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Discussion Starter #1
Have a complete engine off an older unit that has the spring covered valve covers. I had heard that you can convert these to the new type of solid 1 piece covers so that you can use the cylinder on a lower assy that uses the 1 piece covers. Couldn't find anything on the search function here. anyone know what's involved with doing that?
 

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Daryl G
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aweiss44,
I, too, looked as I think this has been discussed earlier but I could not find anything... Something happened a while back and the search function on mytractorforum has been buggy ever since. Hopefully gravely1964 will see this and my money is that he can answer this question for you very quickly (so here is a free bump back up to the top of the current threads).
 

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How old is the tractor in question?
Saw on the GT Gravely parts site that they have two different base gaskets for the jug to adjust for the height using the spring type valve covers. And they also show the spring type covers only under the 5 hp engine section. Valve guides look different too. Maybe contact the GT guys or the other big parts dealer, Richard's.

I just got a set of single piece CI valve box units for a 1961 I am rebuilding and they appear to fit no problem. Originals were CI bottoms w/ aluminum uppers (where the side cover mounts). Also found interesting that the single piece units have an oil slot cut in the bore of the lifter and the two piece ones do not have any slots at all.
 

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Gravely1964
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aweiss44,
I, too, looked as I think this has been discussed earlier but I could not find anything... Something happened a while back and the search function on mytractorforum has been buggy ever since. Hopefully gravely1964 will see this and my money is that he can answer this question for you very quickly (so here is a free bump back up to the top of the current threads).
Basic things needed are the lifter assembles them selfs, and gaskets for them. Now you have to pull the cylinder and take the valve springs off to get old style ones off. And if you want to put old style on a new style for some strange reason the valve guides need changed im pretty sure. To let the covers go the whole way up. Or enlarge the holes. I think. Aint played with that in a few years honestly
 

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Really all you have to do is get a set of the new style valve plunger towers. The bottom gasket is the same , the top will take the large round gasket.

There are three different styles.

1- two piece aluminum, this is the first type

2- one piece cast iron without the slotted oil drain channel

4- one piece cast iron with a slot to allow oil to drain.




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Discussion Starter #6
Really all you have to do is get a set of the new style valve plunger towers. The bottom gasket is the same , the top will take the large round gasket.

There are three different styles.

1- two piece aluminum, this is the first type

2- one piece cast iron without the slotted oil drain channel

4- one piece cast iron with a slot to allow oil to drain.




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do the valve guides need to be swapped? I haven't looked too in depth at it obviously, sorry.
 

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Does anyone have a source for the aluminum covers? I've got several machines I'd like to upgrade (IOW, I don't care about keeping them completely original) and it would be great if I could find the parts that gravely used when upgrading.
 

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Does anyone have a source for the aluminum covers? I've got several machines I'd like to upgrade (IOW, I don't care about keeping them completely original) and it would be great if I could find the parts that gravely used when upgrading.


I think the aluminum ones are somewhat rare, every now and again they come up on eBay.


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You cannot use the old style valve guides with the newer style cast iron tappet housings, the upper closersure washer will not fit over the base of the old guides. There were a few upper closesure washers that would do that, but that was a long time ago and no longer available.

it is really time to change guides anyways, make sure you get a bronze guide for the exhaust side.

Raise a valve off its seat 1/4" and try to wiggle it side to side. Anything over five - six thousandths needs replacement.

Roger,
 

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You cannot use the old style valve guides with the newer style cast iron tappet housings, the upper closersure washer will not fit over the base of the old guides. There were a few upper closesure washers that would do that, but that was a long time ago and no longer available.



it is really time to change guides anyways, make sure you get a bronze guide for the exhaust side.



Raise a valve off its seat 1/4" and try to wiggle it side to side. Anything over five - six thousandths needs replacement.



Roger,


Thanks for setting us straight, my apologies for mistakenly assuming the valve guides would not be an issue. By chance would the two piece valve towers work with the old style guides?


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If you are talking about the early aluminum housings, those require the intermediate valve spring locators, those with openings to accommodate the base of the old valve guides.

In this photo, part number 74 is a new style Valve Spring Locator, it has a 5/8" I.D. to accommodate new style valve guides. I forgot the O.D. of the base of an old valve guide, it is seated against the underside of a cylinder casting, but it is MUCH bigger. The old style guide must be pushed out from the top because of the 'lip', the new style can be pushed out in either direction.

New valve parts.jpg

Can you drill out new style valve spring locators to fit old guides? I suppose so, but why save valve guides that are probably worn out? If you are trying to stick with a restoration, keep the old spring loaded guides...

Roger,
 
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