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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I've been spending some time with my newly acquired 4016PS today & haven't made much progress yet.


To begin, here's what I'm working on:

Tractor is an: Ingersol 4016PS-1
P.I.N. : * 14155017 *
Purchased new 8/31/1992

Engine: Original - Onan P216G-1
Current Replacement - Onan Performer 18
Model: OL18 11251H
Serial: G00X212556

I've tried to research online (here & the Ingersol & Onan sites) to find out what I could about the tractor & the replacement 18 hp Onan Performer engine. I'm a little confused about exactly what engine it is. Nowhere that I looked showed an OL18. There was a P218G listed (which I think is mine), but I never saw any reference to an OL18. Anyone know about this?


Here's what I've done so far:
First, I removed the hood & the PTO. (which was already trashed) I will need a new PTO. I also pulled the spark plugs. Using a strap wrench on the crankshaft, I tried to turn it over. I couldn't get it to even budge. Then I removed the bolts holding the front bearing plate, but couldn't get the plate off. I decided that I needed to get at the other end of the crankshaft, so I started to disconnect things (wiring, throttle & choke cables, & fuel line) to remove the engine. I also removed the air filter housing from the top of the engine. I ran out of time when I was at the point where the only thing left is to disconnect the coupling to the pump & unbolt the engine from the frame.
It looks like it's going to be tough to get at the set screws in the coupling (p/n 33553) or the bolts into the flywheel.

Any suggestions of what I should or shouldn't be doing?

I've got to get to bed so that I can get up by 23:00 & head for West Virginia, so it'll be a couple days before I get to check in again & I probably won't get back to work on this project until the weekend.

Thanks in advance for any help & advice.
 

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DO YOU KNOW ITS LAUNCHED? if not why pull it? try turning both ways? if its just stuck fill the cylinders with pb blaster and go on your trip.
 

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DO YOU KNOW ITS LAUNCHED? if not why pull it? try turning both ways? if its just stuck fill the cylinders with pb blaster and go on your trip.
That about sums it up. If the rings are stuck a little, they won't be when you get home after a PB Blaster soak. Be very gentle rocking the crank...
 

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I have the performer 18 in my tractor as well. My data plate is as follows:

Model: P218G 1/11251H
Serial Num: E973689746

Cummins can spec the parts based on the 1/11251H number. I just called the local service center and they were able to get me a manual and parts breakdown. Also they stock a lot of the common parts. As to being locked up sorry I can't help. Mine sat for 7 years and rolls over just fine.

Base on serial numbers I say yours was built later than mine. My has the parts ink stamped with 1999 on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had to check in before I leave the house.

The motor isn't stuck from sitting. The previous owner said that he was running it & it back-fired bad & quit running. Then it wouldn't turn over any more. I'm expecting to find something broken or jammed. I thought about just pulling the tins off while the engine is on the tractor & pulling the heads to see if I could find the problem, but if a piston has made contact with a valve, I'll end up having to remove the engine to pull the pistons, rods & crank anyway......right?
I'm just hoping that there isn't too much damage (cylinder walls or worse) to be repairable. :i_praying
 

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me? i'd pull the heads. dropped a seat or valve? cool. as long as piston isnt toast, fix the head and run her!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I got home tonight & pulled the tins & both heads. Everything there looks fine, except it does seem a little odd, that both pistons are at TDC position with both valves for one cylinder open. I pulled the engine off the tractor so that I can get into the rest of it to find the problem. Tomorrow I'll Pull the flywheel, etc. I'm worried what I might find. I hope it's not too bad. :praying:
 

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Sounds like a broken rod to me. You should have pushed on the tops of those pistons. I bet that one of them got parked there after the rod broke.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's what I'm expecting.......keeping my fingers crossed that it didn't chew up the block/cylinder walls when it let loose. I'm going to go find out as soon as I finish my morning coffee.
I'm hoping that my local parts house has whatever I need, so that I can get it back together this weekend.
 

