[B440]

I picked up an 1864 recently from FB Marketplace. The description didn't mention the model, but I spied this from the pic. (This is my pic. Seller's pic was from far away and hard to see.)

Power steering! Which I do not have for any of my current machines. I picked it up in the middle of a rainstorm, with no front wheels, just as you see it. :00000060: The 54" deck had to be removed first. and we winched it onto the trailer.

The seller said the engine would run.... but you know how that goes. It's a Kohler Command V-twin. When I got some free time, I put some oil in, hooked up the charger/starter, and fired some starter fluid down the carburetor. It ran! He wasn't kidding.

So the next day I went to the mower repair/boneyard and they just happen to have an 1862 or 3 with everything but the engine. I bought the front wheels and bolts.

I got it running well enough to go for a ride. I think the fuel in the tank was bad. I changed out the oil and filter. and drove around the yard. Love it!

Now on to the issues:
1.) Reverse wasn't very fast and it failed my test hill going up in reverse. There was hardly any oil in the transaxle. I added a quart and it brought it to the Low mark. Not sure if it is leaking?

2.) The lever for hydraulic deck up/down seemed to be frozen, but I gave it a little tappa-tappa from the back side and it works now.

3.) It is a filthy, oily mess! The engine leaks oil just sitting there. It peed on my garage floor and I had to lay down rags.

4.) The hood mounts are broken. Here are two pics of it just kind of sitting on there.

So I need to pull the engine and find the leak, or leaks. Then investigate changing the transaxle oil and fixing slow reverse. If I'm successful with everything I want to do, then this tractor will replace my John Deere 212 which has full-time garden duty.

 

[B440]

The 1864 needs a plow to replace the 212, and I was having trouble finding something that would fit. Now a 1440 pops up for sale, with a plow, so that appeared to be a no-brainer. :tango_face_grin: It also came with a 42" deck, but no pic of that.

This one has a 14hp Briggs Vanguard. Seller said it ran when using a gravity-fuel tank. He also said not to fill the original tank because the petcock seals were leaking. I noted these issues and proceeded to fire up the engine. It ran on starter fluid but not the gravity tank that I added. I did notice this strange wire not connected to anything.

It appeared to be going to the anti-backfire solenoid on the carb. I tried putting power to it but heard no click from the ABS. Just for fun I unscrewed the ABS just a little (fuel was leaking out), and then cranked the engine; it ran! I drove it around for a bit. Forward and reverse worked great. Steering was a little stiff compared to the 1864 but I guess that's to be expected :tango_face_wink:

So I stopped there and pulled the engine and cleaned it. The valve covers had been leaking oil for quite some time. I resealed the valve covers with Threebond.

The hood is marginally better than the 1864. The mounts aren't broken, but there has been many repairs done to the inner structure. I guess it will become a donor for parts. I will say that if I had bought the 1440 first, it would also replace the JD 212. Here is what it looks like currently.

I'm thinking the Vanguard engine will go in the 1864 while I find the leaks on the Kohler.

 

[B440]

Here is the greasy, oily mess of an 1864.

Shot of the Kohler engine before cleaning.

Found a missing exhaust stud :tango_face_sad:

After cleaning. I only used an electric low-power washer. Some of the oil is baked on and may require scrubbin' to remove.

It was much dirtier before. Hmm, I see a clue?

Closer inspection. Case bolt. I can turn it in either direction by hand.

So I'm wondering if the case gasket is the only leak? It would certainly be the reason oil leaks while the tractor sits. I'm definitely going to run the Vanguard while I fix all the issues on the Kohler.

I pulled the tractor out and power washed it. I thought I was done until I removed the panel covering the cooling fan.

There was oil on everything in there. The fan was black. The filter was black. So much oil! Mostly clean now.

Since I had gone this far, I removed the fender and fuel tank.

I did notice sloppy white RTV at the joints of the transaxle, so I suspect someone has opened it before. Well at least it is clean now and I will be able to see the potential leaks better.

