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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy all!


This is meant as a pictorial supplement to the user’s manual to help out anybody who may have to go through this later to help identify parts. Have 7/16” 9/16” and ½” sockets & open ended wrenches ready. If you have an air ratchet, you’re in luck. I did this manually because my cordless drill and impact wrench are too big to get in most places. Wasn’t a big deal, as the majority of the time was spent re-reading horrible install procedure and double checking that I had the right nuts/bolts/washers, and aligning carriage bolts in tight places so the wrenching bit is a small part. The toughest part is kneeling over and lying on the ground. This took me all day... Started at 10 am and finished at 5pm. Took a few breaks to eat.

Here goes…

Hood, Bumper and Deck come off.

Hood simply lifts off when raised just before the top. (Don’t forget to unplug headlights)

Deck comes off by removing the 6 cotter pins, front suspension arm, and rear suspension arm.

Bumper has 2 straps attaching it to the frame, with 2 bolts each side (situated diagonally, you can see one below the hood next to the stool caster)



(Note the Brinly dethatcher in background that I assembled and used yesterday)



(Looks a bit like the Munster’s dragster w/o the hood and bumper)

2 mounting arms go on (the thick washers go in between arm/frame to even out mounting, one area skips washer as there is an engine mount plate)



(I forgot to re-attach heat shield & shoulder bolt on mounting arms)



(Other Side)

It’s a good idea to sort out all the nuts & bolts, because there are soooo many that look alike.



(Note, the 3/8” flange nuts all had oval holes.. not sure if this is a manufacturing defect or if this was intentional, but it added a fair amount of tension, making them pretty much like nylock fasteners)
Right side bracket is then mounted



Since the nuts are oval/hard to turn, you’ll have to use a pair of vice-grips and a socket wrench to tighten the shoulder bolts to get enough torque.



Stuff for Left side



This bracket was there and comes off



Replaced



Next, the pulley assembly and required parts




See manual for belt installs...I coudn't get under there with my camera... too big and lens focal distance too far out.

Here’s a good time to think about cotter pins… There are 3 sizes..
Big, Little and one with only one bend (far left). The kind with only one bend is used here.



Mounting arms, chains and cotter pin installed



Get the slide and small cotter pins ready. The assembly slides onto the shoulder bolts in the frame and the slide pins go in.
Install the belt… Use this one for the Dixon GT (48138)



Then pull the tension chain and insert the big cotter pin



Use these bolts for attaching the lift arm




Next tube for chute control and chute control are installed





Spiral loosely installed to plastic tab with 2 carriage bolts.




Hardware for chute install





Chute installed and cables zip-tied to tube.



Stop bolts removed for GTs





Shoulder bolt and heat / browning shield I forgot earler.



Blower then aligned to shoulder bolts & lowered.



(See back of blower, the 2 cut outs go over the shoulder bolts, and the large pin goes through the hole in the top of mounting arm)

Auger belt pulled over back pulley.

Tension set for auger belt & cotter pin inserted into chain. Large pin inserted.



Rear Reflectors installed... I skipped installing the weight bracket as the brinly hitch kit didn't allow for the braces to attch. Will find another way. Also, the reflectors don't have a flat spot, as there is a curve to the rear fender deck



Finished Product



(bags of soil on seat to trigger safety switch so I that could watch the augers spin…)

And another shot exposed so that you can see the auger better.



That's all folks!

Miller time! :trink40:
 

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Well just hope that mother nature cooperates and sends some snow your way! Very good install guide by the way!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Haha, thanks! I keep hearing about this mild upcoming winter! I guess I can't lose on this one? (unless the blower breaks!)

I can tell you one thing though... It's going to be a few days before I take it off and put the deck on, after that wrestling match getting it on!

Now to find some chains...
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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My dad has one of those blowers on his Husqvarna... Just a note- engage the pto at low rpm them rev it up- my dad was going through a belt a storm because of the twists in the belt. They work great though!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the advice James! I did notice that the auger belt shakes like demi moore at a rap concert. The blower was in the 'up' or transport positon when I let tried it out. I'll have to read through the instructions again tonight to make sure nothing's off.
 

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I don't suppose you can just leave the bumper brackets on? If I need to reinstall the bumper brackets every spring on my 2014 G5500 I'm going bumper less!
 

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I realize this post started in 2010 but since someone brought it back to life I have to ask: how many belts do you guys go through? One per storm or is anyone lucky enough to get more use? I had the older, heavier version on my old tractor and think I used 2 belts in 13 years! This one I eat a belt at least once per use. Granted, my driveway is 600ft but its been the same even with the older model.

Recently I was wondering if it has to do with GT's and removing that stop bolt. The GT's sit higher therefore the belt is way more out of line with the pulley when in the down position. I was thinking of lowering that pulley under the seat so that the belt is more in line and parallel with the front a bit better. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I'm the OP and I'm still on the original belts for both the PTO to pulley and pulley to auger. (knock on wood!)

I did find that it is very easy to incorrectly route the belts as I did at the start of last season and still have the blower work, but keep throwing the belt. Once corrected, I am still going on the belts supplied with the blower unit.

I think I will be having a couple of spare 'blue' Kevlar belts ordered before the start of the snow season, just in case this is it for them.

However, the F*(&(*^ plastic clevis for the electric deck lift motor broke for the 3rd time though yesterday. $4 part, but a pain in the *** and not usually available locally. Fairly easy to replace, but requires taking off the rear wheel, which if your running wheel weights is a bit of a pain.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I don't suppose you can just leave the bumper brackets on? If I need to reinstall the bumper brackets every spring on my 2014 G5500 I'm going bumper less!
I've gone bumper less in the summers so far, as I'm not bumping cattle :thThumbsU with this thing or whatever the heck they're for.
 
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