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Deck is looking good! 65 and sunny?! It's 32 and freezing rain/snowing here. Sometimes I wonder why exactly I live here.
 

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Discussion Starter #322
Bummed out.... with the mandrills. New ones are only the shell, and not threaded. Manual calls for Item 30, p/n 157722 (Screw Thdrol Washer HD) not sure what that is. The older stile that I have ordered in the past comes complete and has threaded bolt holes. I am now thinking of tapping the old mandrills to the next size and using them. I'll need to order the rest of the mandrill parts (shaft, bolts, and bearings) later as the old ones are pretty beat up.
 

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Discussion Starter #323
Ouch! Parts still needed.

KIT.NUT.FLANGE 3 eaJacks
532139729​
$5.24​
Pully Driven 1 eaJacks
532136572​
$26.24​
Pully mandrill 3 ea
532173436​
$8.39​
washer spacer 3 eaJacks
532187690​
$2.09​
Screw 9eaJacks
584953901​
$2.09​
Shaft Arm W lower bearing 3 eaJacks
532137553​
$24.14​
Bearing 6024 3 eaJacks
532129895​
$7.34​
Felt washer 3 eaJacks
532153390​
$ 3.14
Bolt blade 3 eaJacks
532850857​
$ 2.09
Washer lock 3 eaJacksNLA
Washer blade 3 eaJacks
532140296​
$ 3.14
 

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On the old ones I would drill them out and use a bolt and nut. The spindles I have like that have a place on the underside to capture a nut. I think you would have a better chance of getting them back apart in a few years for the next "Refresh".
Cannon
 

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Larry, I have a set of those mandrills I saved off a 46 inch 3 blade deck. Tractor model 917,256600. They have broken mounting bolts in them but are mostly complete. I'll see if I can put my hands on them later today. Maybe you can use something off them, I doubt I ever will.
Cannon
 

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The three screws are 'tri lobed', not round. I think they make self-threading or tapping possible on an assembly line. Problem is they also allow for corrosion to set in making removal intact unlikely. At least from experience.
The 'tri lobular' bolts can be replaced with standard, or bore the holes to the next larger size, or use nut & bolt. I would not buy any tri-lobular bolts even if I could find them.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #327
I ordered the rest of the parts needed from a different site for 1/3 the cost. Still will see what I can salvage from the old spindles.

Items Ordered:

Item: RM80_11_743: LOCK NUT
Quantity: 3 Price: $3.18 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $3.18
Item: RM80_11_739: BEARING
Quantity: 3 Price: $7.47 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $7.47
Item: ROT9374: SCREW
Quantity: 9 Price: $7.20 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $7.20
Item: HSQ532173436: pulleys
Quantity: 1 Price: $13.11 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $13.11
Item: RM8091050: pulleys
Quantity: 3 Price: $20.97 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $20.97
Item: RM80_11_752_W: SPINDLE SHAFT(S285373)
Quantity: 3 Price: $24.75 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $24.75
 

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What's the magical other site???

Mike
 

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Too late now obviously, but it's best to leave those AYP spindle housings in place and just remove the spindles and bearings for service (unless a bearing has spun and hogged out the aluminum casting or something). Invariably, you'll break off one or more of the 5/16-18 self-tapping fasteners trying to remove them.

If you don't use the self-tapping fasteners when installing new spindle housings, you can just tap them to 5/16-18 as the hole is already the proper size for tapping. You can use standard 5/16-18 fasteners from the bolt jar to reattach. Maybe use some helical lock washers for peace of mind... ;)
 

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Thanks!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Too late now obviously, but it's best to leave those AYP spindle housings in place and just remove the spindles and bearings for service (unless a bearing has spun and hogged out the aluminum casting or something). Invariably, you'll break off one or more of the 5/16-18 self-tapping fasteners trying to remove them.

If you don't use the self-tapping fasteners when installing new spindle housings, you can just tap them to 5/16-18 as the hole is already the proper size for tapping. You can use standard 5/16-18 fasteners from the bolt jar to reattach. Maybe use some helical lock washers for peace of mind... ;)
Waiting on all the bits-&-pieces to come in to finalize my plan. I am thinking of tapping the old mandrills and using bolts on them and keep as spares. The new mandrills and parts will be installed, but after installing the self tapping bolts I'll try backing them out and apply anti-seize and tighten them back up. Not sure if tapping them first would be the best choice.
 

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Hoosier Daddy
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Not sure if tapping them first would be the best choice.
It's certainly faster to install the thread forming screws with an impact gun, and you don't remove any material from the housing. That said, I'm sure it would be plenty strong for its purpose either way, so I'd just tell people to do what works best for their situation. :)
 

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PSEP.BIZ .... Pat's Small Engine Parts.... I've purchased from them and been happy with the results, FWIW.

As far as tapping the bolt holes, one vendor sells the product with the bolt holes pre-tapped so you can just bolt things together using whatever you choose for fastener and lock-mechanism. (washer, loctite, thread locker, etc)
In ignorance, I removed both housings, and of course snapped the heads off of half the bolts. Duh. Only took them apart to clean and re-grease the bearings, nothing really wrong with them. Given my skill set at removing bolt remnants, I ordered two complete sets of housings. They were pre-tapped, and easy to install. New brake arms & pads and the thing was like new. Old rust removed and painted with anti-corrosion Rustoleum. Been a couple-five years now, so I suppose a good inspection and cleaning over winter should be put on the to-do list.
tom
 

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I haven't been on MTF in a long time. I guess I should peek a boo once in a while. I rebuild them almost daily. Complete rebuild kits are very inexpensive these days. Here's one on Ebay for $100.https://www.ebay.com/itm/303046495851
 

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Discussion Starter #336
Hopefully won't need it but I book marked the ebay listing also. Thanks. Parts from Pat's have shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Picked up some round stock to make the bar to hold the discharge chute bar.
 

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it's been a while but looking good larry. i havn't been on much just here and there. read through your topic this this morning. the cheap harbor freight plastic welder/wood burner is a nice little tool for the plastic fixes. i really recommend it. the track and cars are marx. the track is O27 which is the style and the curve should be O34 radius just in case you didn't know
 

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Discussion Starter #339
Discharge chute is attached. Was looking around for something to do today and realized I had the parts for RED's winter refresh still here. I tried starting him this morning and the battery is flat. Hulk II cranked right up. I think I'll pull the seat and seat pan off of RED and use it on the Craftsman Pro (I still need to name this one). RED won't need the seat for a while as I will be tearing him down as soon as I get the Pro's deck done and make some room in the shop. RED will be getting new steering bushings, rings and gaskets, coil pack and filters. Oh and a seat pan and new seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #340
Still waiting on deck parts. I emailed PSEP and asked for a status. In the mean time I decided to change the spark plugs. I pulled them and found Autolite 3924's. I checked the manual and it calls for Champion RC12YC. They look the same but I went with the Champion's and gaped to 0.030.
Weed whacked yesterday and got BOH ready to mow this afternoon.
 

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