Craftsman 917-27106??

Sorry about the delay, the last two digits are obliterated on the tag. It has a Kohler cv15s. It has a hydro. I have a schematic for 6 speed model of this tractor and some things are different.
The tractor had been running with a 20amp fuse since i picked up the tractor a few years ago. Yesterday when it stopped, i replaced the blown 20 and the tractor ran for about 5 minutes before blowing. I looked at the schematic for my 6 speed craftsman(sorry, i am at work right now and don't have the model number), which has the same motor as the one with the problem. That schematic indicates a 30amp fuse is required. I put in the 30amp, and it blew immediately.

This is what the engine tag read:
Family SKH426U1G2RB
CV15S
Spec: 41592
Serial #: 2907402283

By the way what is the OPR?
Thanks for your help!

The headlights only work when the engine is running. Since it won't start at all now I can't check is they worked before the last fuse blew.

Thanks for this information. Tractor is out in the yard where it stopped, and it is getting dark now. I will do as you advise first thing in the morning. Hope it will be a little cooler.90 degrees, and high humidity right now.

Ok, replaced 30 amp fuse and pulled the OPR with the red wire. Checked pins as you suggest. My multimeter scale is hard to read, but the needle goes all the way over to the right to the same position it reads when you touch the meter leads together. Mower did start without the OPR in , and the lights do work. Did not run it very long to see if the fuse would blow. What should i check next?

I don't see any diode. A number of wires come out of the motor and into a connector. Is the diode under the cover over the flywheel??

I took the flywheel cover off. No diode that i can see. Only the coil sits next to the flywheel.

Ok found the diode in the black wire coming from the stator, do i have to take the diode out of the wire to check it? I have to make up a 12 v test lite tonite and i will check that in the morning. Does the engine have to be running to do the 12 v lite checks?

Bill, i will have to wait until tomorrow to check this, it is just too hot to work outside today.10 am and the heat index is already over a 100. By the way where in "Orygun" to you live? My daughter is home ported in Newport OR on a NOAA survey ship.

Ok, i tested the diode allows current in one direction and not the other. I put a shunt in the seat switch. Then put the leads from my multi meter in place of the 30 amp fuse, this is what happens: Fuel solenoid disconnected and all three OPRS removed, turn the key to on and no current flows. Plug in the solenoid, and the meter reads 10v with no OPRS. Disconnect fuel solenoid and plug in one OPR meter reads 10v replace with another OPR again 10v as well with the last OPR. Plug in OPRS one at a time in sequence, and no difference in meter reading.

Just got back from town will run checks as you suggest. I did replace the ignition switch this spring. Thanks again for your help.

Well, back at working on this thing. Pulled ign switch checked continutiy across A1 and G needle on meter pegs all the way over, on start and lights position, nothing. Is this switch bad?

Well it looks like the switch is ok. What puzzles me is that the engine will run for a few minutes before the fuse blows. Wouldn't a dead short blow the fuse immediately? Could the starter or solenoid have some internal short? I did replace the solenoid when i replaced the ign switch this spring.

Pulled all of the OPRS this morning. Put in a 30 Amp fuse, motor started and fuse blew after about 30 seconds. Could there be something in the solenoid or starter?