cub cadet 107 wiring issue

I think Karma is punishing you because you downright "stoled" those tractors and attachments! Even if only 1 of the two tractors works, you've got a good parts tractor to keep the one running...

I don't know the old models (and just barely understand the new ones) but I'm sure someone experienced with that vintage will be along shortly to help.

If you're saying the tractor won't even turn over without jumper cables I'd suspect a bad battery, but that seems sort of obvious so I assume you mean something else (will turn over with own battery but no spark at plug unless jumped?) which is a little more mysterious...

I'd start with the starter/ generator and just swap it from one tractor to the the other if that doesn't make it run then swap the voltage regulators, just don't do both at the same time or you'll never know which one was bad.

If it only runs with Jumper cables how is the battery on the tractor? If it is good (or 12 volts) it is wierd that jumper cables are needed to make it run.. If you are hooking the black or ground cable to the frame then your problem is a bad/dirty ground connection between your battery & the tractor.. Good Luck!

okay thanks guys. the boosters are going right to the battery so the ground connection is good. is there a way i can test the regulator and the generator with a tester???
thanks
nathan

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/73_147service.pdf

In regards to your testing the regulator question above- Whenever the tractor is running the voltage reading at the battery should increase to over 13 volts but under 14.5 volts. That is the only test I am aware of.. If the battery is good- (load-tested OK) the regulator is usually the culprit..

Nathan...Did you get those tractors in Owen Sound?...There was a couple of those advertised there.........

ya those are the ones lol i forgot there was a member close to home. well have to get together some time and check out eachothers fleet. it is cub cadet theme year at the heritage farm this year so i would like to finish them by then



anyway i replaced the generator and the regulator and still same problemo. i also started replacing some wires with no effect so any suggestions are greatly appreciated
thanks
nathan

nathan2034 said:

anyway i replaced the generator and the regulator and still same problemo. i also started replacing some wires with no effect so any suggestions are greatly appreciated
thanks
nathan

Click to expand...

Have you replaced the battery yet?

shouldnt have too. an engine doesnt need a battery too run. just replaced a whole wack of wires and still no change??? wtf???

nathan2034 said:

shouldnt have too. an engine doesnt need a battery too run. just replaced a whole wack of wires and still no change??? wtf???

Click to expand...

They don't? That's news to me. My 102 is a conventional coil/ battery ignition, so unless the generator is charging, IT NEEDS A BATTERY to run, and it's VERY hard on systems (in general) to NOT have a battery hooked up. On older rigs, burned points and burned out lights can result. AND if you ever idle it down below the charging speed of the generator/ alternator, it will die.

okay i didnt know that i used to run a tractor all the time with no battery but this is my first tractor with points so maybe it does need one could this be the case??? if so i feel kinda lik an idiot lol

I just wonder if both of your generators, or both regulators may be bad....Did you put a meter on the generator while it was running?..Is there an amp gauge on the tractor?

no amp gauge. where should the meter be hooked too?? am i right about the battery poncho???

If the generator is charging, it will run without a battery, not recommended though..........You need to get a voltmeter and hook it to the battery...If its charging, you should see 13-14.5 volts when its running. Since it dies, I am sure you will only see the 12 volts of the battery........Then go back to the input of the regulator and see what you get....If more than 12 volts, the regulator is bad....sometimes tapping it will make it operate, there are points that open and close on the older ones, they may be dirty.....Newer regulators have a printed curcuit.

okay thanks for the info i will do some more checking tomorrow and repost
thanks for all the help
nathan

Get a hot battery in that thing and quit fartin around. Then get a decent test light and a wiring diagram. So you can diaignose the problem.

The processor in my other computer burnt out and I haven't got everything switched over to this one yet, so I can't post you the links that you need to get you going right now. Someone else should be around shortly who has them handy and they will fix you up.

Go here, http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/index.php and you should be able to find out what you need to know...

the thing is i cant afford to put a good battery in there just to have it drained and wrecked.