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Discussion Starter #341
New parts came in, all looks good and I may be able to make at least one good spare, need to hit the hardware store for some new blade bolts and washers, forgot those.
 

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Discussion Starter #342
Ok, question time. I went to TS, Napa, Richards, and Fastenall (which no longer sells individual) looking for grade 8 spindle bolts, closest I got was grade 5 at Ace. Should I.....

Re Use the Grade 8's
Use the Grade 5's
Order the correct ones?
 

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I would use the Grade 5 bolts. I think they are still a lot stronger than the aluminum spindle housings.
Cannon
 

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You wont break any grade 5 bolts on a riding mower...even grade 2 would be stronger than the die cast spindle housings..cars & trucks use mostly grade 5 bolts even on critical suspension parts...grade 8's sometimes can shear being harder and more brittle in some applications,the grade 5's have a little "give" so they will tend to bend before snapping..
 

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I would use the Grade 5 bolts. I think they are still a lot stronger than the aluminum spindle housings.
Cannon
100%. The ears break off the spindle housings before the bolts go; I've seen several.
That said, I doubt I'd get too worried about the bolt grade providing any kind of weak point.
 

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I try to use Grade 8, or at least Grade 5, whenever possible when replacing hardware on OPE, because I think it is less likely to rust and round off. Am I nuts?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #347
Nice day today so I got an early start after breakfast. Moved everyone out so to have some elbow room in the shop.
I ran the self-tapping bolts into the mandrills, then backed them out. Blew out the chips and use Anti-seize on them.
Manual calls for 27 – 35 ft-lb for the blade bolts, (I used the new grade 5’s) and torqued them to 32 ft-lb.
Top ¾ nuts were cinched with the impact. All ready to mount except for three deck pins, waiting on paint to dry on those.
 

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Discussion Starter #348
Deck installed and adjusted per the manual as good as I can get it. The abused deck and linkages are a little tweeked still. Next mowing will tell if I have more adjustment to do. Still need to install tail lights, wires are already run, just haven't found a pair that I like yet. RED is up next for a late winter re-fresh. I'll start a separate thread as this one is about ready for the archives.
 

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Discussion Starter #350
Seeing I am about to archive this thread, here is 7 - 1/2 Months in 4 - 1/2 Minuets.

 

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Discussion Starter #353
We did a maiden voyage to a local event. 6 - 7 mile round trip. He said it runs and drives great!
 

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Discussion Starter #354
Well, first real mowing today with the Craftsman Pro, I am impressed with this and myself! Mowed about an acre and a half and nothing fell off, squealed or leaked, and the cut was level, and minimal clippings on top and under the deck. I think the blades have something to do with this. Was very enjoyable!
 

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Discussion Starter #356
Had to use a "little bit" of choke to finish the yard. Here is what I am dealing with. It just seemed to start surging all of a sudden.

 

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If you can drain the carb bowl their is about a 95% chance it will run ok on re-start.
I have several lawn tractors Briggs engines and Kohlers and that happens to me quite often and I have clean fuel cans. Briggs engines are the worst.
I do not know just how the moisture gets into the carb bowl but it does.
I also have to do the same to my ATV every once in awhile.
The fuel additives into the gas tank don't help me in hot weather either after one starts surging.

I feel your pain, I started my JD 318 today and it was surging very bad. Was ok when I parked it few days ago.
I have to pull the top off the carb on that dog while it's still on the engine usually. Have to pull the manifold to get the carb off. I may try rigging a fuel hose into some alcohol to send to the carb bowl and see if it will burn the bowl moisture. If cleaning/draining out the bowl don't make it go I can usually use low pressure air or carb spray cleaner while the carb is still on the engine and get a good re-run.

I use the Briggs red fuel filter on gravity fed engines and the white one on fuel pump type engines.
The white one has a finer screen. But I still have to drain bowls quite often and I'm using non-ethanol gas. When little bit of moisture gets in a carb bowl of a small engine or ATV it just don't want to get burned on through the carb.

If you can try just draining the bowl first, instead of carb removal.

I just noticed that yours is the Kohler engine. Them carbs can be a pain to remove and i suspect is one of them Nikki's. On my Kohler I can use a thinned down end wrench and remove the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the Nikki bowl bowl to drain the carb.
Make sure the pintle valve in the after fire solenoid is retracting fully also.
 

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Discussion Starter #358
I am working on a second video, but instead of quick hit-N-miss fixes I think I'll be sourcing a carb kit or new carb. Video should be up shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #359
Thanks, before I start tearing the carb down I would like to have a new replacement.

 

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I'm with you, Larry. Get a rebuild kit in hand, then pull it apart and give it a thorough cleaning.

I've never had much luck with fixes-in-cans. I use Sea Foam as an additive, and it doesn't hurt to keep things clean, but it can't replace a rebuild in my experience.

Mike
 
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