[2000GX]

My son was recently given a Cub '127 which we now have running to a point where we need to decide whether to pursue further restoration, or concentrate our efforts into something else.

I'm not worried about sandblasting, or refurbing the engine, which still runs fairly well, but I am concerned about the hydro-- How well do they hold up on these models, are there any common failures we should be aware of, and should the forward speed be variable/adjustable (ie, can it be set to drive slow)?

Reason I ask about the latter is that right now when I move the handle slightly into the "F" range, it immediately moves on its own up to full-speed. Is this normal, or a sign of hydro wear?

Second question--the wiring harness was trashed when we got the tractor, and I noticed on the print that there is supposed to be a neutral-safety switch in the scheme. After a bit of looking I located it under the tractor, disconnected electrically, and it doesn't appear that either the brake linkage, nor hydro linkage, contacts the switch. I'm assuming something has been removed--what activates the switch?

Thanks!

 

[joeharley]

The hydro's in these older cubs are some of the best there are. They will run problem free for almost ever, with the proper fluid and filters. There are 2 frictions disks on the hydro control, they are probably worn out. Change those out and it should hold speed. Not sure were the safety switch mounts on the 127. Either under the brake pedal or on the brake peddle main shaft. I would invest in a service manual. It will have all that info in it.

A 127 was my first cub. It was a good machine. Wish I still had it.

 

[Cub Cadet Head]

I am concerned about the hydro-- How well do they hold up on these models, are there any common failures we should be aware of, and should the forward speed be variable/adjustable (ie, can it be set to drive slow)?

Reason I ask about the latter is that right now when I move the handle slightly into the "F" range, it immediately moves on its own up to full-speed. Is this normal, or a sign of hydro wear?

Second question--the wiring harness was trashed when we got the tractor, and I noticed on the print that there is supposed to be a neutral-safety switch in the scheme. After a bit of looking I located it under the tractor, disconnected electrically, and it doesn't appear that either the brake linkage, nor hydro linkage, contacts the switch. I'm assuming something has been removed--what activates the switch?

Other than towing one without pressing the relief valves, I'm not sure what you would have to do to tear one up. I've had them so hot that they wouldn't move, I've had water in them freeze and they wouldn't move, I have one that almost every time I use it, I slam it back and forth from reverse to forward in order to slide/bounce the front end around, I've had them sliding downhill with one tire turning forward and the other turning backward, I've had them sliding forward downhill with BOTH TIRES turning backward, and I've pulled trailer loads of wood that were so heavy my Brother had to set on the hood to keep the front wheels on the ground. Other than that, my hydros don't get much abuse, UNTIL IT SNOWS, that's when we run the "snot" out of them.

Other than replacing the occasional pin in the front coupler and doing several trunnion repairs, I've never had a hydro related failure or repair.

Sorry I can't tell you how durable they are, I've never been able to break one.

The switch is activated by a spring steel actuator mounted on the foot pedal rockshaft.


If you want/need to repair your trunnion, go here.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...union#post9162

Then go here.

http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html

And finally here.

http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

Then after you get that fixed you will need to go here.

http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

I think that should pretty-much take care of it.


Seriously, I've been abusing my hydrostatic IH built Cub Cadets for over 20 years, other than changing fluid and filters, I've never had to "open one up".
BTW, FWIW, I have 3 123's, a 105, 2 125's, a 109 and a 149. Lord knows, in my younger days I tried, but I just couldn't seem to break one.

 

[2000GX]

Thanks very much for the info, very glad to hear the hydro is as stout as we had hoped it was.

We'll have to keep poking around for info on the neutral safety switch--the linkage doesn't seem to show up in any of the mechanical parts drawings for the '127 (Partstree), only the switch itself on a print for the electrical system.

 

[RBedell]

YUP...I agree with CCH.

I have torn a couple Hydro's down for a couple of people. They are really rugged. People go to Plow Day Events and plow with Cubs (w/hydros) all day long. I have pulled a 3/4T 4x4 pickup with mine. Unless there is some massive abuse, they hold up. Of course good maintenance should be done with Oil and Filter changes as recommended.

You can also click on this link.... Hydro

The Neutral Safety Switch is designed to allow the motor to start only when the Brake Pedal is fully depressed.

 

[mmzullo]

Everyone gave you good advice. But If it was me and this is only my opinion I wouldn't restore a 127 I would go with an earlier models. They are worth more and of course you going to put more money in it then they are worth.
I have a 127 and it is a TANK!!! But it is butt ungly from the PO paint but if I give it a paint job I wouldn'y use it like I do.
Just my $.02

 

[2000GX]

Still can't seem to find what's supposed to be pushing in the plunger on the neutral safety switch.

The parts diagram (below) shows a clip, #16, described as a "clip; safety switch release lever". I wouldn't guess that this clip is what pushes the switch in--it looks a bit lightweight for something like that. But I also don't see anything missing on the brake pedal shaft. It still has the OEM gold paint on it and I don't see any discolorations where a linkage or clip may have once been. ?

Anyone with a '127 and a working neutral-safety switch able to provide any info? You should be able to see it from the right-hand side of the tractor, through the slot where the implement/deck lift lever is at.

Thanks!

 

[Cub Cadet Head]

You are correct in thinking that part #16 is the part you are looking for. And yes, it is thin, however it is made from what one might call "spring steel", it has a LOT of flex to it. The illustration is a little confusing, the hook end of the "clip" goes around the rock-shaft and the other end pushes the plunger on the switch. Without going out to look, if I'm not mistaken there should be a hole in the hook end of the clip and a spiral pin in the rock-shaft. The spiral pin keeps the clip from sliding/turning/spinning on the shaft. I also believe that clip gets rusty on each side of that hole and that is often times where it breaks, if not there it will break about midway in the bend closest to the flat area.

A "jumper wire" can be used across the orange/black orange wire ends to bypass the switch. However I don't recommend doing that permanently, if a youngster or inexperienced operator is going to be using the machine.

 

[2000GX]

Thanks very much for the confirmation--looks like the part is still available.

I'm okay with having functional safety gear on these rigs. I'd like to add a seat/kill switch if I can find a DIY, or replacement seat with a switch membrane inside.