No one has any advise??? Still fighting these issues.
Craftsman GT6000
Here is the serial # 917.250032
I have a few questions:
First it starts OK and seems to run good, however when you put it into gear in starts to sputter and miss. Here are a couple things I did already 1) Changed plugs, air filter, fuel filter and replaced all gas. 2) I found out there was some black, I assume oil or non burned gas in the left cylinder if your sitting on the tractor, well the plugs should have been around .025 and were closer to .04. After regapping the new plugs it did fire off better but still stumbles under a load.
Now my second question, this tractor has electric lift and PTO. It doesnt have a deck attached but when I flip the switch to the ON position it kills the motor unless I switch it off. This has me baffled as nothing it hooked up PTO or mower deck wise.
Can anyone offer some pointers on what to check. This model is on the rarer sides with craftsman GT6000's as it has the electric lift and PTO.
Thank you very much!
PS... Do i need to let it runs more to clean out that cylinder? Or am I facing a possible bad rings situation also?
I have a few questions:
First it starts OK and seems to run good, however when you put it into gear in starts to sputter and miss. Here are a couple things I did already 1) Changed plugs, air filter, fuel filter and replaced all gas. 2) I found out there was some black, I assume oil or non burned gas in the left cylinder if your sitting on the tractor, well the plugs should have been around .025 and were closer to .04. After regapping the new plugs it did fire off better but still stumbles under a load.
Now my second question, this tractor has electric lift and PTO. It doesnt have a deck attached but when I flip the switch to the ON position it kills the motor unless I switch it off. This has me baffled as nothing it hooked up PTO or mower deck wise.
Can anyone offer some pointers on what to check. This model is on the rarer sides with craftsman GT6000's as it has the electric lift and PTO.
Thank you very much!
PS... Do i need to let it runs more to clean out that cylinder? Or am I facing a possible bad rings situation also?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
the switch killing it sounds like the safety switches still thinks the deck is hooked up for some reason and one of the safteies isn't made. A short, I would think would blow a fuse.
The stumbling still sounds like a carb problem or carb adjustment.
The stumbling still sounds like a carb problem or carb adjustment.
Do you have the Owners Manual?
If not, download it here-
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0707017.pdf
Schematic is page 25/52
That said, things look a bit "fishy".
The circuitry shows power to the ignition module only when the seat is unoccupied.
IF this was a battery/points ignition, that means it would only run when the PTO was engaged. Obviously, that's not the case. (or even reasonable)
The OPR (Operator Presence Relay) is powered through pins 85 & 86.
When current is flowing, pin 30 is connected to 87.
When NOT flowing, pin 30 is connected to 87A.
I ASSUME this ignition module requires 12V to provide spark?
My gut feeling is the seat switch isn't working properly or mis-adjusted.
See if the tractor will run with the OPR removed.
That would give me an idea of how to proceed.
If not, download it here-
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0707017.pdf
Schematic is page 25/52
That said, things look a bit "fishy".
The circuitry shows power to the ignition module only when the seat is unoccupied.
IF this was a battery/points ignition, that means it would only run when the PTO was engaged. Obviously, that's not the case. (or even reasonable)
The OPR (Operator Presence Relay) is powered through pins 85 & 86.
When current is flowing, pin 30 is connected to 87.
When NOT flowing, pin 30 is connected to 87A.
I ASSUME this ignition module requires 12V to provide spark?
My gut feeling is the seat switch isn't working properly or mis-adjusted.
See if the tractor will run with the OPR removed.
That would give me an idea of how to proceed.
As far as the switch thing. I would agree that you have a safety switch that's not happy. Or the electric PTO may be shorting.
As far as the lack of power.
When was the last time you did a good carb cleaning. Has the machine been sitting any decent length of time say over 6 months?
As far as the lack of power.
When was the last time you did a good carb cleaning. Has the machine been sitting any decent length of time say over 6 months?
Well, I was being an idiot with the PTO switch.. DUh.. When I actaully sit on the tractor and flip the switch it doesnt stall...
I have cleaned it several times checked all of the gaskets, they dont look to have any cracks and I dont see any moisture escaping anywhere on them. Floats look good as does the needle. I did crank the power screw today in quite a bit and it stopped the surging somewhat but now the throttle runs maybe 75% even with the throttle all the way down. When I throttle it up to way it says to be when you are running attachments it starts surging again.
I have cleaned it several times checked all of the gaskets, they dont look to have any cracks and I dont see any moisture escaping anywhere on them. Floats look good as does the needle. I did crank the power screw today in quite a bit and it stopped the surging somewhat but now the throttle runs maybe 75% even with the throttle all the way down. When I throttle it up to way it says to be when you are running attachments it starts surging again.
I'd run a compression test.
Compare the 2 cylinders with each other. (don't worry too much about absolute numbers)
The fact only ONE cylinder is "black" shows they aren't performing equally.
Compare the 2 cylinders with each other. (don't worry too much about absolute numbers)
The fact only ONE cylinder is "black" shows they aren't performing equally.
What is the proper way to perform a compression check?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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