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Discussion Starter #1
There is a CC 122 for sale about 4 hrs away from me. it looks pretty decent in the photo but not restored. I have heard from the forum that these older cubs are overbuilt and super tractors. I want to know what to expect in that model.

Is this a garden tractor? What kind of transmission? what engine? What is the drive system; shaft drive with short belt? What kind of PTO for the deck?
The ad says the seat padding is gone - I assume it is a steel seat that had a foam pad and plastic cover. It looks like original paint with some surface rust where body panels join, but generally good looking and straight.

What are the weak or wear points I should look for? How available are parts like bearings and spindles?

Is $450 a decent price for a 122 that "runs good" with a "recently rebuilt engine"?

thanks for any info.
 

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MTF Junior Poster Esq.
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Is this a garden tractor? Most definately..12hp
What kind of transmission? 3 speed with reverse
what engine? 112hp kohler
What is the drive system; shaft drive with short belt? Shaft drive with automotive style clutch, no belt...used in most garden tractor competition pullers.

What kind of PTO for the deck? manual PTO pack on front shaft, bald drive to deck.

The ad says the seat padding is gone - I assume it is a steel seat that had a foam pad and plastic cover. Lots of them had fiberglass pan with padding. Aftermarket seats will work.

It looks like original paint with some surface rust where body panels join, but generally good looking and straight.

What are the weak or wear points I should look for? How available are parts like bearings and spindles? All available.

Is $450 a decent price for a 122 that "runs good" with a "recently rebuilt engine"?

Yes. Decks very prone to rust, but many replacements around. This is a "narrow frame" and needs narrow frame accessorys.

They went to a wider frame later to fit the bigger 16hp engines. drivetrains were the same.
You cannot till with a 3 speed unless it has the optional "creeper gear". Otherwise it can do about anything and never break.

$450 is a good price for a good one. Check steering play. Not a deal breaker if it is loose, and some slop is adjustable out of the steering gearbox.

I have a 122, a 124 and a 125. 125 is hydro and can till since it can slow to any speed.
 

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Wow.. that is of course 12hp not 112hp.

Don't let the tiny 12hp throw you. They did more with 12hp back then than the 20hps can do now. Plowing, disking and cultivating day by day.
Economy tractors ran 60" decks all day with the 14hp kohlers and Yazoo ran 60" decks with 12hp wisconsins.
 

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You will be hard pressed to find a tougher, more durable garden tractor than ANY of the older Cub Cadets. These little tractors were made with the same transaxle that the much larger Farmall Cubs had, these are the transaxle of choice used by modern day competition pullers.

The Cub Cadet 122 used a Kohler K 301, 12 hp engine. By today’s standards 12 hp doesn't sound like very much, but rest assured 12 hp of "K" series engine, is more power than you will find in ANY new machine of comparable size. To give you an idea, there are many Cub Cadet tractors out there with 7 hp Kohler engines that are pulling a plow as we speak.

As stated above Cub Cadets are regularly used for plowing, disking, tilling, and other types of ground engaging work, along with cutting grass, pushing snow, powering generators, and chipper/shredders. These little tractors are as versatile as the day is long.

The 122 that you described originally came with a fiberglass seat bucket covered in padded vinyl, they are a little hard to come by these days, but regular universal replacement seats are readily available at your local farm store.

As far as a "weak point" goes, I would say that the only weak point is previous owner neglect. If all Cub Cadets were properly maintained for the last 40 years there wouldn't be any $450.00 Cub Cadets for sale today.

Parts that wear, like bearings, bushings, clutch disks, belts, and other such maintenance items are available from our sponsors, many other online sources and your local Case tractor dealer. Other parts, hood, fenders that may become broken, bent or what have you, can be found on online auctions. Right now if you search ebay under "Cub Cadet" you will find nearly 2600 parts for Cub Cadets alone. So finding whatever you need should not be a problem.

I live in mid state Illinois, and have driven to Michigan, Wisconsin, Indiana, Ohio, Minnesota, Kentucky, Tennessee and Florida to pick up Cub Cadets that I have bought on the net. If the one you are looking at runs and drives, that 4 hr. drive home will be the longest 4 hours of your life, you will be chomping at the bit wanting to get home so you can "try out" your new toy!