Does anyone know if I could use this output shaft for a PTO? I would love to have a 3-point hitch and PTO.

A few questions; Is this the plug to use for draining the hydrostatic fluid? Can I use 5W-50 synthetic to refill? How many quarts? And what is the filter number?

 

[Cannon51]

I used a Wix 51410 n my 1863 transaxle and a Stens 120-265 on my 1641. There is a list of recommended filters here. Removing the filter will drain the pump and differential or remove the rear cover. https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12&highlight=filter
I used this "Meets the Requirements of" fluid in my transmission https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...al-tractor-trans-hydraulic-fluid?cm_vc=IOPDP1
I've had to clean the fuel tank petcocks on both mine, there in the bottom of the tank and get clogged up sometimes.
The nose piece of the hood is broken on both of mine, I've patched them up with limited success.
Cannon

 

[Sergeant]

Here is the greasy, oily mess of an 1864.

Shot of the Kohler engine before cleaning.

Found a missing exhaust stud :tango_face_sad:

After cleaning. I only used an electric low-power washer. Some of the oil is baked on and may require scrubbin' to remove.

It was much dirtier before. Hmm, I see a clue?

Closer inspection. Case bolt. I can turn it in either direction by hand.

So I'm wondering if the case gasket is the only leak? It would certainly be the reason oil leaks while the tractor sits. I'm definitely going to run the Vanguard while I fix all the issues on the Kohler.

I pulled the tractor out and power washed it. I thought I was done until I removed the panel covering the cooling fan.

There was oil on everything in there. The fan was black. The filter was black. So much oil! Mostly clean now.

Since I had gone this far, I removed the fender and fuel tank.

I did notice sloppy white RTV at the joints of the transaxle, so I suspect someone has opened it before. Well at least it is clean now and I will be able to see the potential leaks better.

Does anyone know if I could use this output shaft for a PTO? I would love to have a 3-point hitch and PTO.

A few questions; Is this the plug to use for draining the hydrostatic fluid? Can I use 5W-50 synthetic to refill? How many quarts? And what is the filter number?

Well MTD didn't set Up this tractor to run a rear PTO only Cat 0 3point Hitch. You would Have to Look at How MTD ran the Supers Garden tractors rear 2000RPM PTO Kit Because I Know the Supers used the same Transmission That was Found In the standard Garden tractor which you have But MTD Never Intended the Standard Garden tractor to run a Rear PTO They Made a 8HP 3 point Mounted Tiller for the 1864 :thThumbsU

 

[B440]

I was trying to figure out how to operate the plow using the hydraulic deck control when the 1440 hooks the plow up to the lever.

On the 1864 there's this thing which I thought was plastic and only there to show the deck height.

I flipped it around and realized it's steel and could be used for plow actuation. I'll have to figure the rest out later. Must do engine work first.

Something I noticed about the Kohler; The engine mount bolts are larger and in a different location from the Briggs. Kohler shown below.

Briggs bolts on the 1440.

So The whole mounting plate had to be removed to get the front bolts out. Ugh, more oily mess.

The Vanguard engine needs a diode on each coil kill wire so they can't interfere with each other. I had to remake my harness. The original harness was completely busted.

Much better. I'm trying to sort out any wiring issues before everything goes back together. It's much easier to access stuff when the engine is out of the tractor.

I also replaced the battery terminals. They were pretty beat up and not making good connections.

Here is something I've wanted to do for all my tractors. Critter-proofing.

Both engines have seen problems with mice nests. I'm hoping this prevents any future problems. It's much harder to remove the cooling shroud on a horizontal engine vs. a vertical.

The cooling shroud is back on and I just need to install the exhaust heat shields. Then the engine can go back in. That's as much as I felt like doing today.

 

[Cat385B]

Good idea on rodent proofing, I like that.

 

[B440]

Got the oil changed.

7 quarts and a filter. :tango_face_surprise

I placed the engine on the frame and realized the driveshaft was too short. I needed to pull the 1440 driveshaft and swap.

