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New member here! I just bought a 74 1614 with a loader. But the clutch pedal has about an inch of movement before it's fully engaged. I have not had a chance to crawl around on it yet so I thought someone here would have the answer before i try to figure out myself!
 

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The clutch on the Power King has no adjustment. What you have is what you got. The clutches are touchy and not much travel. You get used to it. Niether of mine has much travel and both work just fine. If it starts to slip, then you have problems (ie, worn disk). If it gets so that you cannot disengage, then you have a snap ring that let loose. The clutches in these tractors routinely last 20 to 30 years with regular use.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I was guessing you could feather the clutch but I guess not! I'll live with it for sure! I'm sure I'll have several more questions as time goes by!
 

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You'll love it. Mine is a real work horse. I have the same as you but mine is a 1981 1614 with an Economy FEL. Your's looks to be after market but it looks really good. I don't know what I ever did without mine. It's not the fastest machine out there but it sure does the work.
 

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I almost forgot, with some practice you can feather the clutch to an extent. It's not totally impossible. I've owned PKs for about 18 years so I've had plenty of practice.
 

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So I guess the actual (only) adjustment would be how deep/shallow you slide the pressure plate assy/hydraulic pulley on the crankshaft towards the transmission?? i'm experiencing this problem myself currently. Just put a reman engine on my 2414.....can feel a like movement in the pedal, but not enough to engage into a gear......so tell me if you can....what we plan to do is slide the pressure plate/pulley assy deeper on the shaft towards th transmission until we get some play w/ the pedal?
 

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Electrician
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So I guess the actual (only) adjustment would be how deep/shallow you slide the pressure plate assy/hydraulic pulley on the crankshaft towards the transmission?? i'm experiencing this problem myself currently. Just put a reman engine on my 2414.....can feel a like movement in the pedal, but not enough to engage into a gear......so tell me if you can....what we plan to do is slide the pressure plate/pulley assy deeper on the shaft towards th transmission until we get some play w/ the pedal?
That flywheel/pressure plate needs to slide onto the engine crankshaft all the way until it comes up against the snap ring that is in it. That is your adjustment. Any other position will render the clutch out of adjustment. Make sure the snap ring isn't broken or missing and get to slide in there smoothly and tighten the set screws. One set screw has to go into a dimple in the crankshaft the other set screw tightens up against the keystock that holds the flywheel in place. Then you can check all your throw out arms and springs to make sure they are ok. Sometimes the pins for those arms break or the springs fly out.
 

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Electrician
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ok, thanks...in case I would need that snap ring...what size is it to tell the local NAPA guy?
Well, its an internal snap ring and I'm not sure of the exact size but you'll have to remove the flywheel again regardless to find out if it's still in there, so just bring the whole thing in and they can remove it with snap ring pliers and size it up.
 

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Electrician
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Electrician
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another question.....the orginial fuel tanks for the Power Kings, are they are the same? I have a 2414 if it matters........
It depends on the year. The long hood models 73 and up have the same tank. 72 and down tractors with the short hood use a different tank, and the much earlier ones use an L shaped tank.
 

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Reviving an old topic... I prefer that to starting a new one.

My PK 1614 broke a shift fork in the tranny, probably due to my father-in-law long time use of the PK with a clutch problem... lots of raking, grinding, etc. The clutch pedal never did move much at all when I occasionally used it. I had a bit of an issue separating the tranny from the engine, but that got resolved with help from the fine folks here.

Now that I have it all apart... the throwout arm or Y-shaped piece that contacts the ears on the throwout bearing has significant wear on the tips - I am guessing that is why the clutch pedal no longer seemed to have much effect. The wear on the throwout bearing ears isn't too bad (yeah, I need to try to measure it).

So, what are my options? Replacement of the throwout arm, P/N 03-7501?

Thanks,

W-E
 

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I was having issues with the clutch on mine last fall. When I took it apart I just decided that the TO bearing and fork would both get replaced. It's not much more work to do the fork once you have it apart for the TO bearing.

Mine was worn unevenly so it was difficult to disengage. Do it right once....
 
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