Just for reference, if you were to buy this 122, completely tear it down and restore it from the ground up... You may be able to spend as much as $2000.00 (cost of tractor included). You would then have a machine that will not only run circles around ALL of your friends and neighbors machines, it will also last another 40 plus years, the added bonus is that you will have an antique tractor that do the work that the newer garden tractors can't even begin to do. PLUS, Cub Cadets are just plain COOL AS HECK.

One of my 122’s is equipped with a front end loader, it regularly picks up and moves 55 gallon drums of motor oil and antifreeze with no problem, talk about a little powerhouse…

The biggest problem you will encounter is that you won't be able to stop at one... First thing you know you will find yourself "needing" another and another...
 

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The biggest problem you will encounter is that you won't be able to stop at one... First thing you know you will find yourself "needing" another and another...

Been there.

Am there I should say.

The worst one I have, a 125 I bought non running for the hard to find narrow frame hydraulic pump & rear belt driven PTO's for $350. Sold them for about double my buy in, then stuck in an old engine from another cub I was restoring with a fresh engine but that turned out to be a good engine too.

It was just to see how the motor ran, but I had a haban sickle mower and my restoration was underway on my 124 (still is)

So I set it up with the sicklebar and did some fence row mowing, then winter came and I used it for blading and found a cab just for the heck of it, and haven't stopped using the parts 125 and the spare engine after 2 years now. Then there was this engineless 122 at an auction that looked fairly decent but had no engine or right spindle and a set of flat front tires, and the bidders didn't seem to want it, so I brought it home for $15 and found a spindle somewhere, and a stuck cub 12hp for $13 at another auction that turned out to be fine, just sat a long time (wd-40 broke it loose by hand turning the PTO, nothing damaged at all.)

No, that doesn't mean yours isn't worth $450, it just means if you are willing to work on them, you will find a lot more stuff out there over time. Lots of equipment and goodies.

So you will get it, love it, then spy some cub sitting in a yard for a few years and bring home another. Then you will fix it up nice..too nice to use with that other one sitting there...

Then it begins. You find another selling too cheap to pass up..you still have a bit of room in the back of the garage, and maybe the wife won't notice...
 

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Just reading these threads makes me want to go out and buy a 122 or 125.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They went to a wider frame later to fit the bigger 16hp engines. drivetrains were the same.
You cannot till with a 3 speed unless it has the optional "creeper gear". Otherwise it can do about anything and never break.
What do you include in the term "till"? does that mean operating a rototiller, or things like a plow or disk too? Is that creeper gear an extra granny gear in the transmission or a transfer case auxillary? How would I tell if it had one?

Are the narrow frame attachments harder to come by than the wide frame ones? Can the wide frame attachments be modified relatively easily to fit the narrow frames?

I can tell this would be like any new project. You always learn the things you should have known to look for by having to fix them. My original "project" was a '47 jeep, back in about 1968. That is where I obtained most of my shade tree mechanic training. :thThumbsU I have since learned how to keep things going for a long time.

I really love my zero turn tractor, but it gives me pause when I read in the owners manual that the expected service life will be 7 years!:duh:
 

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Yes, rototillers need to move very slowly.

Economy tractors actually add a second 3 speed transmission to lower the ratio even more. (yes, you can put them both in reverse and come up with yet another forward speed)

It is an additional gearbox added to the rear of the transmission on a cub. It will have a creeper gear lever I believe, never having owned one.

Hydros don't need it since they have infinite speeds. You also have to run a belt driven rear PTO to use a roto tiller on a 122. Plus find a narrow frame rototiller!
They will pull a plow disk or harrow fine without a creeper gear.
 

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Zt,
Rototillers need a creeper or hydro. The engine has to run at full speed and slow moving tractor. The creeper bolts on the front of the diff/trans. A good creeper with a correct drive shaft will cost about 250.00 to 300.00 just for the creeper. A hydro is best because of the almost unlimited speeds. Also all tillers will work on the nf/wf with the correct mule drive. The rear mounting plate and gear box are the same for cadets. Now cat o tillers are a different breed.
 
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