This is where I left off last night.

Today I finally tackled the last electrical connections.

I connected the kill wire, fuel solenoid power, and the alternator. The other two are taped off for now. I'll hook them up some other time.

I tried to start the engine and no-go. Two problems; the pulse line for the fuel pump was cracked, and the fuel solenoid is junk. I fiddled with it and thought I had it fixed, but I finally ended up cutting the plunger.

It starts, runs, and is clean enough to see leaks, which I found. How much work is it to fix this? It appears to be coming from the seal at the top of the steering.

Also, how do I make reverse faster? I was in full reverse (so slow) and pushed on the spring and it went faster! Any tricks to this? Do I need a different plate as shown below?

 

[racerdon08]

Hello, I also have an 1864 that was given to me. It has engine problems,( I think it was run without oil). I picked up another moter, but I haven't started working on it yet. I have only ever had Craftsman riders, so the Cub Cadet is new to me, and it seems like it is more heavy duty, but I know nothing about them. I have been trying tp locate a service manual, but have not found any yet. I seem to keep hitting road blocks when I try searching.
I just read over what you have been doing with yours, but the last that I found was from 6/4/2019. I'd be interested in following your progress. You also seem to be lucky, having a mower scrap yard at your disposal. I haven't found any ot them here in Pa.
on this tracter that I got, it seems like there is no power to the starter. I jumped the starter, and used starting fluid to see what I got. It started, but it popped a little and I shut it down. I did find two white wires coming out from the motor that are cut and I can't find any place for them to go. One of the things I was told was that when ever they went to use it, they had to jump the starter, and it never seemed to charge the battery, making me think that the white wires have something to do with that.I've taken up enough of your time, so I will wait and watch for your next posts!

 

[B440]

Put your model and serial in here PDF Manual Web Archive

It should have a wiring diagram. The wires are color-coded. White may be the kill wire, but check and confirm.

 

[Cannon51]

Hello, I also have an 1864 that was given to me. It has engine problems,( I think it was run without oil). I picked up another moter, but I haven't started working on it yet. I have only ever had Craftsman riders, so the Cub Cadet is new to me, and it seems like it is more heavy duty, but I know nothing about them. I have been trying tp locate a service manual, but have not found any yet. I seem to keep hitting road blocks when I try searching.
I just read over what you have been doing with yours, but the last that I found was from 6/4/2019. I'd be interested in following your progress. You also seem to be lucky, having a mower scrap yard at your disposal. I haven't found any ot them here in Pa.
on this tracter that I got, it seems like there is no power to the starter. I jumped the starter, and used starting fluid to see what I got. It started, but it popped a little and I shut it down. I did find two white wires coming out from the motor that are cut and I can't find any place for them to go. One of the things I was told was that when ever they went to use it, they had to jump the starter, and it never seemed to charge the battery, making me think that the white wires have something to do with that.I've taken up enough of your time, so I will wait and watch for your next posts!

The 2 white wires are probably the stator but there are other white wires on some of the engines. The wires on my index finger are from the stator and go to the outside pins of the voltage regulator. I believe this link http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/sm_24_690_06.pdf will take you to a place to download the PDF engine manual.
Cannon

 

[B440]

Six months later..... and I cleaned the garage well enough to pull a tractor in!

I procrastinated because I knew the Vanguard engine had blown head gaskets and I wasn't looking forward to removing said engine... again. But here we are!

While I was pulling the exhaust, I noticed these metal rings in the outlets. I removed them. In hind sight, I wonder if removing them caused the full throttle surging I am currently experiencing?

I didn't get too many pics of actual details as my hands were mostly filthy, so I really just snapped pics whenever I took a break. There's two more engines on the floor I've also been working on; The original Kohler Command V-twin which was leaking oil from the loose case cover. I resealed the case, but I also had to retap two bolt holes and fix loose exhaust studs. The last is a Kohler Command single from a compressor. It runs, but is missing the throttle linkage. I may put that in a custom ice racer later.

