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Retired - Veteran Mod
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Discussion Starter #1
1. Draining the fluid. There are 3 drains for the common transmission/hydraulic/differential fluid sump (under the rear axle, under the hydraulic pump and under the transmission). There are 3 drain plugs, but only one reservoir.
2. After you've drained out about as much as will come out, put the drain plugs back in and pour in about 2-3 gallons of diesel fuel. Open the inspection covers on both sides of the tractor and reach in... use your fingers and/or a parts cleaning brush to loosen all of the accumulated sludge in the bottom of things... Stir it all up real well.
3. Open the drain plugs (in the order listed above) and drain out the 'dirty' diesel.
4. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes, or so, then pour the diesel BACK into the reservoir (after replacing the plugs, again) stopping before the settled sludge pours out, and repeat steps 2 and 3.
5. Do this 4, 5, even 6 times (until you've got most of it out) then put the plugs in for good, put your gaskets on your inspection covers, and pour in your 5 gallons (really about 4½ gallons) through the one filler plug on top of the transmission shifter. You can determine the 'proper' fill level by leaving the bottom bolt out of one of your side inspection covers... and fill until the oil starts to run out of that hole.

You should use GL-1 specification oil (90wt Mineral Oil) in the Ford N tractors. Personally... I get mine at Tractor Supply... this is what their 2 gallon bottle looks like.


 

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48 8N Daddy
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168 Posts
Kerosene works the same?
 

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Retired - Veteran Mod
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. Kerosene will work the same.

I used diesel... because that's what I had (and it was CONSIDERABLY cheaper than kerosene... back then...)
 

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3,268 Posts
I would like to add to Steve's item #5 about overfilling. It takes time for the heavy oil to move from one section to the next so give it a little time to equallize. Sometime people get inpatient when they don't see it right away on the dip stick or coming out of the cover hole and figure in needs some more so they add more and then when it does equallize it's overfilled. Of course this should be done on as level ground as possible.

Kirk
 

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Retired - Veteran Mod
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Discussion Starter #5
Good point, Kirk.

That's why I left this thread open... to make sure that I didn't give any bad advice... or leave anything out. :fing32:

Thanks...
 

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229 Posts
Any additives recommended? I can't help but think a moly additive would help things wear better - or is this "fixing" a problem that doesn't exist?
 

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48 8N Daddy
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168 Posts
mine is a 1948, if it hasn't worn that bad yet, I probably won't use additives. Thanks guys, if you ever need help with a modern softtail (harley) let me know!
 

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Old Iron 1%er
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873 Posts
It's pricey, but the wear rate when using synthetics is reduced. Some may disagree with me, but I wouldn't mind mixing (same brand, same viscosity) synthetic with some 'dino' juice to save some expenses while getting some of the benefits of synthetic. (this is how they make 'semi-synthetic' oil)
 
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