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Slow down. These are expensive engines originally and they use expensive parts. This is NOT a process you want to rush or you will pay dearly for your haste in the not too distant future. If the rod broke, then everything must be carefully checked. When an engine that is rotating at full speed comes to an instant stop, $h!t can happen that you might not even thing of. Camshafts can twist for one thing and I don't need to tell you what sort of havoc that can cause when you go to start the engine after the rebuild.

That block needs to be checked out thoroughly for damage and then the bores need to be checked for ridge, taper and wear. All machining needs to take place first before ordering new pistons, rings and rods. If you rebuild it properly, you will have an engine good for another thirty-years of use providing it's serviced on schedule. Make a mistake with the rebuild and it might last less than thirty-days.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I found the problem!
It's not a broken rod or cam problem. The engine had just coincidentally come to a stop in the position where both pistons are at TDC. I got the "oil base" off & everything inside looks good. The rods still move on the crank like they should. Now, I started to think that maybe something had gone wrong with the timing gears. I started to work on removing the flywheel & noticed the slightest bit of movement of the crank. It took a while to be able to spot it, but everything was moving with the crank, even the bearing end plate that I had loosened the bolts on. I removed the bearing end plate bolts & the engine turns over. The bearing in the end plate has siezed to the crank! :eek: I'll bet that whoever installed that plate when replacing the engine didn't line up the oil hole & the bearing never got any oil. Either that, or the bearing spun in the plate. Now I've got to figure out how to get that free'd up so I can get it apart.

My wife is down after parts for me. They have everything in stock except for the oil seal & that wasn't leaking anyway. Now I have to go to work to get that bearing plate off. If the crank isn't ruined & I don't ruin the seal getting it apart, I may get it back together today. If I can't get it done right that quick, though, I'll have to just be patient & get it done when it gets done.

CC2,
The bearing siezing shouldn't have caused the kind of damage you mentioned when a rod breaks should it? I've rebuilt V-8 engines before that had siezed crank bearings & didn't run into those problems. I had to replace the crank, but not the rods. I'm hoping that it wouldn't be any different for these small engines.
 

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I'd be concerned about the block where the bearing resides. IF the bearing spun in the block recess and caused the bearing bore to increase in size, then you will have to use something (perhaps from LockTite) to make sure the outer bearing race is tight in that hole. I've not had that Onan engine apart so I am just guessing about how that main bearing is secured in the block.

I agree with you that a seized bearing won't bring an engine to the same sort of instant stop that a broken rod will so the likelyhood of a twisted cam is negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The good thing about this is that the bearing is in the end plate, not the block. At worst case, I'll have to replace the end plate & maybe the crank. Of course, if the crank gets replaced there will be new bearings installed with that too.

Got any suggestion for freeing the siezed bearing from the crank?
 

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Since I don't have the problem in front of me, I'd just be guessing. Sorry.

The last thing I'd want to do is to give advice on something I have no direct experience with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got it......PB Blaster works wonders!

I put bearing end plate bolts back in & secured the engine back on the frame of the tractor with the two front bolts. I sprayed a little PB on the crank & waited a little while. Then, I slid the trashed PTO back on the crank with the key in place & tried a strap wrench on it. The crank turned a little. I sprayed a little more PB & tried turning it the other way. I continued doing that until I was able to turn the crank all the way around by grabbing the fins of the flywheel with my hand. Next, I had my wife turn the engine by hand while I worked the bearing end plate off.

The crank looks perfect! There is no sign of any scoring or adhered bearing parts. The bearing isn't as good though, but that's OK because I now have a new one. I got looking for the reason that the bearing siezed & quickly found it. Whoever put the bearing end plate on had used some kind of gasket sealer instead of buying a new gasket. To make things worse, they filled the hole that supplies oil to the bearing in the bearing end plate with the gasket sealer!

Some people just shouldn't own wrenches!
 

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Next, I had my wife turn the engine by hand while I worked the bearing end plate off.

I guess you'll have to take back those comments you made the other day about wondering why in **** you ever got married?

:biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I guess you'll have to take back those comments you made the other day about wondering why in **** you ever got married?

:biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
What.......me? :eek: Oh no, I NEVER said anything like that! :Stop:
Well, maybe just a few times in the last 26+ years. :D
 
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