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Discussion Starter #1
Fired up my tractor, drove down to water my cherry tree. Left it running while with brake set and started watering tree. Tractor tuned off like I shut it off, not like it ran outta gas. Has plenty of gas/oil, battery measures good 0ver 13VDC and fuse is good.. I wrang out the switches (seat, brake, PTO) + they seem to be OK. Any suggestion? Anyone got a decent wiring diagram?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BTW, solenoid doesn't click, doesn't do anything. Lights don't work, but they haven't for awhile, that's another problem.
 

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Nobody? Additional info, engine cranks if I short the solenoid, but, engine won't fire. Always fired immediately before problem started. Seems like it's gotta be a problem with safety switches.
 

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I think that you need to use a meter and follow the path from the battery terminal onward, such as to the key switch, etc., to see where you're losing voltage. You might just have a dead battery - measure its voltage under load; without a load, the voltage doesn't mean much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think that you need to use a meter and follow the path from the battery terminal onward, such as to the key switch, etc., to see where you're losing voltage. You might just have a dead battery - measure its voltage under load; without a load, the voltage doesn't mean much.
Appreciate the reply. I'm thinkin since it cranked (but wouldn't start) when I shorted the solenoid, the battery, key switich etc, is good. But hey, if I knew it all, I wouldn't be here. I'm thinkin the safety switches ground the mag and if I'm not mistaken open the circuit to the solenoid. That would prevent if from cranking + prevent it from firing. PTO switch ohmed good, maybe the wiring? Wish I could just jump it all + go from there.
 

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I think you are on the right track, just have to find the switch or switches causing problems. Does it have an oil pressure switch? Could be the switches are good but came out of adjustment also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think you are on the right track, just have to find the switch or switches causing problems. Does it have an oil pressure switch? Could be the switches are good but came out of adjustment also.
Thanx for the reply. Don't think it's got a pressure switch but it does have a low oil sentinel. I can't find any decent schemeatics or I'd have this figured out in 5 min. The circuit is open to the solenoid coil + the magneto is grounded. So it won't crank( unless I jump the solenoid + it won't fire once I crank it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanx for the reply. Don't think it's got a pressure switch but it does have a low oil sentinel. I can't find any decent schemeatics or I'd have this figured out in 5 min. The circuit is open to the solenoid coil + the magneto is grounded. So it won't crank( unless I jump the solenoid + it won't fire once I crank it.
Thanx much, just what I'm lookin for! I'll go out in the morn + try again, this thing is KILLIN ME!
 

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If the mag is grounded, how can you be getting spark?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If the mag is grounded, how can you be getting spark?
I'm not, as I said, I can make it crank by shorting the solenoid but it won't fire. I went back out last nite with the help of the schematics + started wiring out wires. Since the solenoid wasn't engaging, I started by wringing from Batt + to pin B of the ignition switch. That's 12vdc in and I got natta, zippo, open. Goin back out this am, think I'll run a jumper to pin B of the ign switch + go from there. That does bypass the fuse, so it's strictly temp.
 

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Disconnect the ignition switch. If it has problems, such as coming apart internally due to 'whatever', you have removed it from reasons for the engine to fail to start. Look also for chafed wires, especially the kill wire that shorts the magneto output.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Disconnect the ignition switch. If it has problems, such as coming apart internally due to 'whatever', you have removed it from reasons for the engine to fail to start. Look also for chafed wires, especially the kill wire that shorts the magneto output.
tom
Yeah, I disconnected it to wring out that wire from batt + to pin B. The switch itself wrings out good according to the schematic detail. Like you said, I think I've got a prob in that mag kill crt. I'll be goin there next, when I'm done with my coffee. Already aggavated this am. My Frontier Comm internet never works. They sent me a new modem. The modem they sent operates on network 9696 and the startup sheet with password is for network 9600. You can imagine how that worked out. Thanx for the input.
 

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OK, she's runnin fine! As I thought, problem between batt + and ign switch. That schematic is wrong. The red wire doesn't just come of the solenoid + go to fuse, ampmeter, then switch. It goes all over the place. Had to cut all the tie wraps holding the harness in. Once I got it out I could see where the red wire was shorted + broken. Simply skinned it back + put a wire nut on it. It shorted up under the battery deck. Next time I'll just rpl the entire harness. Saw a new one here for $110 free shipping. AYP / Craftsman / Sears Wiring Harness No. 170238 | AYP / Craftsman / Sears Engine Parts | Lawnmower Parts | Discount Online Parts Hey, thanx much for all the help. Schematic was a life saver even if it was 100% accurate.
 
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