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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i cant seem to locate a sears snow thrower for my lt1000...the model number im looking for is 24839...same story for the sears blade 24443...sears no longer carries these particular items - are there other manufacturers who make lt1000 compatible snow removal attachments? i probably need the model number - its 917-273392...[

i just found one on the sears website they are saying that the the MTD 190-627 snow thrower is compatible can this be true ?its about 1500 new maybe i can find a used one nearby

also, ive noticed that when you let the tractor sit for a while with gas in the tank, the cylinder will fill with gas and the engine won't turn over...think this is why the prior owner was giving it away...there is a fuel filter but no shut off valve - will replacing the fuel filter solve this or do i need to find a shut off valve> right now i just put enough gas in it to do what i need and then run it dry...but it would be nice to fix that problem...

this is a decent tractor - 18 hp briggs intek other than missing the mower deck and having the hood bashed in it runs good starts well and the transmission seems to be in good shape...im using it to move firewood right now but would like to see it perform some other tasks maybe...take advantage of that engine....
 

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I used the 24838 blower on my lt2000. There are a few models.. width being the main difference.. I scored my blower on craigslist for 250 with weights and chains.

As far as gas inthe cylinder.. you seem to have a leaky valve. Could be the seat.. or valve. If you are mechanically inclined you can open it up and have the seat reground, or see how much a new head is..

a fuel filter will not stop the fuel flowing.. it merely strains contaminants out..
 

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According to the 2010 fit up guide (in the "stickies" section, you want the 24837 blower????


The needle/seat assembly in the carb is leaking through.
A carb kit should fix. Chances are a good cleaning may do the same, if a piece of "crud" is stuck under the needle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
According to the 2010 fit up guide (in the "stickies" section, you want the 24837 blower????

The needle/seat assembly in the carb is leaking through.
A carb kit should fix. Chances are a good cleaning may do the same, if a piece of "crud" is stuck under the needle.
ok i see that - so the tractor model # im using would be 917.27339 - just drop the last digit...that works...

i'll try some carb cleaner and see if that does the trick...

thank you for your help!
 

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Carb cleaner won't get at it unless you remove the gas line fitting and spray it in the fitting area.
Carb needs a disassembly, or atleast a dropping of the float bowl. Bet you it's got some crud in there from sitting or pieces of rubber gas line. Simple to do, just abit messy. Not an 'in the kitchen' type of repair.
At the same time, might want to replace the complete fuel line rubber hose with hose that is compatible with the new gas we now have to live with. Add a new fuel filter, and put in a fuel shut off valve, too. And use the valve to shut off all gas flow, when you're done mowing.
And before starting the motor, change the motor oil. You may have leaked oil into the crankcase, contaminating the engine oil. If you have an oil filter, replace that too. Do the 'smell' test to the oil, or just change it and be sure.
Remove the spark plug to drain the cyclinder of fuel. I usually put a couple drops of oil in the the top of the cyclinder after I drain out the gas, than hand rotate, to spread the oil out evenly. The gas has removed most of the oil used to lubricate the piston/cylinder wall.
There has been alot of discussion about this problem on here, lately. I have to fix one just like this, this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Carb cleaner won't get at it unless you remove the gas line fitting and spray it in the fitting area.
Carb needs a disassembly, or atleast a dropping of the float bowl. Bet you it's got some crud in there from sitting or pieces of rubber gas line. Simple to do, just abit messy. Not an 'in the kitchen' type of repair.
At the same time, might want to replace the complete fuel line rubber hose with hose that is compatible with the new gas we now have to live with. Add a new fuel filter, and put in a fuel shut off valve, too. And use the valve to shut off all gas flow, when you're done mowing.
And before starting the motor, change the motor oil. You may have leaked oil into the crankcase, contaminating the engine oil. If you have an oil filter, replace that too. Do the 'smell' test to the oil, or just change it and be sure.
Remove the spark plug to drain the cyclinder of fuel. I usually put a couple drops of oil in the the top of the cyclinder after I drain out the gas, than hand rotate, to spread the oil out evenly. The gas has removed most of the oil used to lubricate the piston/cylinder wall.
There has been alot of discussion about this problem on here, lately. I have to fix one just like this, this weekend.
all good ideas...shoulda done the oil change right away...i guess i was just happy i could get the thing to turn over - this tractor was a freebie and when i first got it home i thought it was seized and i would have to possibly replace the engine...oil change filters fuel line and shut off valve would be minor compared to that...

and i'll check the float bowl - you are probably right about that - it may have been sitting for a while with old gas, and the fuel line is a little dried out and flaky...

thank you for your help!
 
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