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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sleeve Hitch Model 486.24536 on a Murray Model 46379

I apologize in advance for the poor photos, my good camera quit working for some reason. :banghead3

1. flatten out the two top brackets that come with hitch
2. Remove the 3 bolts just behind the rear wheel that hold the frame together
3. Drill new holes in brackets to match the ones in the frame and drill the ones in the frame of mower, all to 3/8 in.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
4. Attach bracket to frame using washers to space it out far enough for the hooks on top of the hitch to go between bracket and frame. I used 3 on the top bolt and 4 on the bottom. Do not put spacers on center bolt because the hooks will hit them.

repeat bracket attachment on the opposite side.

5. Check for clearance issues. You will want the pins that stick out on the back side of the bracket touching the rear of the tractor, but spaced our far enough to allow the hooks to slide easily onto them.

6. It should look like this with both sides completed and hitch setting on the pins..

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
7. Put bolt in the bottom of hitch and you are finished.

I did not go into how to put the hitch together, but just follow the instructions that come with it.

Also items I bought that did not come with the hitch are two 3/8 bolts nuts and lock washers and 14 3/8 flat washers for spacing (3 on top bolt and 4 on the bottom bolt on each side). I would recommend solid spacers if you can find them but at this time I can't find what I want locally so this will have to do for now. If you can get solid spacers here are the measurements I used. Top bolt 3/16 thick, bottom bolt 1/4 thick and when I get them made, center bolt 9/16 OD 3/8 ID X 1/4 thick. the difference in the thickness of the top bolt to all the others is because there is and extra plate the top bolt goes through that will take up the extra 1/16 in (look at step 4 picture).
 

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nice setup:thThumbsU i want to find a lift and plow for my GT
 

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Looking good Big-O. I'm stoked watching this Murray get set up to actually maintain a garden. You are doing exactly what I want to do. I blew my last chance at a 1979 Murray GT. I won't make any mistakes next time. Have you given any thoughts to rear wheel weights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all. Justin Helterbrand keep an eye on craigslist and eBay I decided to do this about three months ago and have gotten everything from craigslist which I check daily. To date I have spent about $275.00 that is for Tractor, hitch, plow, air filter, plugs, and stuff to do the light covers with. The only thing left is AG's weights If needed disk harrow and a full fluid change out as soon as the sea foam I have in everything has time to do its thing.
BushBoneYard I am going to try the fluid filled tires alone first and then decide from there. I made two passes on the back side of my garden this evening and was very impressed at how well it did with unweighted turf tires. Of Course my 225lb but setting over the wheels didn't hurt LOL. With soil conditions like they are here I figured to have way more problems than I did in extra dry ground that hasn't seen a plow in 3 yrs.
 

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BushBoneYard I am going to try the fluid filled tires alone first and then decide from there.
:fing20: Sorry about that. Somehow I missed post #5. Fluid filled AG's should make a huge difference. And hey, besides that, let's be honest - they just plain ol' look cool...................

:thThumbsU
 

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Big-O, hey I believe you can move to the head of the class. Awesome job on the fabbing of the hitch to the Murray back end. That should be a sticky if you ask me! That is invaluable info for setting up the Craftsman hitch to other brands.

GREAT JOB!:thThumbsU
 

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Big-O, hey I believe you can move to the head of the class. Awesome job on the fabbing of the hitch to the Murray back end. That should be a sticky if you ask me! That is invaluable info for setting up the Craftsman hitch to other brands.

GREAT JOB!:thThumbsU
Agreed about the sticky hankll. The subject comes up enough.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks everyone. As to the sticky part. I did this for all on the forum and if the mediators think it is worthy of that it is fine with me. I just wish my good camera was working so I could have gotten some better closeup pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sears has the electric lift on sale for $399.99 but I don't want to put that much $$ out if I don't have to. Has anyone got a source for the actuator and switch at a decent price? I can fab the mounts.
 

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Sears has the electric lift on sale for $399.99 but I don't want to put that much $$ out if I don't have to. Has anyone got a source for the actuator and switch at a decent price? I can fab the mounts.
That might be a good question for SleazyRider. I know he is doing a build right now that involves actuators.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Anyone got a Harbor Freight winch that can tell me which side the spool in button is on? Dummy me took it apart and didn't mark which cap goes on which side. I am making a box to mount the switch in and attach it to the fender.
 

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Tsk, tsk, tsk. If, on the HF controller, the wires came out on the long side of the box, then you have it right. If not, then you'll have to reverse them. I would have just pressed the button to see which is which. Nice job on the box. I was going to do that and might still if I ever get my milling machine back up & running.



Bob
 

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My HF winch control has spool in on the right side. Nice looking box! :thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If I am testing it wright with the meter, - to - and +to+ = reel in, then mine reels in on the right also. I hope so, that thing will be a pain to take back apart. I will find out tomorrow when I hook the power to it. All the wiring and switch will be correct just the buttons will be backwards. I most likely will just take some thinner and take the factory markings off and put up and down on them if it is wrong since I put blue loctite on all the nuts. I have to fab a mounting plate and some kind of chain and turnbuckle system so I can set the depth for the turn-plow before I put the winch on anyway. Thanks for the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tsk, tsk, tsk. If, on the HF controller, the wires came out on the long side of the box, then you have it right. If not, then you'll have to reverse them. I would have just pressed the button to see which is which. Nice job on the box. I was going to do that and might still if I ever get my milling machine back up & running.



Bob
You can always cheat like I did. All that is,is a smooth sided light switch box like you wood put on the inside of a metal building and a solid cover with two holes drilled for the buttons. I just put some nylon sleeves on the inside to space the switch the wright distance below the buttons. :fing32:
 
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