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Gravely 2-wheeler
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I have two mowers, MTD w/B&S550ex and Husqvarna w/B&S625e, where the engine sump that is bolted to the mower deck is cracked on the upper surface from the outside of the flange near a mounting bolt towards the middle of the sump. They only have 3 or 4 mounting bolts which do not appear to offer enough support when the mower sees heavy use. These mowers are used in foot tall thick weeds with occasional hidden branches or rocks. The tall weeds are unavoidable since I can't keep up with mowing at this location and several areas are only mowed once every year or two. (A landscaping service mows the good lawns and I get the rest.) The one advantage of these mowers is that they are baggers which means a clean "lawn" after one pass. My Gravelys can handle the tall grass with no problem but then I have to rake to clean up.

Rather than replacing the sumps I am planning to clean and JB Weld the cracks and bring the total number of mounting bolts to 12 evenly spaced around the flange.
 

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I have two mowers, MTD w/B&S550ex and Husqvarna w/B&S625e, where the engine sump that is bolted to the mower deck is cracked on the upper surface from the outside of the flange near a mounting bolt towards the middle of the sump. They only have 3 or 4 mounting bolts which do not appear to offer enough support when the mower sees heavy use. These mowers are used in foot tall thick weeds with occasional hidden branches or rocks. The tall weeds are unavoidable since I can't keep up with mowing at this location and several areas are only mowed once every year or two. (A landscaping service mows the good lawns and I get the rest.) The one advantage of these mowers is that they are baggers which means a clean "lawn" after one pass. My Gravelys can handle the tall grass with no problem but then I have to rake to clean up.

Rather than replacing the sumps I am planning to clean and JB Weld the cracks and bring the total number of mounting bolts to 12 evenly spaced around the flange.
That is a very common issue on those newer Briggs. If you are mowing tall weeds, I would look at a wheeled string trimmer.
 

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JB weld won't work long term or maybe not even at all.
I have only seen damage or cracking on these when there is a blade strike.
I am not liking the new briggs ohv and don't expect them (I'm sure B&S doesn't either) to be around like the old L heads.
Had 4 old ones this week go back to customers running perfectly. Two 1999's and two 1995's.

These new ones clog up the carb easier(epa shares a lot of blame for this) have surging issues that don't always go away, have weaker crankcases, and I think they all have a plastic cam gear on the camshaft!!!

They are the easiest and shortest pull required to start ones I have ever seen just edging out the old Tecumseh easy start...
Typical!!! Market for user friendliness and fake or on paper features and NOT durability or longevity.
 

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I have two mowers, MTD w/B&S550ex and Husqvarna w/B&S625e, where the engine sump that is bolted to the mower deck is cracked on the upper surface from the outside of the flange near a mounting bolt towards the middle of the sump. They only have 3 or 4 mounting bolts which do not appear to offer enough support when the mower sees heavy use. These mowers are used in foot tall thick weeds with occasional hidden branches or rocks. The tall weeds are unavoidable since I can't keep up with mowing at this location and several areas are only mowed once every year or two. (A landscaping service mows the good lawns and I get the rest.) The one advantage of these mowers is that they are baggers which means a clean "lawn" after one pass. My Gravelys can handle the tall grass with no problem but then I have to rake to clean up.

Rather than replacing the sumps I am planning to clean and JB Weld the cracks and bring the total number of mounting bolts to 12 evenly spaced around the flange.
I have to say....even though the old mowers might have gotten by for a good long time mowing overgrown fields of foot tall weeds and rocks and sticks.....no mower is made for this.
Many people do use mowers as brush hogs and it's not really something any mower should be asked or expected to do.
 

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JB weld? No way, it will never hold. Poor design you just can't fix. Too bad they never made a cast iron vertical motor. But then I'd suppose the deck would start to crack. You can keep improving poor engineering but the weakest point will always win. :Disgus:
 

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I should also mention that Almost every puch mower uses 3 or 4 mounting bolts. Even the old 1960's lawn boys have only 4 mounting bolts, and I have never had an issue with them holding.
 

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Drilling more holes will only weaken it, there is not enough material. The three bolt system has worked well for many years, they are lawn mowers not brush hogs.
 

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I have two mowers, MTD w/B&S550ex and Husqvarna w/B&S625e, where the engine sump that is bolted to the mower deck is cracked on the upper surface from the outside of the flange near a mounting bolt towards the middle of the sump. They only have 3 or 4 mounting bolts which do not appear to offer enough support when the mower sees heavy use. These mowers are used in foot tall thick weeds with occasional hidden branches or rocks. The tall weeds are unavoidable since I can't keep up with mowing at this location and several areas are only mowed once every year or two. (A landscaping service mows the good lawns and I get the rest.) The one advantage of these mowers is that they are baggers which means a clean "lawn" after one pass. My Gravelys can handle the tall grass with no problem but then I have to rake to clean up.

Rather than replacing the sumps I am planning to clean and JB Weld the cracks and bring the total number of mounting bolts to 12 evenly spaced around the flange.
Why don't you just cut it down first with your gravely and then suck up the clippings with a push mower? To me that seems like the easiest solution.
 

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These engines will last a long time if properly used. My experience with them is if used for normal everyday use they are good. Broken sump flanges usually come from bent blades and or bent crankshafts. The crankshaft length is long and it does not take much to bend it if the blade strikes something. This causes excess vibration that works one or more of the bolts loose and eventually breaks the sump flange. Even blades that are straight but out of balance can do this. These are walk behind lawn mowers, not Army tanks. If you are going to be hitting water meter covers, drain culverts and bricks and large stones you can expect these problems.
 

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Hmmn mebbe 30$ for 2 basket case F series to keep the 10415 and 7073 going wasn't a dumb idea. after all. Plus I have a Toro 3 spd with a sick Tecumseh? and a great same engine and worn out 1 spd. on my back up LB I also have a Dura Force with the same 1 spd.. I have yet to break a LB or a Toro walk behind beyond repair. And in my early days learning, I was guilty of small engine abuse. Sheared a few keys chewed up blades ran w/o air cleaner. Bent cranks, etc. But for a thrown rod, I never cracked a case. That's just cheep. No wonder you don't need to change the oil. Thanks for heads up. I have some good quality old stuff. Built by Americans. My fellow baby boomers back in the 80's :D
 
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