailey to find out. Is it possible to move one of the mounts back 2" to allow for a 2" longer cylinder? 12" retracted.

Pretty sure it is single action. Specs say that the rod diameter is the same as the bore diameter.

It can be done, but would require a LOT of work and is not reasonably feasible.

IIRC there is only about 1/4" clearance on the front, 2" on the front would protrude way through the front of the mount. Very little space at the rear also, 2" on the rear would be well into the tube(perhaps through) the tube/pipe that the hitch pivots up and down on.

"ports 90 degrees apart" would also be an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Pretty sure it is single action. Specs say that the rod diameter is the same as the bore diameter.

It can be done, but would require a LOT of work and is not reasonably feasible.

IIRC there is only about 1/4" clearance on the front, 2" on the front would protrude way through the front of the mount. Very little space at the rear also, 2" on the rear would be well into the tube(perhaps through) the tube/pipe that the hitch pivots up and down on.

"ports 90 degrees apart" would also be an issue.
Dang, why couldn't they have just used an off the shelf hydraulic cylinder?

Sure you don't want to sell one to me Joel? Spit me a number, worst I can say is no.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,937 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Well I got as much done today as I can until the lines come in the mail. The valves are reassembled with new o rings and I repainted the bracket for the bulkhead connectors.
IMG_20201124_155532377_HDR.jpg


One of the spool valves decided it isn't gonna go back together. The spool wouldn't go back into the bore. I took some fine emery paper and ran it over both the spool and bore a few times to knock down any burrs, but it had no effect. I ran it in the ultrasonic and once again, nothing happened. Eventually I used a brass hammer and forced it in, but it was way too tight. I know I put the right spool into the right body, I numbered them and marked them.

IMG_20201124_154906917.jpg
IMG_20201124_154956317.jpg


Not a big deal because I would've had an extra valve anyways, so I'll just reuse the one that is currently on the tractor.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,994 Posts
Well I got as much done today as I can until the lines come in the mail. The valves are reassembled with new o rings and I repainted the bracket for the bulkhead connectors.
View attachment 2481766

One of the spool valves decided it isn't gonna go back together. The spool wouldn't go back into the bore. I took some fine emery paper and ran it over both the spool and bore a few times to knock down any burrs, but it had no effect. I ran it in the ultrasonic and once again, nothing happened. Eventually I used a brass hammer and forced it in, but it was way too tight. I know I put the right spool into the right body, I numbered them and marked them.

View attachment 2481764 View attachment 2481765

Not a big deal because I would've had an extra valve anyways, so I'll just reuse the one that is currently on the tractor.
That happened to me and another member on here as well. Mine went back together by hand just fine with no force required then the next day it was tight and wouldn't budge. I ended up pounding the spool out and it was galled like yours.

I chucked my spool in the drill press and turned it smooth with sandpaper then wrapped sticky back sandpaper around a rod and chucked it up in the drill press and ran it into the spool body bore until it was smooth. Put it on the 3240 and it's been fine ever since.

I have no idea why this happens but I told you about it awhile back. I think it has to do with the wear pattern they set up over time.
 
1 - 20 of 116 Posts
Top