Allen, I don't have a Simplicity, but if I interpret your pic and comments correctly, that blade hole is much larger than the spindle's mounting. If a bolt and washer hold it on, it will still allow for a lot of shifting around under the load of cutting grass. The wear pattern on the surface of the blade implies that is happening.
In this pic of your pic, is the "slop" you described that gap where the red arrows point? If so there is something wrong here. You might check with a couple blade manufacturer web sites, designate your model, and see what the "correct" blades look like? Most will also have specs listed that will show both the size and shape of the blade mounting hole. It is also possible that if this is a used machine, that someone used incorrect replacement spindles and blades.
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I have had a bnch of different Simplicities, but not a Conquest, but that looks like an unusual configuration for the blade to be held on.....not being concentric, it appears to be out of balance, which will cause damage to the blade and the spindle...check this site for the manual and see if it offers any help
Manuals | Simplicity
Looking for Simplicity parts or manuals? Find an owners manual or parts list for your Simplicity product.www.simplicitymfg.com
not yet. i have the tractor manual, but not the mower deck. I will get it.Did you get a chance to download the manual and see if it has an explanation?
I will try to post pictures later. for now, I have found the manual which makes no mention of the difference in diameters between the hole in the blade and the shaft. I do have the hex and spring washers. The hex washer is flat, with nothing on one side to center the blade. The hex washer engages the hex on the shaft so it will not spin. The blade is the same size as the outside diameter of the washers, so you can center the blade in one direction by feel as you tighten it. the perpendicular direction is a guess. Once assembled and tightened, it does not appear to move. As I mentioned above, two of the spindles do not show significant signs of wear. One spindel does show wear as if the blade was twisting on it. Perhaps it was not assembled properly or tight enough at one time.Can you post a clear close up of the end of the spindle shaft without the blade? Might help to see how this all goes together. I'd think there should be a 3/4" shoulder machined into the spindle end to fill the blade hole, THEN the whole spring washer set up would make more sense. Otherwise, how on earth would anyone be able to center that larger blade on the shaft even if the spring washer were enough to hold it in place?
not yet. i have the tractor manual, but not the mower deck. I will get it.
I will try to post pictures later. for now, I have found the manual which makes no mention of the difference in diameters between the hole in the blade and the shaft. I do have the hex and spring washers. The hex washer is flat, with nothing on one side to center the blade. The hex washer engages the hex on the shaft so it will not spin. The blade is the same size as the outside diameter of the washers, so you can center the blade in one direction by feel as you tighten it. the perpendicular direction is a guess. Once assembled and tightened, it does not appear to move. As I mentioned above, two of the spindles do not show significant signs of wear. One spindel does show wear as if the blade was twisting on it. Perhaps it was not assembled properly or tight enough at one time.
It still seems that the blade will be out of balance without something to locate it better prior to tightening.
I will try to do more pictures later, but I do not think that will help. I expect you understand what is going on with only FLAT washers and two different sizes of holes.
Allen
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Your spindle is being ruined with the excess play, you may want to consider replacing the spindles and fastening hardware. If they were engineered with the option of this much play, they were poorly engineered IMO. If you do not want to replace the spindle and hardware, I would look for adding a spacer, bushing to fill the void, it would need to be 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD or .675 and .750. A piece of 3/4" OD tubing would probably work with an 1/8" wall thickness, cutting this on a stationary metal band saw should be doable or use a metal lathe would work. I don't think a Ridgid Pipe Cutter would work with so little material to work with.
CCMoe