[alyourpal]

I have replaced the stator which has the diode built into the wire. I have replaced the starter solenoid. I have replaced the battery. I have replaced the key switch. I have replaced the charge gauge. I have replaced the starter. Problem still persists where the charge gauge does not move from 0 ever. Battery almost dies every time I shut off my motor and try to restart. I assume this mower has no voltage regulator. I have checked wiring for continuity at most locations I could think of. Strange that the 2 red wires from the charge gauge go into wire harness but never come out? I can run the mower but it would be nice to see the gauge and charging system work.

 

[38racing]

a simple check is to measure voltage at battery before starting. should be 12.4 or a bit above. after starting it the voltage shown should be higher. Do ammeter gauge wires connect to the meter? Some measure just by have wire loop around it. Starter and starter solenoid will not affect whether it charges or not. What brand and model is the engine? You can google the model to get a wiring schematic. Looks like power from stator for battery charging is through a diode to terminal a1 of key switch. wire from diode to a1 is red. (If briggs the diode would show has larger diameter on the stator side of the connector between engine and chassis. Other wire would be AC to lights.) Then through key switch to B terminal of key switch and then through ammeter and then through fuse to battery positive cable on the starter solenoid to the battery positive. If you changed key switch you have to be sure the terminal positions were exact to the original.

 

[Forest Gump]

You might try going to this link and download the free owners manual and look at the wiring diagram.

Did you check the fuse?
Do you have a voltmeter?

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/ma...raftsman-917273522-front-engine-lawn-tractors

 

[alyourpal]

The voltage was 12.43. It does not change when the motor is started. The lights do not work. The gauge wires go into the wire harness from the gauge. They then disappear immediately. I can see one inch from both sides of where they go into the harness because the harness is split by design and there are no red wires. I thought this was strange. The fuse is good and so are the wires going to and from it. I don't understand what you meant by "a wire loop around it". Around what? This is a Briggs and Stratton motor. I got this manual (407577-0283-E1) numbers for it. I did measure a voltage from the stator (red wire). I do not know the reading at this time but think it was may be around 24. Nothing from the other (black) wire. No diode on the black wire either. If I did change the switch (Not 100% sure at has been a while) I would have acquired it through Sears so I hope they got it right. I do know the wire plug fit. I will try to trace the wire as you have provided the path. I looking for the same voltage as is coming from the stator I assume. I will get a better reading from the stator.

 

[Forest Gump]

You need to check for a AC voltage of around 24V AC before the Diode (on the stator wire before the diode) You will have two wires coming out of the Stator a Orange (for the lights) and the other wire to the diode (color not shown on the diagram) Locate this diode wire and carefully strip back the insulation (or pierce the insulation with a pin) and look for around 24v AC to chassis ground at high rpm.
If no 24v AC the stator or flywheel is bad. (magnets gone) If you have 24vAC and no DC charge voltage on the red wire from the cathode of the diode, use your ohmmeter and check the diode. Be careful when removing the insulation from the wire on stator side of the diode because the diode or its solid wire can be easily broken because it's a small solid wire. (Best to use a small pin and just pierce the insulation to check the voltage) The little diode is usually hidden inside a piece of plastic tubing right at the plastic plug connector on the engine side of the wiring harness. You can check the diode while it's connected to the stator using your ohmmeter.. Should read High resistance to chassis one direction and then reverse the ohmmeter leads and get a lower reading. The resistance of the stator windings will be low less than 5 ohms.

You asked about a wire loop around the DC AMMETER. Usually the DC meter on the Craftsman lawn tractors does not have wire connection terminals, the wire (red) just loops around the back of the meter and the meter then deflects from inductive magnetism to indicate charge/discharge.

Let us know what you find?

 

[tomw0]

In case this is not known, many B&S products have a diode embedded in the plastic terminal connector coming from the engine. I think most if not all are inside a bit of 'heat shrink' to insulate the wires. If this diode fails, there will generally be no charging occurring. The system will produce alternating current in the mid-20's of voltage, before the diode, and direct current, though bumpy, on the output side.
tom

 

[alyourpal]

The voltage was 19.4 AC before the diode. I did not measure anything else as I think this might say what is wrong. The stator was new and so was the diode. Must be the flywheel? We did drop the flywheel on cement during the repair if that would effect it but it was not charging even before the drop. The whole thing (flywheel and magnets) are kind of rusty but I assume that must be typical. Does the space between the flywheel and pick up magnets matter terribly?

 

[Forest Gump]

The voltage was 19.4 AC before the diode. I did not measure anything else as I think this might say what is wrong. The stator was new and so was the diode. Must be the flywheel? We did drop the flywheel on cement during the repair if that would effect it but it was not charging even before the drop. The whole thing (flywheel and magnets) are kind of rusty but I assume that must be typical. Does the space between the flywheel and pick up magnets matter terribly?

