My Tractor Forum banner

Clutch adjustment and how to change brake pads

7921 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Big-o
I have what I THINK is a 1997 model 46379 Garden Tractor (no sticker) B&S is a 96. Can anyone give me a Service Manual post on the proper way to change brake pads and also maybe a parts drawing/list of the way everything is supposed to be setup behind the arm that attaches to the spring. I think I am missing a piece that is behind the arm that will push the two little plungers in, I am not sure if the arm does it or if something is missing. Also I need the proper way to adjust the clutch. The problem I have is when I am on a hill, I don't know if it is the brakes or clutch but when I stop it will hold itself in place but I can't change gears at all and that is not good when you are in a tight place pointed uphill grill almost against a fence and cant shift to reverse. It works fine on level ground and there seems to be a lot of slack in the belt when the brake is set. I have adjusted the brakes by the post BBY sent me and then took everything apart and cleaned everything up but still not good brakes going downhill and will bind up the shifter when I stop going uphill. Thanks in advance to everyone.


1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Page 3 and 4 of this thread have photos of the underside of our tractors with detail of the idler linkage "clutch" and brake application spring.

From the sounds of things you are "gear binding" when you stop and the transaxle is not shifting because of load being held against the gears when the brake is applied. Try releasing the brake/clutch pedal just enough to release the brake but not engage the idler and shift gears. Works for me, but then again I am certifiably nuts.

Exploded view drawings for your mower are here:
Thanks. I have a new set of pads ordered. From the looks of the pictures there is nothing behind the brake arm, so I guess mine is right. I wish the parts drawings would show a breakdown of the rotor pads and everything so I could make sure whoever had this apart last, put it all back the wright way. I will give the easing out on the clutch and then shifting a shot tomorrow. Thanks again.
I say use the fence to stop!:Stop: Drag your feet, is always a good way to slide to a stop,too. You should get at least half of a summers wear out of your shoes!
When you go down the hill pick a gear ex. 2nd and the engine will keep you at the same speed unless you hit the clutch then you go faster.
I think I have solved the problem. Whoever had the brakes apart last put the brake arm on backwards. Thanks Rog02 for the thread that showed the pictures. I cant seem to find A owners manual or Service manual online anywhere for my model #. So everyone here is saving the day for me. THANKS VERY MUCH
Glad you got it worked out. Looking foward to that Murray working the land..........
Note: That brake arm must have the section that is bent into a vee shape, mounted so the pointed part points toward the back wheel. When you step on the brake pedal, when the brake arm turns, the raised pointed brake arm will push in the two little pins, and they then push in the brake pad, to contact the disc brake. There should be a thin metal piece, same size as the brake pad, to keep the little pins from breaking the brake pad. It goes between the pad and the housing. Keep the brake assembly well lubricated.
I am pretty sure I have this problem solved. I still don't have great brakes but it will stop and shift now. I will install the new pads this weekend and give a update after that. I am just spoiled about being able to have a service manual on things I work on, but heck I am enjoying figuring everything out on this with the help of all the great people here. I am out of work for the first time in 29 yrs so I figure I can do some things around the house and a few things that make me happy, like getting this GT up and going so when I do go back to work I don't have to worry about it. LOL GT on a budget as I guess you have all figured by now. But I am happy about the way it is all going and that is all that matters for now. I do intend to do a ground up restoration at some point but for now all my little things like headlight covers have to do, and you never no there may be a lot of people out there that don't need the lights or cant afford the $$ for the lenses but still want there mower/GT to look like they have them. I have a 60 in zero turn industrial mower to do the grass, but this is all about the garden and the way thing are going with this GT I am way more happy than all the high $$$ things I have bought in the past.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.