Ok, two new head gaskets and all the associated stuff that goes with it (complete kit from ebay). I took my time to clean up as much baked on oil as possible and also lap the head sealing surfaces. I also changed out the driveshaft coupling seal for one that hadn't been chewed on by mice.

Back in the tractor. I left the large cooling shield off this time. It will make removing the cooling shroud easier if a mouse makes a nest. What else did I fix: Adjusted the front wheels so they were toe-in instead of toe-out. Not that the tractor cares because it has power steering, but the tires should wear a little less now. Foot rests went back on too.

Time to add the plow!

Yes I used a chain to allow the blade to float. It rubs a bit on the frame, but works great overall! I'll need to make a new edge for the blade later.

Can't forget the tire chains. Eventually this tractor will get R1's and V61's just like the 212.

I went in the back yard and pushed some dirt around. The ground keeps thawing out where the sun shines on these 40+ degree days. I'm pretty happy with how she operates, but the lever control has me doing some, uh, learning, lol.

I put the tunnel cover from the 1440 on since it was metal. Not sure why the 1864's was all plastic (and broken).

Broke the e-brake bolt while making adjustments, so I had to make a new one.

BAM!!! The picture you've been waiting for! The custom-fit hood from a Sears/Craftsman GTV16.

So the story goes: I have two hoods from the 1864 and 1440, and they are both junk piles. Such brittle plastic. The 1440 was sort-of usable, but it already had repairs done to it. A friend gave me (or traded, can't remember? Link to his projects; ZooRatedProductions) two GTV's with hoods and I like the looks of the older GT series.

The GTV is a little narrower and I needed the nose a bit forward so I made this bracket. Also you should know that I'm on a tight budjet so I managed to find all scrap metal, brackets, nuts/bolts, etc. from my parts bins.

The fiberglass hood will need trimming at the edge. I'll do that outside some other time as it makes a lot of dust that I don't care to breathe.

I repurposed the brackets from the cooling shield to secure the hood.

The hood is solid as a rock now.

So that's it for now. I have a functional tractor. It definitely needs paint, but no painting for me when temps are below 50. What color should the hood be?

 

[rudedawg]

Enjoyable thread and I like your custom fit hood. Some of the JD folks who have broken/cracked plastic hoods could follow your lead maybe something like this:?

 

[MARK (LI)]

You did some job...I admire your tenacity...and your knowledge ?

 

[B440]

Enjoyable thread and I like your custom fit hood. Some of the JD folks who have broken/cracked plastic hoods could follow your lead maybe something like this:?

Hey that looks like pretty good fitment! Is that a GT345?

You did some job...I admire your tenacity...and your knowledge ?

Thank you. A lot of the knowledge came from this forum. Ha, I do get sick of seeing unfinished projects as I walk past them every day, thinking about how I'm going to fix, modify, or upgrade it.

 

[rudedawg]

Hey that looks like pretty good fitment! Is that a GT345?

No clue, just threw the pic out there.??

 

[Steve Urquell]

Ha! That's awesome with the Craftsman hood. I've always liked the hood on the FFs.
I'd paint it yellow Rustolem Marigold below the heavy line and Rustoleum 2X Almond above that which is pretty close to CC beige.

 

[B440]

Edges of the hood trimmed to fully clear the deck lift lever and somewhat match the dash profile. I did it freehand with a 4" cutting disc, so it's not perfect.

I also put the grille on after making a hole for the exhaust. Not much else done today. It was freezing rain all day.

 

[rudedawg]

That looks close enough to "store bought" to me, good job.
Most everything I try to fab these days turn out to be ash trays.?

 

[PA318Guy]

You asked if you could use the output shaft on the rear of the Hydro pump for a PTO. Since it looks to be the Sustrand 15 series so I would think you could. JD's use an electric PTO clutch that connects to that to control it to the rear of the machine and I don't see why one wouldn't work on it. You of course would have to make an opening to allow the shaft to come out the rear though. Here is a link to the JD parts page for the clutch