Wondering why you ask this? This is not adjustable. Doubtful your flywheel is bad if it has all it's magnets still inside.

You should have at least 24vAC at 3600 rpms with the charging system disconnected. This means the wire at the charge side of the diode is disconnected or open circuit voltage. You may have to use a tach and see if your engine speed is at 3600 rpm's when checking for 24vAC MINIMUM VOLTAGE.
Most of them twin Briggs has a adjustment screw at the throttle/governor linkage area to set the max rpm's at 3600 and I've seen them age to where the engine would not get full rpm's. I did not look at yours but you can check your Briggs engine service manual to re-search such. You can get a Tach for less than $20 now days. You might even try gently speeding up the engine manually to see how the AC reacts but be careful and do not overspeed the engine and make sure the red diode output wire is disconnected (open circuit) when checking the AC voltage as indicated on the wiring diagram. Any rpm's less than 3600 and the AC voltage will be lower.

Another thing you need to confirm is that you can read DC battery voltage at the diode cathode with the key on and the engine not running. and again with the engine running This tells you that you have connection from the diode cathode all the way through everything to the battery and should get a charge or around 1 1/2 to 3amps at 3600 rpms if you get 24vAC.
I also would not trust the on dash ammeter right now, I would check the charge output amps with a low amp DC ammeter, like around 0-5 amps type.

If you have a low amps battery charger (0 to 10 amps or less) you can connect it's pos lead to the red wire at the diode area and ground the neg lead to chassis and when you turn on the mower's key switch compare your on dash ammeter to the Battery charger ammeter. You are using the stand alone battery charger as a test charge in place of your engine charging system. Just make sure you do not get the battery charger output leads reversed and for additional safety you could install a 5 or 10 amps fuse in the pos lead of the battery charger. Do not start the engine. This test will let you know that if you get 24VAC out of your stator and your diode is good you should get a battery charge indication on your on dash ammeter unless you have a bad connection at the diodes output at the plastic plug connector..:tango_face_wink:

You can connect you battery charger FIRST direct to the battery just to see the charge amps from the battery charger. (make sure the charger output is 10 amps or less when connected direct to the battery so as to keep from blowing the mowers in-line fuse which is probably 10 or 15 amps) when you go for the above test when connected to the diode output.

 

[alyourpal]

I did not disconnect when measuring the 19.4. on the stator side of the diode. I will next time. On the flywheel I thought I read the magnet scan get weak? I figured weak magnets cold produce less voltage?

 

[alyourpal]

Ok. It is a tad over 24v on the stator side. Also the battery voltage is present on the cathode side with the stator connector disconnected and the key on motor off.

 

[SaintlySins]

Please take this in the comedic tone it's meant to be.

Although I feel your pain and suffering in trying to remedy the problem, based on the Title, I was thinking you were giving away a Craftsman Riding Mower at "no charge"

LOLOL


Sincerely ... I hope you find a cure and it's up and running shortly. Good luck.

 

[alyourpal]

Kind of does look like I am giving it away at no charge. Actually the trans is going bad and new trans are not worth it so that may yet happen.

 

[Forest Gump]

You prev indicated you have replaced with new the stator with the diode, the key switch the ammeter, plus others.

Appears you should be getting a charge per your AC voltage readings but it's not showing on your new ammeter.

Take a 120v battery charger that has a ammeter on the charger and connect to your bat at the red wire at the diode and then turn on your key and see what you get per the ammeters. (do not start the engine, just use the 120v stand alone low amp battery charger to see if you get a indication of charging through your existing mower's wiring.

 

[Forest Gump]

Ok. It is a tad over 24v on the stator side. Also the battery voltage is present on the cathode side with the stator connector disconnected and the key on motor off.

??????:tango_face_surprise

Please explain this????

If you have bat voltage at the dash wiring harness side with the key OFF, this is telling you that the red wire going to the anode is somehow bypassing the key switch. Bat voltage going to the diode anode wire should be switched ON/OFF at the ign switch terminals A1 to B per the wiring diagram??????????????????????????

 

[Forest Gump]

If ya get this charging issue going ask us about your Peerless xmission issues, symptoms, how it acts ,etc?

 

[alyourpal]

No. I said key on, motor off (not running).

 

[alyourpal]

It won't go into free wheel. Also it is beginning to stutter when engaged. Like a high frequency skip. Have the one it replaced which was skipping really bad up hill mostly. The pumps on these are "not serviceable". Should this be a new thread?

 

[Forest Gump]

No. I said key on, motor off (not running).

Ok.:tango_face_wink:

Have you thought about trying the 120 volt bat charger test I suggested?

 

[Forest Gump]

It won't go into free wheel. Also it is beginning to stutter when engaged. Like a high frequency skip. Have the one it replaced which was skipping really bad up hill mostly. The pumps on these are "not serviceable". Should this be a new thread?

With those symptoms, yes new thread.

 

[alyourpal]

Any topic and thread suggestions?