Choke and Throttle Cables
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If the cable has a plastic outer jacket there are lube kits you can buy to push oil down them. I use Marvel Mystery Oil.
For the ones that don't have the jacket I prefer to oil them every year with motor oil. Keeps them from rusting up and sticking.
Mike
For the ones that don't have the jacket I prefer to oil them every year with motor oil. Keeps them from rusting up and sticking.
Mike
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1,044 Posts
They probably have some kind of lube on them from the factory. I would try and see how they do first.
I lubed my old ones this season and was plagued with the infamous "throttle walk down" that has been discussed here in the past.
When at full throttle, the lever will gradually walk back down to a lower RPM after I lubed them, Probably due to the vibration of my one lunger Kohler.
If you find your machine doing this, find a small flat rare earth magnet and lay across the dash under the throttle lever, it will hold it at full for you with no problem after that.
I lubed my old ones this season and was plagued with the infamous "throttle walk down" that has been discussed here in the past.
When at full throttle, the lever will gradually walk back down to a lower RPM after I lubed them, Probably due to the vibration of my one lunger Kohler.
If you find your machine doing this, find a small flat rare earth magnet and lay across the dash under the throttle lever, it will hold it at full for you with no problem after that.
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670 Posts
Thanks for the tip. Mine has really been ******* me off. Mine stays at WOT for about 10 seconds without something crammed in there to stop it from sliding.
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149 Posts
Mad Mac is going to help me replace my choke and throttle cables tomorrow. The throttle cable I have has had the rivet drilled out and a fiber washer/bot/locknut have been installed in its place. I think this should take care of any throttle walk!
As for lube...I use a product called sail-kote on my hobie cat sailboat but have used it on many other items such as throttle cables and it works great.
:woohoo1:
As for lube...I use a product called sail-kote on my hobie cat sailboat but have used it on many other items such as throttle cables and it works great.
:woohoo1:
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670 Posts
Really. I had my battery out a few minutes ago when I was in the shop and can see the lever sets right in front of me but I can't see how you could get a drill in there without taking them out.
Give me the secret. :trink40: Pics would be nice to.
Take a hacksaw blade and saw on the rivet, once it`s halfway through, grab it with a pair of ***** and peel the head off.
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670 Posts
:thanku:
I'm fixing it first thing before I mow in the morning. :thThumbsU
I'm fixing it first thing before I mow in the morning. :thThumbsU
My 448 throttle cable was OK until I lubed it, and the slipping got worse after I repowered with a P218 Onan. The throttle creeps back to about 2,800 RPM and stops there. I have a metal block that I put in the throttle lever hole to keep it at WOT. When not in use it hangs on a piece of chain looped around the steering sleeve. Having been a boat and later an aircraft meck I have dealt with lots of cables. I had installed a clamp on my 448 throttle cable to increase friction but the cable outer coil opened up defeating the purpose of the clamp. The clamp is a device intended to squeeze the outer casing to cause an increase in friction, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't.
Two years ago I got involved in a boat project and removed the hydraulic controls and replaced them with push/pull cables. It was a flybridge boat with dual station and twin diesels so there was lots of hydraulic stuff to remove and then snake the cables thru. The cables were large marine type and they were prelubed at manufacture.
Some folks put a kink in the cable to increase friction but I am not in favor of doing that. If any of you folks have done cable replacement on MerCruiser Inboard/Outboard units you know the heartburn that you can get into with kinked cables.
Bob Mac in CT
raying::banghead3:177::fam32::bump9:
Two years ago I got involved in a boat project and removed the hydraulic controls and replaced them with push/pull cables. It was a flybridge boat with dual station and twin diesels so there was lots of hydraulic stuff to remove and then snake the cables thru. The cables were large marine type and they were prelubed at manufacture.
Some folks put a kink in the cable to increase friction but I am not in favor of doing that. If any of you folks have done cable replacement on MerCruiser Inboard/Outboard units you know the heartburn that you can get into with kinked cables.
Bob Mac in CT
raying::banghead3:177::fam32::bump9:
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149 Posts
Mad Mac strikes again! The new cables are installed and working great. :thanku::thanku::thanku:
I will let you know how the throttle holds after my next leaf collection escapade!
I will let you know how the throttle holds after my next leaf collection escapade!
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149 Posts
bggb29,
The previous owner of my 1980 446 made it quite easy for me to change the cables......he cut an access panel in the tower! :fing20: Yes he cut a panel out..luckily I have the piece he cut out...:banghead3: it has the serial number plate attached to it! I believe to do the job correctly you would have to pull the battery and probably the hyraulic tank.
The previous owner of my 1980 446 made it quite easy for me to change the cables......he cut an access panel in the tower! :fing20: Yes he cut a panel out..luckily I have the piece he cut out...:banghead3: it has the serial number plate attached to it! I believe to do the job correctly you would have to pull the battery and probably the hyraulic tank.
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1,044 Posts
Radio shack used to sell them, just do a google search and you should find some vendors.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rare-earth_magnet
It is a type of magnet that uses a different set of elements that yields a very strong magnet in relation to it's size.
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369 Posts
Even better - find on old PC and yank the hard disk. Take it apart. There's one at the base of the arm. It's probably even in a steel holder that you can modify for mounting it. Amazingly strong. I have a half dozen of these laying around just to play with from taking apart old disks.
(FYI, physical destruction of the platter in an old disk is the only 100% guaranteed way to protect any personal info that may have been on it. It's amazing how many people will toss or trade in old machines and leave passwords, bank info, etc, on them.)
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2,208 Posts
tom.
the cables you pur. from me were the same thing.
the p.o. cut a big hole in the dash.
boomer
the cables you pur. from me were the same thing.
the p.o. cut a big hole in the dash.
boomer
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149 Posts
Boomer...that sure makes it easier to get at them but not something I would do.
The cable worked great.:fing32::thanku:
The cable worked great.:fing32::thanku:
Being in IT I have plenty of access to old hard drives. Found this youtube video on getting the magnet off
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zXLWWNzt4c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zXLWWNzt4c
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