Howdy all!
This is meant as a pictorial supplement to the user’s manual to help out anybody who may have to go through this later to help identify parts. Have 7/16” 9/16” and ½” sockets & open ended wrenches ready. If you have an air ratchet, you’re in luck. I did this manually because my cordless drill and impact wrench are too big to get in most places. Wasn’t a big deal, as the majority of the time was spent re-reading horrible install procedure and double checking that I had the right nuts/bolts/washers, and aligning carriage bolts in tight places so the wrenching bit is a small part. The toughest part is kneeling over and lying on the ground. This took me all day... Started at 10 am and finished at 5pm. Took a few breaks to eat.
Here goes…
Hood, Bumper and Deck come off.
Hood simply lifts off when raised just before the top. (Don’t forget to unplug headlights)
Deck comes off by removing the 6 cotter pins, front suspension arm, and rear suspension arm.
Bumper has 2 straps attaching it to the frame, with 2 bolts each side (situated diagonally, you can see one below the hood next to the stool caster)
(Note the Brinly dethatcher in background that I assembled and used yesterday)
(Looks a bit like the Munster’s dragster w/o the hood and bumper)
2 mounting arms go on (the thick washers go in between arm/frame to even out mounting, one area skips washer as there is an engine mount plate)
(I forgot to re-attach heat shield & shoulder bolt on mounting arms)
(Other Side)
It’s a good idea to sort out all the nuts & bolts, because there are soooo many that look alike.
(Note, the 3/8” flange nuts all had oval holes.. not sure if this is a manufacturing defect or if this was intentional, but it added a fair amount of tension, making them pretty much like nylock fasteners)
Right side bracket is then mounted
Since the nuts are oval/hard to turn, you’ll have to use a pair of vice-grips and a socket wrench to tighten the shoulder bolts to get enough torque.
Stuff for Left side
This bracket was there and comes off
Replaced
Next, the pulley assembly and required parts
See manual for belt installs...I coudn't get under there with my camera... too big and lens focal distance too far out.
Here’s a good time to think about cotter pins… There are 3 sizes..
Big, Little and one with only one bend (far left). The kind with only one bend is used here.
Mounting arms, chains and cotter pin installed
Get the slide and small cotter pins ready. The assembly slides onto the shoulder bolts in the frame and the slide pins go in.
Install the belt… Use this one for the Dixon GT (48138)
Then pull the tension chain and insert the big cotter pin
Use these bolts for attaching the lift arm
Next tube for chute control and chute control are installed
Spiral loosely installed to plastic tab with 2 carriage bolts.
Hardware for chute install
Chute installed and cables zip-tied to tube.
Stop bolts removed for GTs
Shoulder bolt and heat / browning shield I forgot earler.
Blower then aligned to shoulder bolts & lowered.
(See back of blower, the 2 cut outs go over the shoulder bolts, and the large pin goes through the hole in the top of mounting arm)
Auger belt pulled over back pulley.
Tension set for auger belt & cotter pin inserted into chain. Large pin inserted.
Rear Reflectors installed... I skipped installing the weight bracket as the brinly hitch kit didn't allow for the braces to attch. Will find another way. Also, the reflectors don't have a flat spot, as there is a curve to the rear fender deck
Finished Product
(bags of soil on seat to trigger safety switch so I that could watch the augers spin…)
And another shot exposed so that you can see the auger better.
That's all folks!
Miller time! :trink40:
This is meant as a pictorial supplement to the user’s manual to help out anybody who may have to go through this later to help identify parts. Have 7/16” 9/16” and ½” sockets & open ended wrenches ready. If you have an air ratchet, you’re in luck. I did this manually because my cordless drill and impact wrench are too big to get in most places. Wasn’t a big deal, as the majority of the time was spent re-reading horrible install procedure and double checking that I had the right nuts/bolts/washers, and aligning carriage bolts in tight places so the wrenching bit is a small part. The toughest part is kneeling over and lying on the ground. This took me all day... Started at 10 am and finished at 5pm. Took a few breaks to eat.
Here goes…
Hood, Bumper and Deck come off.
Hood simply lifts off when raised just before the top. (Don’t forget to unplug headlights)
Deck comes off by removing the 6 cotter pins, front suspension arm, and rear suspension arm.
Bumper has 2 straps attaching it to the frame, with 2 bolts each side (situated diagonally, you can see one below the hood next to the stool caster)

(Note the Brinly dethatcher in background that I assembled and used yesterday)
(Looks a bit like the Munster’s dragster w/o the hood and bumper)
2 mounting arms go on (the thick washers go in between arm/frame to even out mounting, one area skips washer as there is an engine mount plate)

(I forgot to re-attach heat shield & shoulder bolt on mounting arms)

(Other Side)
It’s a good idea to sort out all the nuts & bolts, because there are soooo many that look alike.

(Note, the 3/8” flange nuts all had oval holes.. not sure if this is a manufacturing defect or if this was intentional, but it added a fair amount of tension, making them pretty much like nylock fasteners)
Right side bracket is then mounted
Since the nuts are oval/hard to turn, you’ll have to use a pair of vice-grips and a socket wrench to tighten the shoulder bolts to get enough torque.
Stuff for Left side
This bracket was there and comes off
Replaced
Next, the pulley assembly and required parts
See manual for belt installs...I coudn't get under there with my camera... too big and lens focal distance too far out.
Here’s a good time to think about cotter pins… There are 3 sizes..
Big, Little and one with only one bend (far left). The kind with only one bend is used here.
Mounting arms, chains and cotter pin installed
Get the slide and small cotter pins ready. The assembly slides onto the shoulder bolts in the frame and the slide pins go in.
Install the belt… Use this one for the Dixon GT (48138)
Then pull the tension chain and insert the big cotter pin
Use these bolts for attaching the lift arm
Next tube for chute control and chute control are installed
Spiral loosely installed to plastic tab with 2 carriage bolts.
Hardware for chute install
Chute installed and cables zip-tied to tube.
Stop bolts removed for GTs
Shoulder bolt and heat / browning shield I forgot earler.
Blower then aligned to shoulder bolts & lowered.

(See back of blower, the 2 cut outs go over the shoulder bolts, and the large pin goes through the hole in the top of mounting arm)
Auger belt pulled over back pulley.
Tension set for auger belt & cotter pin inserted into chain. Large pin inserted.
Rear Reflectors installed... I skipped installing the weight bracket as the brinly hitch kit didn't allow for the braces to attch. Will find another way. Also, the reflectors don't have a flat spot, as there is a curve to the rear fender deck
Finished Product
(bags of soil on seat to trigger safety switch so I that could watch the augers spin…)
And another shot exposed so that you can see the auger better.

That's all folks!
Miller time! :trink40: