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Discussion Starter #1
Ok while looking at the zirks between the engine and tranny I discovered a bigger problem. First off I bought the tractor in April of 2006. The rear zirk if I can turn it about 1/8 if a turn NP. The front one has the fitting coming out the center of the U-joint facing rear, problem is it's a straight fitting no way possible to get anything near it.
Now my problem the cooling fan only has one blade left on the fan, how hard is it to change these out. The one under the tractor for the transmission. Any and all help is recommended, I am very handy been a mechanical contractor my whole life.
 

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Theres been several who have had to replace the fans and I've looked in the search and couldn't find any of the threads about it. We need to have a sticky on this if anyone can find those threads. slkpk
 

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Thanks all that was quick. I found the one that describes the process.
I'm more worried about any damage I may have done since it could have been this way for a few months.
I will be changing the fluid and such when I'm done. And I will be looking into a skid plate also.

johnnydel29
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 33
MTF Member # 7231

Default 2035 Hydrstatic Cooling Fan - How We Replaced It
Hello all,

Some of you I recognize from the other tractor forum. I am new to this site and learning a great deal from from everyones threads.

I notice a few people had a cooling fan issue, a stick breaking the blades and the nightmare of trying to figure out how to replace it. This exact thing happned to me, and for those of you wondering how to replace it, here is what you need to do. A friend of mine, who is an experienced heavy equiptment mechanic helped me out.

First we removed the parts that the arms of mmm attach to (large gold bushing). Then we took apart the drive shaft by removing the split ring and knocking out the pin. Then we were able to access the fan, and remove the damaged one with a flexible rachet and replaced it with the new one. Then we put everything back together. It definitely helped having my friend help me out, he definitely has the expeirece and appropriate tools to make the job easier. It took about an hour or so.

Also keep in mind. Although powerful for its size, this is a JD 2305, not a JD 650 dozer.
Last edited by johnnydel29; 09-15-2007 at 09:19 PM.
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I just done mine on a 2210.I dont know how much different on the 2305 but it took me 2 1/2 hours to get to it because you have to take off the roll bar,fenders, floor pan, the cowl under the steering wheel remove the drive shaft.The fan is $25.00.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just done mine on a 2210.I dont know how much different on the 2305 but it took me 2 1/2 hours to get to it because you have to take off the roll bar,fenders, floor pan, the cowl under the steering wheel remove the drive shaft.The fan is $25.00.
Couldn't believe the fast turn around. Ordered mine on Thursday morning and got a call this morning it's in. $22.00.
Did you change the fluid since we have no idea how long it was broke. I am just to be safe it's been hot here this year and don't know if I could have damaged anything.
 

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Couldn't believe the fast turn around. Ordered mine on Thursday morning and got a call this morning it's in. $22.00.
Did you change the fluid since we have no idea how long it was broke. I am just to be safe it's been hot here this year and don't know if I could have damaged anything.
No I didnt I guess because mine holds about 3 gallons.Didnt think it hurt it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Started the change out of the fan today. There were two things that held me up, 1st was getting the mmm lift assembly out of the way that took nearly 45 minutes to remove and putting it back looks like it will be as difficult.
2nd was the roll pin on the fly wheel. I'm no mechanic but have never had a problem repairing anything mechanical but I've never seen a roll pin inside a roll pin is this the norm? The rear yoke going into the transmission is loose not like the front which I had to use a fork to get off should this be a concern in the near future?
Oh and got to grease the U-joints on the drive shaft and turn the fittings so it will be easier or possible the next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ok finished and I am confident the next time.LOL I could change out the drive shaft in less then an hour. The MMM bracket was easier then I thought just a brain cramp, and if I had known there was a roll pin inside a roll pin that would have cut time off.
Only had to modify one toll, the clip ring on the fly wheel was a bugger to get on. The pliers with the proper fit holes didn't open far enough, the one that opened far enough were to big to fit in the snap ring. I had to take the larger and file it down. Worked great. I do have some picture so let me give it a try.
As I said the rear yoke is a little loose and I get some movement in the D.S.is this normal?
Skid plate is the very next purchase!!!!
 

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Thanks for the tips, pics, and update. Glad it worked out for you. I have the Bro-Tek skid plate and like it. The other filter covers mentioned in previous posts have their benefits: you can leave the covers on with the MMM. I have to remove the skid plate when I attach my MMM... it's only a 2-3 minute ordeal, but still something to consider.
 

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Thanks for the tips, pics, and update. Glad it worked out for you. I have the Bro-Tek skid plate and like it. The other filter covers mentioned in previous posts have their benefits: you can leave the covers on with the MMM. I have to remove the skid plate when I attach my MMM... it's only a 2-3 minute ordeal, but still something to consider.
Yes I got the skid plate info from your sticky Already called just a little short right now but in the next month for sure. They wanted $212.00 I think it was. Worth it definitely. :thanku:
 
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