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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, was given a late 90's Cub Cadet, a 2150 AGS. It does not start / doesn't do anything when you turn the key. I can hear relays clicking on and off. Setting the brake and doing the proper startup procedure does nothing.

I can turn the switch to "on", and jump the starter with a screwdriver to make the motor turn over, but it won't run. If i give the carb a shot of carb cleaner / ether, it will run for 5-10 seconds before dying.

Does this model have any type of fuel pump, etc., that could be tied into one of the million safety switches? It got dark on me today but my next step was to pull the carburetor and check and see if all is well. If it is, then i'm really not sure what to do, as I am no good at troubleshooting electrical, and from what i understand a lot of people had the safety switches fail on them, killing their mowers. I see these on FB all the time for very cheap, and the owners seem to be reporting the same issue. Thanks guys!
 

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I would bet that you have a series of dirty connections....if you can get every one apart, cleaned an reassembled it will probably work fine or you could try using Brads starter relay assist..that does not bypass any of the safety switches, but does overcome the failure caused by bad connections..if you need a link to the instructions for this relay let me know....being that it dos die after a short run does sound like a carb problem also...probably caused by old fuel sitting in it
 

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Check the fuel shutoff solenoid, if this model doesn't have one, screw the main jet needle valve all the way in and then back it out 2 turns. Many times if a mower has sat long enough to evaporate all the gas in the carb a blockage of the main jet is created by residue. Screwing the jet in will break that residue blockage.

That might address the not continuing to run after jumping the starter. ALL connections are suspect in a system that hasn't run for a while. Start at the battery and clean and replace questionable connectors. Also watch for wire that seems to have a swell inside it - this is a sign of internal wire corrosion and this is usually a complete stoppage of electrical flow. Or at least enough resistance to stop things from working.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tonight i jumped it off the starter with the screwdriver, and the engine fired up. I'm not sure if adding the fresh gas yesterday evening and all of the cranking could have freed something up in the carburetor. Still have absolutely nothing with the key switch. Turning it to "ON" i can hear the relays click on and off, and the headlights come on, but turning it to "start" does nothing. Interestingly though, turning the key back to "off" will kill the motor, so it's like the switch is still partially working.

I started it again with the screwdriver and let the engine run for 5 minutes before getting on it to go driving around. It drives just fine. PTO / mower deck, etc.. works fine. I do truly wonder if the when the key switch stopped working, that is when the PO gave up on the mower, not having the skills / knowledge to pursue it any further. The hour meter says 216 hours, so if that is valid, i feel like i have gotten a real steal (it was already free) if I can get it reliably operating. Do you guys have much knowledge about these models? Were they very good / durable? Were they P.O.S.'s?

I guess i need to isolate all of the safety switches and temporarily bypass them for the sake of testing. I know of three, the seat switch, brake, and PTO. Seat switch has already been disabled by previous owner, leaving only brake switch and PTO switch. Are there others i could have missed? I want to make sure i don't have a switch acting up before I spend money to replace the key switch, OR, have my neighbor wire in a push button / universal ignition switch because i have no knowledge whatsoever concerning electrical.
 

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Rather than jumping the starter, try jumping the starter solenoid. If the solenoid is bad (the connections internally burn) it would act like you are describing.

Bill
 
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